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  1. S

    Nightstor 120 Tomer

    There are 3 pins that connect to a live feed, the connection between one of those pins and the green board had broken. Which I think is called a joint, though I may well be wrong. Most of the credit goes to Tony from HES and my wife; I just worked a multimeter by phone instruction :D
  2. S

    Nightstor 120 Tomer

    A quick update for ProDave and anyone that may encounter the issue: I'd emailed HES (the company that sells the replacement timer) to ask about the ETA on delivery, and a nice man called Tony emailed back and said when it arrives he's happy to talk me through installation and basic...
  3. S

    Nightstor 120 Tomer

    I have since discovered that a 5A fuse was dead. I've changed it, and now when I turn the unit on I hear a gentle whirring sound (which I'm sure I used to hear before anyway, fan?) but those wires are still not live and the heating doesn't come on :(
  4. S

    Nightstor 120 Tomer

    You are correct sir, there is no current at all between the blue/brown wires. I must have blown a fuse, hopefully not the whole board :( I'm very grateful, I'll call the electrician now. Remind me to never touch stuff like this again.
  5. S

    Nightstor 120 Tomer

    I have a multimeter, does that help?
  6. S

    Nightstor 120 Tomer

    Yes a typo. Here's what happens with every configuration suggested, including Blue-Brown swap and 2/4: I switch the nightstor on and it does its usual clicks, and that's it. I know it's stored over night, so it should turn on. The thermostat is on the highest too, to make sure he radiators come...
  7. S

    Nightstor 120 Tomer

    No luck :( I should mention that the wires naturally rest as Blue Brown Brown Red, so trying your suggestion I had to cross the blue and brown, to connect then to U1 and U2 as you mention, which makes me think it wasn't the way it was before. Rough diagram of what they would rest against...
  8. S

    Nightstor 120 Tomer

    The brown ones are linked, yes. The middle terminal (1) is silver coloured, the rest bronze. Um. They've all got scratches on them cos I tried various combos :( Ps, is it me or does the forum give an error every time you post?
  9. S

    Nightstor 120 Tomer

    The five terminals are labelled, from left to right: 2 4 1 U2 U1. There's a diagram on the timer that has the 2/4/1 ones connected like an M, and U2/U1 connected with an M in a circle between then. There are 4 wires out of the control panel: blue, brown, brown, red. Hope that makes sense.
  10. S

    Nightstor 120 Tomer

    Thanks. I won't order a digital one just yet. We don't use the timer function at all, just lower the thermostat at night and up again in the morning. It's just the ticking noise in the utility room is annoying. Would it help if I post descriptions of the wiring, or just wait until I've got ten...
  11. S

    Nightstor 120 Tomer

    Ok a relief thank you! I thought that perhaps having it on 'on' rather than 'program' bypasses the timer :P I'll wait until I can post the pictures! I might just also order the digital timer anyway.
  12. S

    Nightstor 120 Tomer

    Ah, I see. Yes I saw that digital one as I was searching for a solution (and found this forum!) I'm not sure if the unconnected timer is stopping the heating from coming on as such, or if I've created a different problem :(
  13. S

    Nightstor 120 Tomer

    Dear all, I'm not an electrician, I'm a humble home owner who's now very scared of his wife. Let me tell you why. Our trusty Nightstor 120 is fine, however the old analogue clock/timer makes a really annoying squeeky noise. So, yours truly decided to take it out and give it a clean. I did...
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