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  4. SPECIAL LOCATION

    Extend Christmas Lights

    So.… you have a length of lights that can reach every where you want it to... But there is a length in the middle where you want no lights..... ? how about just tape round the unrequired LEDs... Or are there too many? Or you may get away with snipping the heads of the surplus LED's... I'm pretty sure sets of LEDs aren't like the oldie worldie Xmas Tree lights where one dead bulb can kill the whole set. If you do cut the wires... I wouldn't worry too much about weather proof boxes.. Its only 31volt so probably get away with a decent wrap of tape around any joints.. without too much danger. Does this light set have a massive long bit of cable between the PSU and the first light..? If yes... could you cut a length off this part to snip and join into the bit you need extending?? Notwithstanding all the above.. It still may be just too much faff and effort...
  5. AndrewK

    Extend Christmas Lights

    Thanks for the replies. Doc H. I’m not sure is the answer to your question. There’s a twisted pair of wires + a singe wire that links each LED but i can’t answer your questions which is perhaps indicative i should leave it as is. Buying the correct length of cable isn’t really an option as there are several different sizes required. I cant help but feel there’s some money to be made in selling Xmas lights in attachable strips so that a) you can replace them if faulty b) you can plan your exact requirements.
  6. Tony S

    How wrong can you be ?

    I struggle with life, we have to get on with it!
  7. Paul2129

    Night rate / meters question

    thanks for your comments guys, hopefully can get something sorted out and working
  8. thanks for all answers.. appreciated
  9. Doc Hudson

    Extend Christmas Lights

    How many conductors are there between the individual LED's? Your description refers to a chaser function, which generally means they are not just parallel connections to each lamp and there can be more than a single pair of conductors making up the arrangement. You will need to be sure you don't cross them over altering the polarity further up the chain. I am not 100% convinced that you wont have any problems with some of the lights looking dimmer further down the run with longer cables (higher resistances) part way down. It may work, but may be quicker and less time consuming to just buy some smaller sets of lights. Doc H.
  10. Sidney

    Extend Christmas Lights

    I'd solder and use heat shrink. Those LED cables don't normally contain a lot of copper so I'd probably strengthen each joint with a short length of cable to take the strain.
  11. Sharpend

    Extend Christmas Lights

    Heat shrink crimp joints might do it.
  12. Geoff1946

    Extend Christmas Lights

    There is no electrical reason you can't do as you suggest, but it will be difficult to have connections which are physically strong and waterproof. Any flexible cable of similar weight to the original would be OK, say speaker flex that is readily available or some lightweight mains flex. I can't think of a waterproof junction box which would be suitable though; someone else may suggest something. If I was going to do it I would solder the wire joints and insulate with self vulcanising rubber tape.
  13. It would be virtually twice the power ...for 2 seconds ..before it blew up , I'd say . If it was a light bulb from the US it would glow very brightly ...and then it would explode . (Possibly like the present President)
  14. AndrewK

    Extend Christmas Lights

    I bought a few sets of Icicle Christmas lights from Amazon. They're great however much longer than i need for each apex on my house. I end up pulling the lights from apex to apex which looks a bit strange since in between apex's you have these floating icicles dropping down from thin air. Anyway, my question is, can i cut the wires between LED's and extend the circuit (with no led's) between apex's? Effectively i'd increase the length of the circuit by joining each LED section by cable. If so, which type of outdoor cable should i use along with connectors and outdoor junction box? Output on the transformer reads 31V=193mA 6W Can't post the URL but description is below which should make them easy to find on amazon if interested. Vivo© 480 White LED Christmas Icicle Lights with 8 Mode Chaser Function, Remote Control and Hard Plastic Carry Storage Box Indoor Outdoor Xmas Mains Powered with Memory Function - FNF1604 Thanks in advance.
  15. Geoff's answer is the True Dumbed down option.. But slightly less dumbed down..... For anything to perform any work you need a force or pressure to make it work.... The voltage is like the pressure to make the electrical thing work.. Everything that is manufactured is designed to work within a particular specification.... No point over-engineering something to work outside of the range it is designed to work at, that just makes it more expensive to buy.. So consider a few things.. Car tyres have maximum Load (KG), Speed (MPH), and pressure (bar/psi) they are designed for.... A wind turbine has a max windspeed it can withstand for normal use... An Ikea bookshelf has a max weight it can carry... A Lift in a tower block has a max weight(persons) it can carry.. Outdoor devices have different levels of moisture they can withstand (rain - drop to submerged).. A children's sleeping bag is designed for a certain size of person inside it.. An electric shower has a min & max water pressure it will operate at... etc.. etc... What do you think happens if you use any of these in an environment that is double or more what it is designed for..? Simple.. it will break or be significantly damaged to reduce its usefulness... All supply voltages fluctuate and vary over time so all appliances have a min-max tolerance they will work to.. But if you are trying to work something on double or half what it is designed to work at, don't expect a happy result.
  16. SPECIAL LOCATION

    GDPR and certification

    I think you could well find you have got this all a bit arse about face, and mixed up, back to front, and stored in the wrong toolbox..... (or something like that.) i.e... Where have you read any law or document that states a business cannot store any form of customer data for the purposes of its normal daily duties? From what I have read and understand the key points of GDPR relate to "THE PROCESSING" of data... and how you securely store any relevant data that you do keep.. Keeping a hard copy or electronic copy of an invoice or electrical certificate for the normal everyday functions of your business is an essential requirement to allow your business to continue trading. BUT... Processing that data for marketing purposes... or selling that data to third parties…. or leaving it open to unauthorised access.... Are NOT essential business requirements and without consent allowing you to process someone else's data you are in breach of their rights and GDPR.. e.g. Any data you do hold must be securely stored to prevent any unauthorised persons access to that data.. But there are NO fixed time limits, as an individual business may have different requirements around how they use their customer data.. Consider the following:- 1/ Last week I fitted an LED floodlamp with a quoted manufactures warranty of 5years.. so need to keep records of installation date/purchase date invoice ref etc.. for at least 5 years in-case Mr customer rings up saying it has gone faulty.. 2/ What happens if we get another manufactures recall due to exploding MCB's or the such like.. But you've binned all records of what jobs you've done or what was fitted where ???????? 3/ I am in progress doing the wiring for an extension at one of my old customers... Originally did work for them in June 2000... Over the 17+ years I have done 15 various jobs for them... But that fact that I have records of previous jobs and the circuit arrangements makes it all easier for me and the customer... etc... etc.... etc.... etc..... There are loads of similar such scenarios that make storage and retrieval of data essential to the smooth running of businesses large & small.. BUT all companies MUST ensure data they hold is only accessible to relevant authorised staff and not the general pubic.. AND you must ensure data is not stored on easily accessible or hackable devices … Or just left lying around where anyone can pick it up!!! Also there must be a named person who is ultimately responsible for storage, security and use of any customer data.. So there is a traceable responsibility path in the event of a data breach!! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General_Data_Protection_Regulation#Lawful_basis_for_processing I have a printed document and a page on my Website stating the data usage and protection procedures adopted by my business...... It's worded as follows...
  17. Evans Electric

    GDPR and certification

    Or you could wait 7 yrs then dump them with your tax records . Its a good question though ...Data retention by Electrical Contractors .....I have no idea to be honest ! Whats on mine ? I hold addresses of notified domestic work carried out . ( Dating back to the Old Testament ) I hold invoices dating back 7 yrs . I hold some historical quotes that could be deleted. I hold some photos of jobs at various stages . I hold some data on a printing works we look after . ( New 300A supply etc) And theres the photos of Miss Sweedy ..but we've all got those !!
  18. Hi GHLT , although you are most welcome here ..do you realise this is a UK Forum ? There are a few differences between our electric systems which can cause confusion . But here goes . Follow the logical progression back from the light ...you say theres no power there but the breakers are all on .. so is there power at the switch , does the switch work properly ? Is there a night time sensor in the circuit ? Although the breaker is ON . is it passing current ? Had any workmen in who may have damaged the cables . ? Is your tester functioning OK ? Henderson , Nevada . Thats not where Johnny Cash used to live , right ?
  19. Last week
  20. I have a porch light that was working nicely but stopped working suddenly. I checked the power supply and found no AC power at the light connection. I checked all the breakers and everything is in oder. I am not sure what cause the sudden lost of power at the junction box. Any suggestions as to what I should do next?
  21. If it does not melt, it will produce 1600W of heat. But it is most likely not designed for that so something will melt or burn out. In this case watts = volts squared divided by resitance. Resistance won't change.
  22. kerching

    How wrong can you be ?

    We are on 54°N F expensive and even more reliable
  23. itll get hot enough that it melts the heating element then itll give out no heat
  24. My reason for wanting to know this is a bit random so I won't explain. But lets say I have an electric heater sold in the US (where their houses are 120v) that says on the box its 400W. If i plug the same heater into a wall outlet in the uk with 240v supply will it be more than 400W?? If you could explain how/why dumbed down (alot) that would be really helpful. Thanks for reading.
  25. I would say you need a knowledgeable boiler person, but if it works for hot water why would it be the flame detector? If you are going to play guess the fault, then is the pump running? That is needed for CH but not for hot water, (at least on my boiler that's the case).
  26. Evans Electric

    GDPR and certification

    As Sharpie says . I presume all the LBC,s with their .... what must be huge data bases now , full of Mrs Jones , 5 Everyman St ....installed two sockets 23 /10/2000 by Sharpend Electrical etc . will be deleted on a daily basis . The warranty , which is ,, I believe , issued by the Scams ( as most sparks ignored them) holds the contractor to that job for 6 yrs , if he,s dead or gone bust or retired I presume the scam undertakes correcting say , faulty work. I've noticed with houses being sold that have our Installation or EICR certs attached to the deeds are being pooh-poohed and buyers are getting their own , new inspections made .
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