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  2. probably a loose connection somewhere
  3. Today
  4. Hi Everyone I work in a building in Hammersmith in London which has several circuits in it where each circuit has its own trip switch in the fuse box. Approximately three or four times a month, we get a sub-second power outage which only effects some of the circuits in the building and it does not cause any of the switches in the fuse box to trip. This causes our server and another computer on the same circuit to restart but the other computers in the building and the lights remain switched on. Does anyone here know what could be causing these sub-second power outages and what can be done to stop them? Thank you very much.
  5. Yesterday
  6. boltonsparky

    Fuse Box Replacement

    If you can post some pictures on here members should be able to asses the IP rating problem. Interesting your original guy says it's ok but the EICR says it isn't. You shouldn't really have IP issues on a metal CU, unless the cable entry knock outs haven't been done right. For reference the top surface should be IP4X (no gaps larger than 1mm) anywhere else should be IP2X (no gaps larger than 12.5mm).
  7. Thanks for the update but what happens next?
  8. Hi thanks for all the advice on this so far it is really appreciated. The electrical installation condition report cost 147+vat. It failed on 4.3 condition of enclosure in terms of ip rating and 4.5 enclosure not damaged or deteriorated do as to impair safety. After a bit of chasing we managed to get the following detail from the company that completed the survey "it was made unsatisfactory due to access to live parts over the index rating". Its a metal box which im told was OK at the time it was put in and its housed in purpose built wooden cupboard in the living room. We used this large company as our original electrician was busy at the time. Thanks Dale
  9. We lived in a static caravan while doing our self build. It had a 10kW instant gas water heater that ran the shower but to be frank the flow rate at a decent temperature was pretty poor, allowing for efficiency of the gas boiler it was probably only about 7kw of actual heat, so equivalent to the very smallest of electric showers which would have a similarly poor flow rate.
  10. A WPD pole transformer and new supply will cost quite a lot - get a quote. Can't comment on gas showers, but they have been popular in caravans for decades (I'm guessing you mean bottled gas?) Have you considered a water tank and small wind tubine / solar array (ie off grid)?
  11. depends who you buy them from Payback on batteries has vastly imroved over the last few years. You can post links to a picture hositng site, or directly on here after 10 posts - it's a feature to stop spam!
  12. Hello again guys, after so much help recieved on my last query i wanted to ask another two questions, firstly after working out the legnth, avoiding volt drops so on and so forth and correctly calling the sparky for extra guidance as i couldnt give enough infomation here, (sparky call was just some of the the advice by the way) i wanted to know because im dumb and didnt ask him firstly would it be recommended to swap the electric shower for a gas one which i have been told is more than possible as the layout and internals make for an easy fitting, (accordinly). (and that question comes from the sheer amount of horror stories ive heard from them)? Secondly does anybody know as it reduces the cable length dramatically wether going over head and having our weston power distribution company connect it to the mains for us as a seperate supply would be more or less in price than going from the mains to the house and then out to our static? I dont know if it make a difference knowing but option one, going over head theres 30 meters of 16mm 3 core internal earth cable, and option two goes from mains to house then to the static which is 120 meters of cable? I hope i have worded this well enough to understand and like last time thankyou so much for even taking the time to read my post i can hopefully provide more infomation if needed. Drewboards.
  13. Last week
  14. Agreed... but I can understand some situations where it could be beneficial... If you had a commercial system and you want to prevent a disgruntled / incompetent employee from messing it up... Or.. If you are providing a maintenance contract to keep a system working... Or. If you are a landlord and want to ensure that DIY-Bob, Google-is-your-guide, tenant, hasn't been playing around to reset a system... Then it can be useful having a secure code that cannot be overridden or disabled, so you know you can get back into a system. BUT... for the vast majority of domestic alarms where a homeowner has paid for a system, they should have full access to all aspects of that alarm... So they can choose to either manage the system themselves or seek professional help if they prefer.. And NOT be tied to the installing company for certain functions... With domestic alarms I install, the homeowner is given all access codes and booklets/guides etc.. It's their choice if they want to come back to me... or seek alternative assistance for later maintenance.. I look at it a bit like anyone who has bought a car can choose where they get it serviced.. or do it themselves! (They should not be tied to going back to the place they bought the car).
  15. Macsamillion

    Manual solar changeover switch

    I just can't get the maths to work out for batteries. They seem ludicrously expensive. I can't use iboost for storage heaters due to distance involved. My best bet is the changeover switch but how I wire it up is still in draft. I will get pictures up as soon as I'm allowed Out of interest what does everyone use to host the pictures as I understand I can only post url?
  16. I fear the OP's knowledge of electrics is not sufficient to do this properly and safely. I will start by asking do you want to "loop at light" or "loop at switch"?
  17. what type of cable are you using ? also what type and make of pull cord switch, if you search the net you should be able to buy this type of light with a pull cord already fitted
  18. My wife wants me to put a strip light over her sewing desk controlled by a pull cord powered by a 3pin plug can someone please tell me which colours go to L1. L2 and com on the pull cord and if this is a safe method
  19. basically, the 'installer' can hold the customer to ransom by programing a code that no one else can change therefore making their own equipment useless unless you go to them. its a feature i never did like or agree with much
  20. So that a supplier/installer can retain overall control of a system.. and ensure the customer has to come back to them, (and pay more), to resolve certain types of problem.
  21. HI, Thanks for that, I saw the mention of heating, is this a likely cause. I will probably looking at a heat pump but it would not be installed in the studio area. Thans for the guidance so far.
  22. Fair enough. Why would it not reset engineer code?
  23. be warned if its engineer locked the defaulting it will reset everything ecept engineer code, making the panel pretty much useless
  24. unfortunately not. tried that and 4321. Thanks for the help. Guess I will get an engineer out to reset it or figure out how to do it myself.
  25. Murdoch

    Critique my EICR testing process

    AFAIR there is no mandatory requirement to note the number of accessories on an EICR and I rarely do it , but my sketch of the property will show where they all are, and on which circuit they are on. EICR's are a very contentious subject - just make sure your PI insurance is up to date
  26. Sounds like your best bet would be a set of batteries, or you need to add heaters connected via additional Solic or iboost only, to throw energy into heat - note, digital controls are not compatible with these devices.
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