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  2. That will be only a very small amount of movement and is definitely in the realms of fine tuning. you should get a signal regardless of that dine tuning, To be honest the present generation of satellites are a lot more powerful than they used to be so i rarely make those fine tuning adjustments.
  3. The LNB slides through the mounting bracket that clips to the arm, so that you can adjust the horn to be at the focal point, this advice is given in the instructions, it also needs to rotate to set it up.
  4. That's an LNB for a Sky dish. the end of the arm on the sky dish will have an upturned "pip" (bit of bent metal) that the forward edge of the black plastic bracket clips under, and a hole in the LNB arm that lines up with a hole in the plastic bracket. A snap off plastic pin pushes into this hole to locate it. There should be no ambiguity at all.
  5. A healthy element should be higher than you can read on a general purpose multi-meter. An acceptable one, above 3 or 4 Meg ohms. As someone else pointed out the resistance can drop as they heat up. (Though without an RCD you will not know). My theory is that moisture in the insulation is driven towards the ends as the element heats; its concentration in a smaller volume of the insulation creates a leakage path.
  6. The LNB is adjustable to be moved toward and away from the dish. It’s this LNB: https://cpc.farnell.com/visiblewave/vk4l/quad-lnb-with-level-indicator/dp/AP03295 If you look at it and the instructions, it is designed to slide & rotate to set it up.
  7. The LNB should not slide. If it is, something is assembled wrong. Can you post a picture? you are quite right that it should be at the focal point and that is critical.
  8. roys

    There is a God.....

    Even that bit where Freddy rolled the hearse? Must admit I am watching Top Gear again as I do like the new line up.
  9. What sort of resistance readings should i get from ''healthy'' elements?
  10. I still had the other bracket and dish, and it tally’s up with the direction suggested at dishpointer as per UNG above. Now, I am not sure about my elevation, I admit. Also the LNB slides in and out of the bracket toward and away from the dish, obviously the focal point of the parabola needs to be at the right point to enter the LNB, so I’m also not sure about that or if it will make a massive difference initially. Tomorrow I think I’ll see if I can work through the bits on the page lined by ProDave above and see where I get.
  11. Work through this guide http://www.satcure.co.uk/tech/satmeter.htm There's an ebook to download there as well for more help.
  12. revjames

    There is a God.....

    its all scripted and acted out. I doubt that Edd or Ant does all the work, probably done by a team of mechanics behind the scenes. TG the same, all scripted and rehearsed beforehand...
  13. Are you sure the cable's OK? Could it have an internal break from when the old dish fell down? Or perhaps water entered it in the meantime?
  14. the statellite is over 22,000 miles from here. you need to be fairly accurate...
  15. Personally I would want to know that running it has "cured" the low insulation resistance in those two elements. This can happen when absorbed moisture is driven out of the element's mineral compound.. Otherwise, its working, yes, but with an un-detected fault because you don't have an RCD on your panel. Having said that, (others may correct me here), I believe that until recently it was common to leave cookers off the RCD circuits because they tend to cause this sort of problem.
  16. been switched on for nearly one hour on all 4 elements, full temperature, no issues. Whilst the oven is out the cupboard, any other tests i need to do or are we confident with it?
  17. I would expect a low voltage multimeter to read open circuit (infinite ohms) between the element terminals and earth. Still now it's all been warmed up it might be okay now.
  18. test again with a proper insulation resistance tester and i bet youll get a lot less than 1meg... even less once its ben heated a bit
  19. this is what i tested, the actual elements at the back of the oven, no power, no cables going to them and i got anything between 30 and 60ohms, I also checked the resistance from LN to earth and I got couple of them a bit more than 1 Mohms and the other two 18Mohms.
  20. You have to test at the elements. without power and you setting the clock time, most won't turn on power to the elements.
  21. So what did you get L-N to ground
  22. i have another fluke that does insulation but i thought i won't need it for this job, i left it at work. What is the worst case scenario to test the oven to? Both ovens on, full temp, all 4 elements on, 1 hour?
  23. If one of the elements had an earth leakage fault. Basically an unwanted resistance path from L or N to earth. That meter you have would not show that, It's also entirely possible (though unlikely) for a wiring fault within the cooker e.g. a N to E short, or a N and E reversed.
  24. Picture of the multimeter I used The elements warmed up and i left both ovens running at full blast for a while. I will check it again later on. If it was his rcd, what was causing the rcd to trip? Just out of curiocity
  25. It won't be the 20A mcb. that might trip after a while with both ovens on, but should not trip with just one. My money is still on an rcd tripping (your house does not have one) and the test meter you used does not sound like a proper insulation tester. At least the elements will have been warmed up, so it may, just may, have fixed it if it was damp elements. Do let us know and if it trips when back in it's own house, take a photo of exactly what trips.
  26. tested all 4 elements resistance (L to N and LN to ground) with a fluke and all 4 tested ok (L to N between 30 and 60ohms), no surprises there. I connected the mains cable on the new oven and gave it a go, left both ovens running on full heat for 15 minutes and again no issues. I will let the oven to cool down and I give it another good blast for 1 hour or so and see how it goes. Based on what the previous owner experienced I would say the problem was his 20A circuit breaker, the oven requires 30A fuse which I only found out once I had the oven in my house. I was kind of expecting a heating element to be out or needing drying but it turns out a lot better than i thought, fingers crossed
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