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  1. Today
  2. Hey I've been out of the industry for a couple of years and I'm helping plan a PV system and I'm going to have to use the new G98 & G99 applications were looking at an 18 panel system using 340w panels going us 5.44kw and adding a 5.8kw battery so this would fall under G99 correct? Tia
  3. Yesterday

    What do you do with your scrap?!

    Our local metal recycling yard will accept any quantity of scrap including; stripped bare copper, Unstripped cable, Brass, Aluminium, Steel etc.. Its all a question of quantities and how much time & effort it is for you -vs- monetary re-numeration.. Small electrical items can be disposed of along with standard domestic waste at our local tip into a specific skip for electrical waste.. I am legally entitled to dispose of my own domestic electrical waste, (PC's, TV's, Hobby electronics kits etc..), at our local tip.. If a "customer" has given me some old electrical item for no monetary gain, then it is now my own personal waste not their waste. A few MCB's do not create a very large size of waste.. and two or three standard sized domestic consumer units are not too difficult to include within domestic waste. (Whereas a few industrial / commercial / 3-phase boards could be a different question ).. Stripped, (clean) copper, and Brass both have higher value per Kg than many other waste metals.. So it can often be worthwhile to dismantle some older electrical switchgear that has larger quantities of brass terminals / switchgear.. I have some tubs in my garage where segregated waste metals are stored, (bare copper, unstripped cable and brass etc), until they are sufficiently full to warrant a trip to the metal recycling scrap yard.. A waste carriers licence is not needed for your own personal waste.. e.g. you take an old washing machine from your house to the tip.. BUT if you take an old washing machine from your parents house to the tip.. OR you pick up an old washing machine from a stranger who paid you £20 to dispose of it.. it becomes a different question..... OR if you have replaced some electrical items in your own house... Domestic/Commercial???????? Bottom line is if I have to pay to dispose of waste.. probably not worth while.. If I am being paid for my waste.. its a no-brainer!!
  5. Also.. remember the bods doing an assessment will always be looking with a fine tooth comb for some observations or comments about your example work/documentation.. as otherwise they wont have much evidence for their bosses that they are doing their job right!! If they just passed everyone, with no comments/observations they would look as though they haven't really checked anything! e.g. Providing the measured max Zs is correct in relation to the protective device.. writing an incorrect max permissible Zs on an electrical certificate, is not actually much of a safety issue.. OR.. ticking the wrong box for the earthing arrangement... (as 99% of customers can't understand the majority of the numbers written on the certificate anyway).. But an assessor would love this type of mistake as they can report an error on their assessment about your work, that they have highlighted to you! There are a whole bunch of academic errors that have no safety issues.. yet assessors seem to be trained to spot!! So don't panic.. when they appear to be questioning some aspect of the job during an assessment..
  6. Luckyboy

    What do you do with your scrap?!

    I do. That only allows me to transport my waste though Regarding the £100… it’s actually £95, quote from council trade waste is chargeable. The minimum charge is £95, which allows up to 340kg.
  7. Fleeting

    What do you do with your scrap?!

    £100 for what. Do you have a waste carriers licence.
  8. Luckyboy

    What do you do with your scrap?!

    I suppose so… Most of the properties I visit are during tenancy changes though, or have tenants inside. Don’t think leaving a bunch of old electrical equipment will get me on the LL’s good books.
  9. Appreciate it, special location! I mean, I’ve paid 75% of the first year already through instalments (cheeky if you ask me). So I can’t see them saying “you know what, here’s your money back”. I’ve got a 48V track… haven’t shocked myself yet… something to do with touch voltage?
  10. At the end of the day its not like going for a job interview where you are the one who wants the job.. but the employer has the upper hand and can make the choice for or against you.. You just have to remember that for whoever you choose to join.. (1) You are looking to be their customer.. (2) You will be paying money to pay their wages.. (3) You could choose to join another scheme provider.. (4) You are under no obligation to join any scheme at all, As you can still pay an LABC direct yourself. And a fundamental rule of business is "look after your customers" as they pay your bills!!! Just as you need to look after your customers, as you want them to keep paying you money and not go elsewhere... The various scheme providers will want to keep their customers rather than losing your enrolment fees to a competitor!! So basically you have just as much control over the assessment proceedings as they do.. This is of course assuming you are not a complete and utter incompetent block-head who shouldn't be allowed near anything electrical above a 12v Scalextric track!!
  11. Sharpend

    What do you do with your scrap?!

    Can you not leave it with customer to dispose of? cable save and take to scrapyard at end of year ?
  12. Luckyboy

    EICR c1 and c2

    You can’t say there will be C1s and C2s without actually inspecting and testing! RCD protection would be C3 anyway. Get another company to do the EICR, sounds like you might be getting flogged.
  13. Thanks all - appreciate it! Feel much better going to my assessment now.
  14. Hi all newbie question I’ve started my electrical business over the last 6 months (yes I do know the regs, yes I do a proper job, no I’m not a cowboy!) What do you all do with your scrap consumer units, bits of TW&E, damaged MCB/RCBs? I’ve had a look online and contacted my local recycling centre but they want min. £100! Thanks Lucky
  15. The thing is that a decent MFT or multimeter will have been checked or even calibrated severalplaces in the ohms and Kohms range while a megger etc was probably checked at 1 or 2 Mohms If they all say 10 Megs I wouldn't worry, but if an insulation tester says its 0.03 Mohms I would not be relying on that as a 'calibrated and precise reading' In fact the spec likely says +/- 1 count at least on top of +/- 5 or 10%
  16. IF the continuity range on your Megger reaches 23,000Ω.
  17. thanks for this. So I’m 100% clear I could use a Megger MFT ( set to continuity) and one probe on the MET and one on the metal part in question. If I get a reading higher than 22Kohms then won’t need to bond. I tried today and I got about 40K ohms with continuity and 0.04 Mohms with IR setting.
  18. Have you got a copy of the user instructions? https://www.wolseley.co.uk/wcsstore7.00.1066.1226/ExtendedSitesCatalogAssetStore/images/products/AssetPush/DTP_AssetPushHighRes/std.lang.all/nu/al/222424_User_Manual.pdf 24:00 hrs generally doesn't exist on most time clocks.. normally goes from 0:00 to 23:59, then back to 0:00.. i.e as it passes midnight the time increments: 23:57, 23:58, 23:59, 0:00, 0:01, 0:02 etc.. (NO 24:00)
  19. How can you program this controller to run from 6pm Saturday to 11.30 am Sunday? It doesn't seem possible, if I program Saturday to finish at 24.00hrs the Sunday won't start any earlier than 03.00? Cheers
  20. I think my Megger MFT goes down to 0.01MOhm which is about 10 KOhm, but I wouldn't trust it to be accurate at that low level. You would have to check the spec of your MFT to see if IR could be used. I always use continuity test for checking bonding.
  21. both are testing continuity / resistanc. there pretty much the same thing. IR youre not expecting low readings hence the high readings and always in Mohms. its also at a higher voltage. continuity you want to check the lower resistances, for this you also want current (200mA flowing required) you could do an IR test for checking extraneous or not, however im not aware of any MFT that have a Kohms scale unless the resistance is in the Mohms, it wont be any help. reading of 0.00 could still be well over 22K
  22. Last week
  23. Well spotted.. getting late & kicking in.. Maybe.. ?? https://www.bdc.co.uk/accenta-lcd-keypad-for-optima-gen4-honeywell-8ep417a.html
  24. LCD keypad is still available.. https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/intruder-alarm-c-36/security-control-panels-c-36_102/control-panels-all-c-36_102_41/ade-honeywell-lcd-keypad-for-optima-accenta-control-panels-p-865.html?zenid=sjnvs3ure4sa7r0ip1fmkapg01 Not sure if Richard 9th link includes VAT.. or where they are physically located as a business.. But I do know I have used Security Warehouse myself numerous times in the past.. (They are only 25mins drive from my home!!) And they are a reliable supplier.. Either way that's 2 supplier options and I am confident there will be more options if you go a Googling!
  25. To determine if an metal work is classed as an extraneous conductive parts then I understand that a test is to be carried out between the metal work in questions and the MET. I know as a general rule if the reading comes back as 22Kohms of higher then the part doesn’t need bonding, however some people state it’s a continuity test between metal work and MET and others are saying it’s an IR test. I could see how both could he right but would like clarity. continuity test - You are simply testing to see if there is continuity between that metal work and earth. IR Test - you are seeing if there is resistance between the metal work and earth. Any thoughts would be appreciated

    Electrical twin socket in the kitchen

    I would concur with Sir Geoff's summary quoted above! Basically DONT go buying a cheap unbranded replacement double socket from Home-Bargain or Wilkinson or Poundland etc.. etc.. etc..
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