programmer or port valve

after reading a few threads on here i am not to keen on messing with heating systems. but this WAS a straight forward take off the wall and put back on.

here goes.

this looks exacly like the programmer, cant say if it is the exact same model

its 3 port valve system.

basicaly marked and noted down which wire and terminal. took off and wired back up.

hot water works,

heating light turns on but the boiler or pump dont kick in

it is posible i have mixed a wire up but i dont think i have, spoke to a plumber i know and he says its likely that its an existing fault and the port vlave needs replacing.

will post a pick of the terminals in the programmer when the forum lets me.

its fed L, N, E from FCU and then two 3 core and earth with 1 core just in a terminal block in the back of the box

sorry the info is limited but any advise would be appreciated thanks

http://customer.honeywell.com/techlit/pdf/95c-00000s/95c-10820.pdf

just looking at wiring diagram

mines a bit different as main feed gose to to programmer first, and L feed goes to terminal 8 instead of L, but 8 and L are linked out through terminal 5, not sure what difference this makes but like i say i just wired it as it was.

Just back pedal at bit Tom...

What was the original fault reported that caused you to go and change the programmer????

water not working?

heating not working?

both?

neither?

Is it a case where they have just started re-using the central heating as weather cooled down a bit after leaving heating rads idle all summer?

i.e. could we have a sludge in system causing some blockage rather than an electrical fault...

The 3port valve does have micro switched inside which can prevent boiler firing...

or cause continual run all time...

or just be mechanically stuck allowing water to flow where it shouldn't!

:| :C

well mate ther was no fault the programmer just need moving up a little and sinking into the wall

so same programmer.

the plumber did mention about the heating being off all summer, customer says it was on a few weeks back but then she mght say that any way.

some rads have been removed and caped off.

you mention water running were it should not, did get a bit of mucky water after the hot and cold tap water were shut off to alter there pipe work a bit.

the valve kicks in for hot but dose nothing for heating

well mate ther was no fault the programmer just need moving up a little and sinking into the wallso same programmer.

the plumber did mention about the heating being off all summer, customer says it was on a few weeks back but then she mght say that any way.

some rads have been removed and caped off.

you mention water running were it should not, did get a bit of mucky water after the hot and cold tap water were shut off to alter there pipe work a bit.

the valve kicks in for hot but dose nothing for heating

Click to expand...

Sounds like something ar5e about face there..

Normally:

Hot water only - valve is in non-energized home position (pulled back by spring)

Heating only - valve driven full to far position

Water & heating both on - valve drives then is stalled in midway position.

Sounds like something ar5e about face there..Normally:

Hot water only - valve is in non-energized home position (pulled back by spring)

Heating only - valve driven full to far position

Water & heating both on - valve drives then is stalled in midway position.

Click to expand...

mate recons that when the 3 ports ****** up they work only for hot water,

may be its sticking, i do have the worst luck with these things, but dont do myself any favors by not seeing if it worked befor hand and i need to stop other trades rushing me,

Hi Tom1, have you checked to see if you have voltage at each stage when heat on is selected.

1. Select heat on only at the timeclock. Leave hot water off if it is not linked to the heating

2. do you get 230v going to the wiring centre. If so this is then linked to the common of the roomstat, in the wiring centre.

3. turn the roomstat up. Do you get 230v on the call conductor from the roomstat back to the wiring centre. This conductor should be connected to the white of the mid position valve. You should then also get 230v on the orange conductor of the mid position valve when the roomstat is turned up

agree with rainydays only first thing i would try is the room stat calling for heat or is it turned down for summer! heating wont work if room stat is set too low.