This may be a long shot, but i have a little problem with my washing machine and was wondering if there are any engineers on here that do white good's repairs etc and that could maybe give me a little advice. If there is no one on here its self has anyone used a forum in a past or using one at the moment for washing machine's/ white goods and can recomend them to me..... I have done the usual google search and a few forums do pop up but they may not be relayable etc.
Zanussi ZWF12070W1 Door Will Not Open at End of Cycle
- Thread starter ~Sparky~
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Help Support Talk Electrician Forum:
you might get somewhere if you post what the problem is...
I didnt want to waste time in posting the problem on here if no one can give me any advice to be honest, as white good's is really a job in its self and i wanted to see if anyone done them on here before i posted my problem.... but you asked so i will explain my fault, only because i thaught i would give one of the forums a go that i found and i will copy and paste it 
lazy ******.... i know lol.
I have a Zanussi washing machine, Part no ZWF12070W1
We have had it for a little over a year and had no problems what so ever, apart from the last few weeks, we use the same cycle all the time (dont know why it is that cycle, im the kind of guy who doesnt ask why the other half uses that cycle alone). It is the 40 degree cycle just above the easy iron 40 degree cycle that we use. Just lately it carrys out the cycle as per usual and with no problems untill it comes to the end. The Door light flashes as its comming to the end and then thats all it does keeps flashing at door. The drum appears to have no water in it. The only way i can get the door to open is to select the dial to off, then select the dial to drain, i hear a motor or pump running then the door light flashes then solid green on end, then door opens no problem. as it should do. It appears to only happen on this cycle alone as i tryed a spin cycle with nothing in the drum and it worked no problems. I have a feeling this is a PCB problem but as you can probably tell i have no knoledge in these atal and would be greatfull of a little advice.
lazy ******.... i know lol.I have a Zanussi washing machine, Part no ZWF12070W1
We have had it for a little over a year and had no problems what so ever, apart from the last few weeks, we use the same cycle all the time (dont know why it is that cycle, im the kind of guy who doesnt ask why the other half uses that cycle alone). It is the 40 degree cycle just above the easy iron 40 degree cycle that we use. Just lately it carrys out the cycle as per usual and with no problems untill it comes to the end. The Door light flashes as its comming to the end and then thats all it does keeps flashing at door. The drum appears to have no water in it. The only way i can get the door to open is to select the dial to off, then select the dial to drain, i hear a motor or pump running then the door light flashes then solid green on end, then door opens no problem. as it should do. It appears to only happen on this cycle alone as i tryed a spin cycle with nothing in the drum and it worked no problems. I have a feeling this is a PCB problem but as you can probably tell i have no knoledge in these atal and would be greatfull of a little advice.
sammysnail
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good find
sammysnail
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Superb mate, thanks very much.... i may be asking a little to much but when he mentions that the door lock device needs changing does he mean this,
http://www.espares.co.uk/part/washing-machines/door-parts/zanussi/zwf12070w1/p/1556/332/0/1072814/543785/washing-machine-door-inte.html
Also im sure i would be able to find a tutorial about replacing the part by the powers of google but is this a hard/ complicated thig to replace.
http://www.espares.co.uk/part/washing-machines/door-parts/zanussi/zwf12070w1/p/1556/332/0/1072814/543785/washing-machine-door-inte.html
Also im sure i would be able to find a tutorial about replacing the part by the powers of google but is this a hard/ complicated thig to replace.
that part looks wrong. shouldnt it be the part thats on the machine, not the door?
depending on the fault, i do fix some white goods (mostly oven/cooker elements). most faults are easy to replace parts. sometimes take a bit of time to remove covers for access though
I admit i know nothing about these but wouldnt i get the same problem on all cycles? i have had to do the drain cycle a few times and that appears to get the door to open.
Possibly, though id check this first as it wont cost.
At the end of the rinse cycle the pump empties, now there is a pressure switch inside which when drained sends a signal to the pcb so it knows it empty, if there is a blockage the gets trapped and the washer thinks its full still so the door wont open, eventually the air passes the blockage and the door releases.
Possibly, though id check this first as it wont cost.
At the end of the rinse cycle the pump empties, now there is a pressure switch inside which when drained sends a signal to the pcb so it knows it empty, if there is a blockage the gets trapped and the washer thinks its full still so the door wont open, eventually the air passes the blockage and the door releases.
sammysnail
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the items that i have got from espares have all come with a photocopied fitting instuctions.
sammysnail
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found this one as well looks different from the espares one :C
http://www.partmaster.co.uk/cgi-bin/product.pl?PID=1356193&brand=zanussi&model=ZWF12070W1∂=door%20interlock
http://www.partmaster.co.uk/cgi-bin/product.pl?PID=1356193&brand=zanussi&model=ZWF12070W1∂=door%20interlock
I came home earlier and desided to have a look at the machine, got into the area i needed and it is the part you have posted up Sammy. The part i posted is there as well but just seems to be a housing for the actual interlock.
Plumber.... i guess getting to this pressure switch is not going to be easy but i may give it a bash as it could be a free repair if i was to check that 1st. thanks
Plumber.... i guess getting to this pressure switch is not going to be easy but i may give it a bash as it could be a free repair if i was to check that 1st. thanks
Spark just take the lid off
The pressure switch is at the top, it will have a 10 mm hose connected to it, if the door wont open pull off the hose if the door then opens you know you have a blockage.
Its normally connected down at he filter housing, if theres no filter there will be a small moulding of some type to which the hose connects
The pressure switch is at the top, it will have a 10 mm hose connected to it, if the door wont open pull off the hose if the door then opens you know you have a blockage.
Its normally connected down at he filter housing, if theres no filter there will be a small moulding of some type to which the hose connects
The other way to look at it is normally you will have thress wires sometimes four
live and neutral feed a ptc or coil which heats up a bimetallic strip this the makes contact locking the door and sending power up the other cable feeding the pcb.
Now if your pcb is still feeding 230 volts to the door lock then the question is why, what peripheral devices might affect the door lock, well the pressure switch is one for sure, but i cant think of any others that may interrupt the opening.
If still 230 to door switch then possibly pcb fault
if no 230volts to door switch then a faulty door interlock
live and neutral feed a ptc or coil which heats up a bimetallic strip this the makes contact locking the door and sending power up the other cable feeding the pcb.
Now if your pcb is still feeding 230 volts to the door lock then the question is why, what peripheral devices might affect the door lock, well the pressure switch is one for sure, but i cant think of any others that may interrupt the opening.
If still 230 to door switch then possibly pcb fault
if no 230volts to door switch then a faulty door interlock
This may sound totaly ammature but.... i think what you are asking me to do is,
1- expose door interlock so i can get into the connections
2- switch the washing machine onto any cycle ( but dont press play to do the cycle)
3- test if there is 230V at the interlock, if so there is a fault else where if not its the interlock.
Sory to sound like a complete novice.... but i would like to fix the problem myself if i can but if things do get to technical i will get someone in that knows what there doing.
1- expose door interlock so i can get into the connections
2- switch the washing machine onto any cycle ( but dont press play to do the cycle)
3- test if there is 230V at the interlock, if so there is a fault else where if not its the interlock.
Sory to sound like a complete novice.... but i would like to fix the problem myself if i can but if things do get to technical i will get someone in that knows what there doing.
