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Honeywell Accenta G4 - Wiring To New Siren


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kwano888

Hi all,

 

Need a little help and confirmation of the wiring connections to the Accenta G4 Panel and Sounder.

 

The sounder is a Texecom Flashguard Minn-XW which I have to install internally due to conditions of placing external sounders on the Flat building. I originally had an Odyssey 3E which was working fine.

 

The fault I am getting is 'Tamper Fault Lockout' on the LCD keypad.

 

I have wired the Accenta G4 panel for the Sounder as follows :

 

YELLOW connected to marked minus '-' on STROBE

GREEN connected to ‘T’

BLACK connected to ‘A’

(12v) RED connected to ‘D’ (positive)

WHITE connected to ‘B’ (negative)

 

On the Sounder instructions it states :

 

Panel :                       - Sounder

 

0v Strobe                   - connect to 1. STROBE

0V Sounder Trigger   - connect to 2. TRIG -

+12v Hold off supply  - connect to 3. SUPPLY +

0v Hold off supply      - connect to 4. SUPPLY -

Tamper return            - connect to 5. TAMPER R

 

So I have wired the Sounder as follows :

 

Panel :                       - Sounder

 

0v Strobe                   - connect to 1. STROBE     - YELLOW

0V Sounder Trigger   - connect to 2. TRIG -         - WHITE

+12v Hold off supply  - connect to 3. SUPPLY +   - RED

0v Hold off supply      - connect to 4. SUPPLY -    - BLACK

Tamper return            - connect to 5. TAMPER R  - GREEN

 

I have checked the tamper switch on the G4 is 'clicked' in and the Sounder tamper switch also looks fine. Everything was working fine on the originally Odyssey 3E Sounder so I just need confirmation if I have gone wrong somewhere on the wiring side or not.

 

Pics attached.

 

Thanks all in advance.

post-23616-0-02449300-1432135024_thumb.j

post-23616-0-38004400-1432135035_thumb.j

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Richard-the-ninth

I have not got enough time to check the diagram. but i notice the panel says scb but your sounder, the jumper is set for sab

 

If that doesnt work join the gn to the black in the sounder, dont put the black with the green, put the green with the black

 

oh and check for 12v across red and black

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kwano888

I have not got enough time to check the diagram. but i notice the panel says scb but your sounder, the jumper is set for sab

 

If that doesnt work join the gn to the black in the sounder, dont put the black with the green, put the green with the black

 

oh and check for 12v across red and black

 

Changed to SCB but didn't make a difference. However, moved the Green wire to the Black and resolved the problem and all Tampers cleared.

 

Thanks very much for your advice. Much appreciated Richard.

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Richard-the-ninth

I only said that to find out is the cable to the panel ok, and it is.

It solved your problem but not the cause.

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kwano888

I only said that to find out is the cable to the panel ok, and it is.

It solved your problem but not the cause.

Just had a thought, will the Tamper in the Sounder still work being wired this way ? ie. If someone tries to vanalise the unit.

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SPECIAL LOCATION

Did you use a continuity tester (any meter with a suitable low ohms resistance scale) to actually verify the integrity of the tamper loop circuit?

 

Or are you just joining wires switching on and hoping for the best ??

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Richard-the-ninth

I don't want to get in an argument over it, but you can't use a meter to check the continuity of the tamper on a modern sounder, gone are the days when it was just a microswitch wired into the tamper loop.

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Richard-the-ninth

Kwano888, the probability of some one doing that is 0.01%

 

But I will say, that it should not be left as it is. I did point out that I asked you to move the wire to see does the tamper clear, which in turn proves if the cable is ok.

 

Since the panel cleared, it proves the cable and panel are ok, and the problem is with the sounder.

 

1) When the sounder is powered up, does it make any noise? If so when does it stop?

 

2) When the panel goes into alarm condition, or a bell test is done does the sounder make any noise?

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kwano888

Kwano888, the probability of some one doing that is 0.01%

 

But I will say, that it should not be left as it is. I did point out that I asked you to move the wire to see does the tamper clear, which in turn proves if the cable is ok.

 

Since the panel cleared, it proves the cable and panel are ok, and the problem is with the sounder.

 

1) When the sounder is powered up, does it make any noise? If so when does it stop?

 

2) When the panel goes into alarm condition, or a bell test is done does the sounder make any noise?

 

On initial setup when moving the jumper on the Sounder to activate it it sounds for 5 seconds as per the instructions.

 

http://www.klaxonsignals.com/images/Products/docs/datasheet/112.pdf

 

When I connected the backup battery in the Panel the Sounder again sounds loudly and turns off after I enter my code. I then press reset twice to restore to normal.

 

When I complete a Bell and Strobe test it works fine too.

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