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Simon1013

Lightwaverf for high efficiency lights

14 posts in this topic

I am considering Lightwaverf dimmers for my extension project, however, the literature states that because it's a no-neutral wire system, it requires a certain load for the dimmers to function correctly.

 

Lightwaverf I believe recommend a minimum of 4 LED lights to be used to ensure correct operation, however, I would have only one or two lights on each dimmer in which case a "40w" dummy load is required apparently.

 

Presumably the load is required to allow, when 'switched off' a small current through the bulb to drive the electronics in the switch. However, I am reluctant to invest in LED lights at 5-10W just to have the current draw increase by 400% by including a resistor in the circuit. I haven't thought this through in detail, but in principle does this mean that I may as well not spend the extra on a high efficiency LED and series (hungry) resistor and just put a standard 40 halogen in?

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or don't bother with a dimmer. Dimming LEDs isn't that great a result anyway, you are better off with seconday lighting like table lamps for subtle lighting effect.

 

 

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Oh, I don't know. get the right LEDS and dimming them can look pretty good.

They "dim" LED lights in RGB led lights to give multiple millions of colours

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ID: 4   Posted (edited)

that's a bit different and very expensive control gear and fittings - I know cos I did this..... (crp photo off phone but you get the point)

I just never convinced that domestic gear works well under dimming

20151104_173000[1].jpg

Edited by binky
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Nice pic. (Looks like the turret of a castle, or is it a water tower?) I hate to disagree, but what you say about expensive control gear and fittings used to be true, not any more it isn't. You can buy an RGB lamp with controller for a fiver, not to mention RGB strip. (Got that on an out building, best not ask)

My point is dimming LEDS is cheaper than it used to be and you can get some good effects when you do it.

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It's an old artillery tower, dating back to around Henry the 8th.

 

My point about LED, is the cheap stuff just diesn't seem to last, although it is much better than it was. I've never been a fan of dimmers anyway due to long term reliability even stuff like MK only seems to last 5 years, which isn't long enough in my opinion. Some seem to last far longer, but it seems rather variable.

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Dimmer switch.........variable, I see what you did there. :Applaud

 

 

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So in summary, using Lightwaverf dimmers I have to make sure the load is 40w or greater to make it work correctly right?

 

This can be done by either a whole string of nice cool (dimming) LEDs which isn't practical for my single rose installation, so I am either stuck with a single nice high efficiency LED with a load to turn it into a very inefficient LED or go with an old fashioned hot halogen to get the wattage up high enough.

 

The irony is that I don't actually want or need the dimming function, but there is no switch on the market as far as I am aware that works as a no-neutral wire system. And as far as I am aware, the Lightwaverf dimmers can't be configured or used as switches.

 

All the alternatives require a live and neutral at the switch which can't be accommodated in my installation.

 

...unless anybody knows any different.

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normal light switch doesn't use neutral.....

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Ha, thanks Binky but 'use a normal light switch' isn't really in the spirit of things considering this was posted in the 'home automation' section...

 

Liking the out of the box thinking though ;-)

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Having done a bit more of my own research over the last day or two, looks like one (or maybe two) of these items wired in parallel would do the trick.

 

https://www.downlights.co.uk/danlers-res-load.html

 

At only 10w it's not hugely inefficient...and seems to be endorsed by Lightwaverf. That in parallel with a dimmable LED is still much less power than a single 40w halogen.

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Ok, I found exactly what I need.

 

The Fibaro Dimmer 2 is a 2 wire device (no neutral) that can be configured as a switch to use with low loads where dimming won't work. This is additional functionality that the Lightwaverf system does not have and required some serious digging into the back of the installation manual.

 

http://www.fibaro.com/manuals/en/FGD-212/FGD-212-EN-T-v1.0.pdf

 

I am probably talking to myself by now, but maybe somebody will search this in future and find the bit of info that I couldn't...

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I have recently done some repairs to a Rako lighting system. The system i worked on had the battery operated switches fixed into the original switch boxes. These switches then remotely sent a signal to devices similar looking to a 12v lighting transformer  fitted behind each or each bank of lights. Switches, dimmers for tungsten, halogen and led are available.

The batteries in the switches  have just started to fail after 5+ years

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