Have I employed a cowboy?

Hello,

I've bought a house which Is now gutted and the electricians have started a full rewire of the house. They are now waiting for the kitchen drawings then they are to come back and finish. I've had a look at the work and I have some questions. I know very little about electrical work. 

1. They chased out the plaster to the brick (about 15 mm) connected the wires to the brick. Should this be in metal casing? Can the plastering go over the wires? 

2. Behind the TV I have asked for 2 plug sockets. They have run wires down from the ceiling in a straight line to 1 plug but then run the other wire at an angle to the plug next to it. Is this OK? 

3. In the bedroom they have chased out from floor to ceiling and run 2 wires in the middle of the wall. It doesn't leed to plugs or switches. It's as if they want to get from downstairs to the attic. I didn't think they could do this? 

4. Left old wires in the wall and just cut them off?

5. Do I need a certificate from an inspector to pass the work before i plaster? 

I have pictures but can't post untill I have posted 4 more replys. 

Trying to get to 5 posts so I can add pictures.

Fringle said:

Hello,

I've bought a house which Is now gutted and the electricians have started a full rewire of the house. They are now waiting for the kitchen drawings then they are to come back and finish. I've had a look at the work and I have some questions. I know very little about electrical work. 

1. They chased out the plaster to the brick (about 15 mm) connected the wires to the brick. Should this be in metal casing? Can the plastering go over the wires? 

2. Behind the TV I have asked for 2 plug sockets. They have run wires down from the ceiling in a straight line to 1 plug but then run the other wire at an angle to the plug next to it. Is this OK? 

3. In the bedroom they have chased out from floor to ceiling and run 2 wires in the middle of the wall. It doesn't leed to plugs or switches. It's as if they want to get from downstairs to the attic. I didn't think they could do this? 

4. Left old wires in the wall and just cut them off?

5. Do I need a certificate from an inspector to pass the work before i plaster? 

I have pictures but can't post untill I have posted 4 more replys. 

Trying to get to 5 posts so I can add pictures.

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1: clipped direct is acceptable. it does not need capping

2: cables should not be at an angle, they can run between boxes at different heights but only vertically / horizontally

3: unless its >50mm deep (which would seriously affect the structure of the wall) then its not in a safe zone

4: nothing wrong with leaving existing cables in place.  removing redundant cables can do a lot of unnecessary damage

5: no, but you should receive an electrical installation certificate at the end of the job, and a part p certificate if they are providing it

Hi Andy,

Thanks for the reply.

Could I just ask about your reply to question 3. 

As it's not deeper than 50 mm. It's about 15 - 20 mm. This not allowed? Not sure what a safe zone means? 

A safe zone is created by a switch or socket or within 6 inches of a corner of a room or the ceiling.Cables can run horizontally or vertically from such a point.

If cables are running up a wall and there is no switch, socket, light etc it means it's not in a safe zone unless it's in the corner.

Pictures would be helpful

Did the electricians promise part p certification and notification as part of the quote?

Hello Murdoch,

the wires run up the wall and next to (2 inches) a wall light switch. So it seems it's ok.

they haven't put the part p on the quote. I have never heard of this. At the end of the job when I receive the invoice what else should I get? I don't want issues when I come to sell the house in the future. I want everything right. From what I'm reading I need an electrical insulation certificate and a part p  certificate? Correct?

thanks 

part p compliance is down to the home owner. however, the sparky can notify his own work if registered with a scheme on your behalf. check your contract and see what is stated. either way you should get an electrical installation certificate to BS7671

Fringle said:

Hello Murdoch,

ignore the above reply that I accidentally copied and pasted.

the wires run up the wall and next to (2 inches) a wall light switch. So it seems it's ok.

they haven't put the part p on the quote. I have never heard of this. At the end of the job when I receive the invoice what else should I get? I don't want issues when I come to sell the house in the future. I want everything right. From what I'm reading I need an electrical insulation certificate and a part p  certificate? Correct?

thanks 

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Re the certificate and part P maybe you should clarify it sooner rather than later.....

Andy™ said:

part p compliance is down to the home owner. however, the sparky can notify his own work if registered with a scheme on your behalf. check your contract and see what is stated. either way you should get an electrical installation certificate to BS7671

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Hum. 99% of electricians in England and Wales are well aware of part P and should make sure that homeowners are aware.

Here's a picture of some cables at a job I did a while ago.... If it wasn't for the backbox at the bottom of the picture, the cables to the right of the light switch position would be out of the safe zone

It doesn't sound like the installation is by a cowboy  without the pictures anyway.  

At the end of the day the wires have to get from A to B .

We had a customer once who , upon hearing us hammering & levering floorboards up , came running up the stairs to demand " What the hell are you doing ..Are you mad?"     Had no idea how wires would be laid in the floor space.   

I think your limited knowledge of the Electrical Regs may be worrying you . 

Coming back when kitchen positions have been decided is a normal practice . 

Just to clarify what you need before final payment , as the others have said :-

The contractor should test the new install , the results being on the Electrical Installation Certificate .

The contractor should also notify the job with Local Building Control ....if he is registered as an "Approved Contractor"  with NICEIC....NAPPIT ...ELECSA...STROMA 

If he is not registered  I believe it falls upon yourself as house owner to have the install certified by a third party.  

Its not a very good system I'm afraid ....Gas is much simpler.   

Also if you start chasing cables 50mm deep in all the walls , your house will probably fall in half .    They are just fixed to the brickwork  and plastered over , with or without any capping.   All wiring will be protected at the consumer unit . 

Get your pictures up on the Forum  and we'll have a look. 

A large problem with safe zones is that the general public per se aren't aware of them and what they are.

Just want to say Thankyou to all the replies above. Sorry I couldn't add photos yet. After a few more post I believe the forum will allow me too. Safe zones and part p are all new to my basic knowledge of electrical. 

Ps could there be any issues if the wires are touching hot water pipes under the floor boards? 

Fringle said:

Ps could there be any issues if the wires are touching hot water pipes under the floor boards? 

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Fringle, welcome to the forum.

Yes is the answer to that question for you!

Cables are not rated to be in contact with heating or hot water pipes, it will affect the electrical characteristics, & can damage the cables causing premature failure, damage and the potential for fire.

Always providing that the pipes are correctly bonded, else they could also have the potential to kill.

I asked that question as there are some wires close to the hot water pipe. The electrical isn't finished yet which is why I can see as the floor boards are up. I will check with the electrician on what he plans to do. Thanks. 

Fringle said:

I asked that question as there are some wires close to the hot water pipe. The electrical isn't finished yet which is why I can see as the floor boards are up. I will check with the electrician on what he plans to do. Thanks. 

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lag the pipes - it'll save you quite  abit of money, especially for central heating pipes by avoiding keeping the mice warm

sprocketflup said:

A large problem with safe zones is that the general public per se aren't aware of them and what they are.

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And a large part of the building trade. I had an argument with a joiner last week who told me I could not run cables horizontally along the wall from one socket to the next, and he swore he would put a screw through the cable because he "didn't know" it was there.