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Paul 1982

Fitting PIR security light

Question

Paul 1982

I had an old grubby light fitted to the outside of my house. Not a security light just a normal light. I’m after fitting a new light to it, the light had a bulb holder style bit for wiring the live and neutral into (black neutral white live) no were for earth to go so put earth into terminal block with insulation tape around it. Problem is soon as I’ve put power back on the light isn’t going out or switching of at what I’m assuming is the switch for the light as it’s directly below it on the inside of house, can anyone help please 

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Sharpend

Well you will be interested in the kitchen light switch if you misconnect it and it fails to work..

 

as for changing the format of the wiring, it's probably best that you have a tester available such as multimeter. 

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Paul 1982

Does anyone have any ideas thanks 

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Paul 1982

Sorry just seen your reply. 

 

Just st now it’s a single gang switch that works my kitchen light. On other side of kitchen I have a 2gang dimmer, one of the dimmer switches work the same kitchen light as the single switch does. 

 

So im guessing I need to change single gang to double gang for it to work kitchen light that it works atm and also to work the outside light.

 

Is it a difficult job to rewire into the new 2gang and for it to work? Should I post more pics of behind the light I’f that would help? 

 

Would it it be a case of wiring like for like in the 2gang the way that it’s wired into the 1gang atm but leaving out the outside light cable to later wire in so that it works from the new double switch? 

 

:facepalm::signthankspin:

I have a voltage tester 

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Barx
3 hours ago, Paul 1982 said:

Sorry just seen your reply. 

 

Just st now it’s a single gang switch that works my kitchen light. On other side of kitchen I have a 2gang dimmer, one of the dimmer switches work the same kitchen light as the single switch does. 

 

So im guessing I need to change single gang to double gang for it to work kitchen light that it works atm and also to work the outside light.

 

Is it a difficult job to rewire into the new 2gang and for it to work? Should I post more pics of behind the light I’f that would help? 

 

Would it it be a case of wiring like for like in the 2gang the way that it’s wired into the 1gang atm but leaving out the outside light cable to later wire in so that it works from the new double switch? 

 

:facepalm::signthankspin:

I have a voltage tester 

 

 

Here is my take on it so far, it got a little confusing at points. One minute the outside light doesn't go the switch, then it does, lol.

 

So, IF:

  • The outside light cable is identified at the switch that is pictured in the previously posted photo
  • You think you know which is the Live for outside light
  • You feel competent to faff about with it
  • You promise not to die
  • You do NOT blame any of us if you balls it up

Then, this would be my approach for you. now bear in mind there are many ways to connect a switch so this is educated guess.

 

The terminal to the right of previously posted photo (one with Yellow going to it appears to have most conductors connected. I would assume this is the permanent live terminal and that the outside light live conductor is connected here.

  • Turn off the power to lights and remove the one you think it for the outside light.
  • Tighten up the terminal with the remaining conductors still in.
  • Insulate the removed core with tape or connector block, just in case.
  • Turn power back on and see if kitchen light still works as usual
  • The outside light should be off right now..
  • Make sure the other lights on the circuit work as expected.
  • if the above all works out ok then get a 2gang switch.
  • Connect 1 side of 2 gang like for like with existing (leaving outside light live out for now) (this gang will operate the kitchen light)
  • Connect a link of cable (same size / type as what is already in the switch) from the Permanent live terminal (should still be the one with yellow in) to the Common of 2nd gang of switch, this will be for the outside light). A little tip: if you are struggling to get all the conductors in this terminal, transfer one over to the 2nd gang common and connect in with link.
  • Now put the live from the outside light into the L1 of the 2nd gang.

That's it, turn on and test.

 

The above assumes the switch gangs have terminals Common, L1, L2.

If the switch has L1, L2, L3 then they are as follows:

L1 - Common,

L2 - L1,

L3 - L2

 

Hope that makes sense

 

 

Edited by Barx

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Paul 1982

Yes thank you very much for taking the time to explain it like that,  that makes perfect sense.

 

I’ll give it a try tomorrow and let you know how I get on :signthankspin:

 

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Paul 1982

That’s me removed live from outside light going to switch and in terminal block.

Everything still working fine and outside light now of. 

Will get a two gang switch tommorow and try the rest 👍🏻

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Sharpend

Glad you survived! 

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Barx

Something tells me the next step didn't go so well......:innocent

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Paul 1982

No I’ve not tried it yet just need to try get a switch tommorow that matches rest of the switches lol I have confidence that it’ll work :Applaud

 

Cheers again , I’ll let yous know soon as it works 

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Paul 1982

Got my switches, on back of double gang 2way switch it has a comm then marked 1way 2way. I’m guessing 1way is L1 and 2way is L2? 

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Sharpend

Link a Permanent to common for outside light from the kitchen permenant live, Switched live to outside light in l1, 

the kitchen light should be wired the same as existing switch prior to taking off label each core or take a pic. 

 

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Paul 1982

Can L1 & L2 be marked 1way & 2way? My new switch says this 

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Paul 1982

That’s it working. 

I put Live from light into L1 on switch, but switch was on OFF position 

 

So swapped it into L2 on switch and outside light is now OFF on OFF position and ON on ON position. Was this safe to do what I done? 

 

:signthankspin:

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Paul 1982

Meant to say switch was on OFF position when outside light was on so swapped it to L2 and it’s the correct way around now, was that safe to do

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Barx
1 hour ago, Paul 1982 said:

Meant to say switch was on OFF position when outside light was on so swapped it to L2 and it’s the correct way around now, was that safe to do

 

Yeah mate, safe as houses. usually just means the whole thing is upside down. You either turn it around but have to swap everything over (i.e. wires for kitchen switch to other gang) or just do what you did ;)

And yes;

 

Common - comm

L1 - 1 way

L2 - 2 way

 

Nice work buddy.

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Paul 1982

Thanks very much for all help 👍🏻

 

:signthankspin:

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Barx

No worries, glad to be of help ;)

 

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Paul 1982

Could I ask another quick question

 

I was looking to put a small PIR light at my front door.

 

Can I run a 1.5m cable from outside to inside and tap into  a light switch close by to the outside light, and put my live straight into the live in the switch so that it’s constantly got a live feed? 

 

Exact same cenario that what was being done with my kitchen light before.

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Rob.

Depends if you have a neutral at your switch. 

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Paul 1982

Yes I have a neutral. 

 

The switch id tap into doesn’t have an RCD at the breaker but neither did my kitchen switch that had a outside light powered from it.

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Paul 1982

Do you reckon that would be ok to do as the same idea was already done in my kitchen? 

Thanks

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Sharpend

If you like, you could connect it in to the switched side so that it can be isolated for lamp changes etc. 

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Paul 1982

I wasn’t planning on having a switch for it, so would that be ok to just pop it into the live? 

 

The same way that my kitchen switch was supplying my outdoor light cheers again

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Doc Hudson
2 hours ago, Paul 1982 said:

I wasn’t planning on having a switch for it, so would that be ok to just pop it into the live? 

 

The same way that my kitchen switch was supplying my outdoor light cheers again

 

Personally I would always provide a means of isolating a PIR, (standalone or integral in a light fitting), I have seen enough PIR's go faulty where they leave a lamp permanently on, or flashing on and off. Where you need an easy point of isolation to turn if off until you can fix it. Also many PIRs have that inbuilt feature where you turn it off and on quickly to set the lamp as permanent On. or leave off for 30seconds+ to reset back to normal automatic operation. However safety wise there is nothing preventing it from being permanently connected to the supply, its more just a user functionality issue. 

 

Doc H.

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Paul 1982

Ok great thanks 👍🏻

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