Euro style light switch help

Hello,

I'm trying to replace a 2 gang (one of which is 2 way) switch for a different style switch. It's a Euro style switch so has different configuration on the back with L, L1 (gang 1), (gang 2), and 2 way inputs.

I've got it to work for the single way gang (L = Red, L2 = Black) but the 2 way gang trips the fuse in each way I've tried to wire it.

Old 2 way switch had L2 = Red, L1 = Blue, and Com = Yellow. Old 1 way switch had L1 = Red, and Com = Black.

The other switch linked to the 2 way has L1 = Red & Red, L2 = Blue & Black, Com = Yellow.

I thought it would L = Blue (plus red from single gang), L1 = Yellow, (L2 = Black for single way gang), 2 way = Red. But this and other options I've tried trips the fuse box.

Suggestions please.

Thanks

Explain "Trips the fuse"?

Fuses don't trip, they blow.  MCB's trip, but so do RCD's so exactly what "trips"

Lights were isolated on MCB when swapping it over and when turned back on tripped sockets over house.

Cover plate screw damaged one of the wires in the switch?

wire squashed against the screw that fixes the box to the wall?

Take switch off, refit old one, see if that trips?.....narrow down the variables one at a time 

I put the old one back on and it's fine. It tripped when it wasn't fitted to the wall so wasn't squashed etc.

Did a bit more research and looks as though I need one of my new switches at the other end as well as it won't work with a mechanical switch.

I will order another one and try with that and hopefully it fixes the problem with how I thought it should be wired.

Hang on a minute.......I ( and probably a couple,of others on here) assumed that the Euro Switch was just a standard two way switch BUT the Euro Shape that fits an odd sized box and NOT that it was a non standard switch

you dont usually have neutrals on a light switch (well, unless you have DP switching), so i would expect it to not work if wired wrong, but not trip anything

Did you take a pic, or make a note, of the original connections?

what make is the new switch ?....maybe we can google it and see the connections

I took a photo and made note of the original connections (these are set out in my original post above to follow).

The new one is a touch switch rather than mechanical rocker.  Similar to this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B078K3VRGJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1518983192&sr=8-21-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=2+gang+2+way+black+glass&psc=1

Only differences to connections are there is no L3 as only a 2 gang switch and has an extra connector marked 2 way.

glanvog said:

Lights were isolated on MCB when swapping it over and when turned back on tripped sockets over house.

Click to expand...

STILL not making sense.

It is tripping a DIFFERENT circuit to the lighting circuit?

OR is it tripping an RCD (thus tripping half the circuits in the house?)

glanvog said:

I took a photo and made note of the original connections (these are set out in my original post above to follow).

The new one is a touch switch rather than mechanical rocker.  Similar to this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B078K3VRGJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1518983192&sr=8-21-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=2+gang+2+way+black+glass&psc=1

Only differences to connections are there is no L3 as only a 2 gang switch and has an extra connector marked 2 way.

Click to expand...

That switch requires a NEUTRAL connection.

Do you have a neutral connection? (some witing schemes will have a N at the light switch, most won't)

If no neutral, just what did you connect to the N terminal? (please tell me not the earth)

If there is no neutral at your light switch, you cannot use that type of switch. End of.

@ProDave

i think that switch  does not need a neutral....

quote from page link

When wiring a 3 - 5 Watt dimmable LED lamp, use the LED adapter (included) to stop flicker

Live wire dimmer switch, no neutral required, works with existing wiring

On the old 2 gang switch was the  2 way for upstairs light and the 1 way for downstairs light? And are you replacing it with a 1 gang 1way? You may have 2 different circuits on different sides of rcd's and by connecting them together it will trip the rcd 

daveygh said:

On the old 2 gang switch was the  2 way for upstairs light and the 1 way for downstairs light? And are you replacing it with a 1 gang 1way? You may have 2 different circuits on different sides of rcd's and by connecting them together it will trip the rcd 

Click to expand...

It was an 2 way for upstairs and 1 way downstairs but was being replaced for the same just a different switch.

Sounds like another touch switch for the upstairs one too but just wanted advice on the wiring now really.

The black and the red from the single switch should remain on its own on 1 side of the switch. The other 3 core should be totally separate on the other switch 2 way. Do you have a picture of the switch you have ?

daveygh said:

The black and the red from the single switch should remain on its own on 1 side of the switch. The other 3 core should be totally separate on the other switch 2 way. Do you have a picture of the switch you have ?

Click to expand...

These euro switches only have one live input so maybe there won't be a way around it as lighting on different circuits for different floors.

Here is ab image of reverse of switch

Is there no installation instructions sheet that came with the switch, showing which terminals supply and load are connected onto? To me that just looks like a single gang 2-way switch. L = common L1 & L2 = strappers

Doc H.

Doc Hudson said:

Is there no installation instructions sheet that came with the switch, showing which terminals supply and load are connected onto? To me that just looks like a single gang 2-way switch. L = common L1 & L2 = strappers

Doc H.

Click to expand...

There is, live into L, and then light feeds into L1 and L2.

I'm just not sure which is the live feed coming from the 2 way switch and have red, blue, and yellow instead of red and black.