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S.p.lunn electrical ltd

Towel rail contoller

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S.p.lunn electrical ltd

I have a problem with two electronic controllers fitted to two separate towel rails 600watts each they have touch control with 5 leds showing on full power you can then control heat output by reducing power so go from 5 leds showing to 4 then 3 2 & 1 on full power no problem but if you reduce power by pressing down button so reducing power by 20% for every led that gos out we then get lights all over house pulsing or flickering turn back to full power and it stops. Anybody got an answer to as why this is happening on low power 

 

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Andy™

possibly a loose connection somewhere

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S.p.lunn electrical ltd
2 minutes ago, Andy™ said:

possibly a loose connection somewhere

Both towel rails are spurred off local ring main have checked all local connections and all ok do I need to check all connections on that ring all the way back to consumer unit 

 

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Andy™

well if its on the sockets but the ights flicker then id start by checking everything they have in common...

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Geoff1946

More details on the lights needed to make any sensible guesses. Are we talking about a conventional  lighting circuit?  Lights plugged into the ring?  Are dimmers/electronic controllers involved?

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binky

sounds like the controllers are faulty to me?

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S.p.lunn electrical ltd
17 minutes ago, Andy™ said:

possibly a loose connection somewhere

 

3 minutes ago, Geoff1946 said:

More details on the lights needed to make any sensible guesses. Are we talking about a conventional  lighting circuit?  Lights plugged into the ring?  Are dimmers/electronic controllers involved?

 

7 minutes ago, Andy™ said:

well if its on the sockets but the ights flicker then id start by checking everything they have in common...

 

3 minutes ago, Geoff1946 said:

More details on the lights needed to make any sensible guesses. Are we talking about a conventional  lighting circuit?  Lights plugged into the ring?  Are dimmers/electronic controllers involved?

 

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S.p.lunn electrical ltd

Contoller is the Tesla tcp200 thermal contoller plate 

pulsing is happening on recessed led lights,old tungsten bc bulbs ,12volt dicoric bulbs and table lamps plugged into ring it doesn’t seem to affect cfl lamps 

and only on low power 

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S.p.lunn electrical ltd
14 minutes ago, Geoff1946 said:

More details on the lights needed to make any sensible guesses. Are we talking about a conventional  lighting circuit?  Lights plugged into the ring?  Are dimmers/electronic controllers involved?

 

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binky

Have you checked they are wired correctly? I generally find oddity faults are nuetral issues, now if L and N are reveresed at the controller it could be causing this oddity? (Check Fused spur as well, had something similar where spur was wired incorrectly.)

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S.p.lunn electrical ltd

Contoller is Tesla tcp 200 thermal control plate

pulsing is happening on recessed led lights,old tungsten bc bulbs,12volt dichoric

lamps and table lamps plugged into ring it doesn’t seem to affect cfl lamps and only on low power

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ProDave

These are only 600W heaters.  At anything other than full power they switch on and off at a variable duty cycle to give the lower power.

 

If a 600W load turning on and off in the house is causing the lights to flicker I would be very worried that you have a high supply impedance?  What happens to the lights when  you turn a really big appliance like a kettle on and off?  

 

What testing have you done? The first thing I would want to know is Ze

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S.p.lunn electrical ltd
2 minutes ago, binky said:

Have you checked they are wired correctly? I generally find oddity faults are nuetral issues, now if L and N are reveresed at the controller it could be causing this oddity? (Check Fused spur as well, had something similar where spur was wired incorrectly.)

 

Just now, ProDave said:

These are only 600W heaters.  At anything other than full power they switch on and off at a variable duty cycle to give the lower power.

 

If a 600W load turning on and off in the house is causing the lights to flicker I would be very worried that you have a high supply impedance?  What happens to the lights when  you turn a really big appliance like a kettle on and off?  

 

What testing have you done? The first thing I would want to know is Ze

 

Just now, ProDave said:

These are only 600W heaters.  At anything other than full power they switch on and off at a variable duty cycle to give the lower power.

 

If a 600W load turning on and off in the house is causing the lights to flicker I would be very worried that you have a high supply impedance?  What happens to the lights when  you turn a really big appliance like a kettle on and off?  

 

What testing have you done? The first thing I would want to know is Ze

 

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S.p.lunn electrical ltd

Customer has said this only happens when the controllers are on low power and doesn’t happen at any other time, electricity supply company have been out and checked things on their side and said all ok .the house is a very large old farmhouse with several sub -mains dotted about the house and I would say some of the wiring dates back to the sixty’s they also have pc panels on the roof 

 

 

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Geoff1946

Beware, *customer said". !!

 

Have you seen the fault? Can you reproduce it?  Assuming you can, check if it's one of the sub-mains or more.  Can you see voltage fluctuation on your meter? 

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S.p.lunn electrical ltd
14 minutes ago, Geoff1946 said:

Beware, *customer said". !!

 

Have you seen the fault? Can you reproduce it?  Assuming you can, check if it's one of the sub-mains or more.  Can you see voltage fluctuation on your meter? 

Will go back and check for voltage dips and check ze and see if any loose connections thanks for advice everybody 

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Andy™
Just now, S.p.lunn electrical ltd said:

Will go back and check for voltage dips and check ze and see if any loose connections thanks for advice everybody 

 

l-n loop imepdance would be more appropriate than l-e, although its its TNCS then it should be the same

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phil d

The first thing you need to know about farms, especially older ones is that they are like no other installation you'll ever work on. In my experience, and I've had loads with farms, anyone who can fit a plug is classed as an electrician! Point 2, there is generally no such thing as a division of circuits, if you connect it and it works, then that's fine. I've seen sockets on light circuits, lights on socket circuits, I even know of one with a bathroom heater on the lights, it blows the fuse, so stick a bigger one in! 

Seriously it could be any one of a number of things causing the problem, and don't take it as red that the place has been rewired, "it was rewired about 5 years ago mate" one farmer told me when I went to investigate a persistantly blowing fuse, the only thing it didn't have was varnished cambric! there was some lead sheathed, some rubber sheathed, and some pvc sheathed, "honestly mate, it had a full rewire" insisted the farmer.

I've seen bits wired in cable used in mines, because the pit electrician was a friend of the farmer, rcd sockets with no earths attached, you name it and I've probably seen it, there is an old saying in the police force and it applies equally well in our job, A B C, Accept nothing, Believe nobody and Challenge everyone, remember that and you'll not go far wrong.

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ProDave

A farm won't be tncs.  If you are lucky there might just be a rod somewhere.

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binky

could just be that Tesla make ****e controls?

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Doc Hudson

What items have you actually proved so far? And what are your test readings?

 

Doc H.

 

 

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Sharpend
19 minutes ago, Doc Hudson said:

What items have you actually proved so far? And what are your test readings?

 

Doc H.

 

 

 

This is absolutely essential, I really don’t understand these electricians that profess to be professional in the trade yet time and time again fail at the first hurdle. If you don’t test anything then how do you know what you’re dealing with? We have heard from several esteemed members on another post about fault finding and the first thing that comes to light is they have actually carried out some form of testing to diagnose or narrow down the issue. 

Sure there will be times that a curve ball is thrown in and a post about it is helpful to get others input/experience but to attend a customers property and not carry out any testing is an insult to your customer then to ask on a forum with nothing for members to go on other than a customers hearsay is exactly what is wrong with this trade. 

 How much experience do you have?  

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phil d
13 hours ago, Sharpend said:

 

This is absolutely essential, I really don’t understand these electricians that profess to be professional in the trade yet time and time again fail at the first hurdle. If you don’t test anything then how do you know what you’re dealing with? We have heard from several esteemed members on another post about fault finding and the first thing that comes to light is they have actually carried out some form of testing to diagnose or narrow down the issue. 

Sure there will be times that a curve ball is thrown in and a post about it is helpful to get others input/experience but to attend a customers property and not carry out any testing is an insult to your customer then to ask on a forum with nothing for members to go on other than a customers hearsay is exactly what is wrong with this trade. 

 How much experience do you have?  

That is what worries me these days, the number of jobs I've been to and they've had a high earth loop, which a previous spark hasn't found, or when you get the MFT out and the customer looks at it and says" ooh, what's that for? never seen one of those before".

The really scary one was last year, got talking to a bloke at an event, he was a little younger than me, a short course chap, said he loved the forums because if he came across something he wasn't sure how to deal with then he'd ask on one of them!

I don't claim to be perfect, there are sparks who are better than me, there's also a lot who are worse than me, what I can say hand on heart is that I always do my best and I'll never leave an installation in a dangerous condition. I don't understand people who have test kit and don't use it, lets be honest, you can buy a lot of beer for the price of a decent MFT, if you aint going to use the tester, then you may as well buy the beer instead.

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Evans Electric
On 29/11/2018 at 19:57, phil d said:

The first thing you need to know about farms, especially older ones is that they are like no other installation you'll ever work on. I

Submit this comment to memory ...it should be written into the Regs .  

 

I think the first thing I'd do is to chuck the controllers into the nearest skip .     Some of these hi - tech  accessories  are the work of the Devil Himself !!  

A common thing I don't like with them is they don't actually ever switch off  ..... as in  a 3mm gap etc  .   

Edited by Evans Electric

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phil d
On 01/12/2018 at 20:26, Evans Electric said:

Submit this comment to memory ...it should be written into the Regs .  

 

I think the first thing I'd do is to chuck the controllers into the nearest skip .     Some of these hi - tech  accessories  are the work of the Devil Himself !!  

A common thing I don't like with them is they don't actually ever switch off  ..... as in  a 3mm gap etc  .   

But only if the skip is one designated for the recycling of electrical stuff, otherwise you'd have those "green" people chasing you, lol

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