Towel rail contoller

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I have a problem with two electronic controllers fitted to two separate towel rails 600watts each they have touch control with 5 leds showing on full power you can then control heat output by reducing power so go from 5 leds showing to 4 then 3 2 & 1 on full power no problem but if you reduce power by pressing down button so reducing power by 20% for every led that gos out we then get lights all over house pulsing or flickering turn back to full power and it stops. Anybody got an answer to as why this is happening on low power 

 
More details on the lights needed to make any sensible guesses. Are we talking about a conventional  lighting circuit?  Lights plugged into the ring?  Are dimmers/electronic controllers involved?

 
possibly a loose connection somewhere


More details on the lights needed to make any sensible guesses. Are we talking about a conventional  lighting circuit?  Lights plugged into the ring?  Are dimmers/electronic controllers involved?


well if its on the sockets but the ights flicker then id start by checking everything they have in common...


More details on the lights needed to make any sensible guesses. Are we talking about a conventional  lighting circuit?  Lights plugged into the ring?  Are dimmers/electronic controllers involved?

 
Contoller is the Tesla tcp200 thermal contoller plate 

pulsing is happening on recessed led lights,old tungsten bc bulbs ,12volt dicoric bulbs and table lamps plugged into ring it doesn’t seem to affect cfl lamps 

and only on low power 

 
Have you checked they are wired correctly? I generally find oddity faults are nuetral issues, now if L and N are reveresed at the controller it could be causing this oddity? (Check Fused spur as well, had something similar where spur was wired incorrectly.)

 
Contoller is Tesla tcp 200 thermal control plate

pulsing is happening on recessed led lights,old tungsten bc bulbs,12volt dichoric

lamps and table lamps plugged into ring it doesn’t seem to affect cfl lamps and only on low power

 
These are only 600W heaters.  At anything other than full power they switch on and off at a variable duty cycle to give the lower power.

If a 600W load turning on and off in the house is causing the lights to flicker I would be very worried that you have a high supply impedance?  What happens to the lights when  you turn a really big appliance like a kettle on and off?  

What testing have you done? The first thing I would want to know is Ze

 
Have you checked they are wired correctly? I generally find oddity faults are nuetral issues, now if L and N are reveresed at the controller it could be causing this oddity? (Check Fused spur as well, had something similar where spur was wired incorrectly.)


These are only 600W heaters.  At anything other than full power they switch on and off at a variable duty cycle to give the lower power.

If a 600W load turning on and off in the house is causing the lights to flicker I would be very worried that you have a high supply impedance?  What happens to the lights when  you turn a really big appliance like a kettle on and off?  

What testing have you done? The first thing I would want to know is Ze


These are only 600W heaters.  At anything other than full power they switch on and off at a variable duty cycle to give the lower power.

If a 600W load turning on and off in the house is causing the lights to flicker I would be very worried that you have a high supply impedance?  What happens to the lights when  you turn a really big appliance like a kettle on and off?  

What testing have you done? The first thing I would want to know is Ze

 
Customer has said this only happens when the controllers are on low power and doesn’t happen at any other time, electricity supply company have been out and checked things on their side and said all ok .the house is a very large old farmhouse with several sub -mains dotted about the house and I would say some of the wiring dates back to the sixty’s they also have pc panels on the roof 

 
Beware, *customer said". !!

Have you seen the fault? Can you reproduce it?  Assuming you can, check if it's one of the sub-mains or more.  Can you see voltage fluctuation on your meter? 

 
Beware, *customer said". !!

Have you seen the fault? Can you reproduce it?  Assuming you can, check if it's one of the sub-mains or more.  Can you see voltage fluctuation on your meter? 
Will go back and check for voltage dips and check ze and see if any loose connections thanks for advice everybody 

 
The first thing you need to know about farms, especially older ones is that they are like no other installation you'll ever work on. In my experience, and I've had loads with farms, anyone who can fit a plug is classed as an electrician! Point 2, there is generally no such thing as a division of circuits, if you connect it and it works, then that's fine. I've seen sockets on light circuits, lights on socket circuits, I even know of one with a bathroom heater on the lights, it blows the fuse, so stick a bigger one in! 

Seriously it could be any one of a number of things causing the problem, and don't take it as red that the place has been rewired, "it was rewired about 5 years ago mate" one farmer told me when I went to investigate a persistantly blowing fuse, the only thing it didn't have was varnished cambric! there was some lead sheathed, some rubber sheathed, and some pvc sheathed, "honestly mate, it had a full rewire" insisted the farmer.

I've seen bits wired in cable used in mines, because the pit electrician was a friend of the farmer, rcd sockets with no earths attached, you name it and I've probably seen it, there is an old saying in the police force and it applies equally well in our job, A B C, Accept nothing, Believe nobody and Challenge everyone, remember that and you'll not go far wrong.

 
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