Screwdriver bit research

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Armeg UK

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Hi TEF,

Just doing a bit of research and wondered if anyone could help.

I was curious as to what the most common screwdriver bits are in common usage?

I think PZ2's is a given but have noticed an increase in the amount of Torx screws on the market. With this in mind :-

  • Which sizes do you buy regularly?
  • Which sizes would you like to be able to buy in bulk (5's, 10's, 25's etc.)



Any responses will be greatly received. Feedback like this is what gets products to market that you actually want instead of stuff that's been decided by someone sat at a desk😊

When this project gets to market there may be some samples knocking about 😉

Cheers

Phil.

 
PZ2 most common, would be very useful if more manufacturers made longer length bits as getting hold of 100mm long bits is a pain in the ass, PH2 for tapcon screws and walldogs. There is a increasing amount of fixings that have a T25/T30 heads. Longer bits would be useful to buy in packs of 5 or even maybe 3 and smaller usual sized bits packs of 10 as a minimum. Always happy to help if you need anything field testing 😉 

ps

Used a Aceller8 Holesaw for the first time today what an amazing piece of kit will be buying the other sizes to keep on the van, keep up the good work.

 
PZ2 or PH are the most common bits used.

Sometimes use Robinsons number 2's and small torx.

Only really buy a few at a time as I don't seem to get through them that often.

Mostly use flat heads, if you can find a way of making them any use in an impact driver that would be great.

On the subject of impact drivers, hss bits with a 1/4 inch hex shank aren't that widely available and I would by lots of those! 

:)

 
The thing is this: a good quality set of torx  bits will last for many a year usually the threat of pilfering or absent mindedness is the biggest problems. So I’d suggest having a look at the competition as to what they provide then add some USP perhaps a mix of lengths and make them out of good quality materials at a price that can be justified to the wife/partner as they’re the ones that usually object and I’d say most would purchase a couple of sets :C  

well that my tuppence worth. 

 
As said ... PZ2  has to be the main one  .  (  Personally I hate all these other things with a vengeance ,  Torx  etc  )   The other week  I went to connect a cooker , it had three different screw  heads on the back  , including the terminals  which were Torx. 

More magnetic bit available would be a luxury .   

Oh   And how about a (-) (+)  driver  , whatever they're called ,    that doesn't break off  after a weeks use  on fitting boards .   I had three makes all lettuced out  within a month ...CK ...a German one  and a Spanish one  .  

I think I ended up with four makes  , only one has survived .

 
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As I said , four known makes  , only one survived  .   I took one with me to  the trade show  ...is there a Wira  or something ,  produced it from my pocket much to the guy's alarm , told him it was a piece of lettuced .  I was hoping for a replacement  but he didn't want to know ...the tossers stand there all day expounding on the values of the product ..........if you shove a broken  one under their nose  they can't deal with it .  

 
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PZ2 then PH2 then, 10mm nut spinner, 6mm hex then probably torx25.

Renovating a new But old house for myself just now and it is all flat heads I am taking out, you easily forget how much of a pain these are as wood screws.  I have a plastic tub full of boxes of brand new slotted screws that I have never looked in for years.

I tend to buy the 50mm long impact bits (CK) as I have found them to be good, funnily enough it was a freeby from the CK forum sponsor on here that got me started on them 2 or 3 years ago.

 
PZ2 most common, would be very useful if more manufacturers made longer length bits as getting hold of 100mm long bits is a pain in the ass, PH2 for tapcon screws and walldogs. There is a increasing amount of fixings that have a T25/T30 heads. Longer bits would be useful to buy in packs of 5 or even maybe 3 and smaller usual sized bits packs of 10 as a minimum. Always happy to help if you need anything field testing 😉 

ps

Used a Aceller8 Holesaw for the first time today what an amazing piece of kit will be buying the other sizes to keep on the van, keep up the good work.
Thanks Jono, all good info there. Also compounding what I had set in my mind as well. We already do 75mm long bits but not 100mm and they're only available in multi packs with other bits or drill bits at the minute. Hopefully that will change with my constant badgering!!!

Also thanks for the positive comments on the Acceler8. It really is one of our most popular products at the minute. There are a lot of copies coming through on the market now but ours remains the best (testing competitors products is part of my job!!) Keep an eye out in the first part of next year, there is an Acceelr8 promotion in the offing in our wholesalers including the introduction of twin packs 😊

Thanks again,

Phil.

 
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PZ2 or PH are the most common bits used.

Sometimes use Robinsons number 2's and small torx.

Only really buy a few at a time as I don't seem to get through them that often.

Mostly use flat heads, if you can find a way of making them any use in an impact driver that would be great.

On the subject of impact drivers, hss bits with a 1/4 inch hex shank aren't that widely available and I would by lots of those! 

:)
Hi Duck, thanks for that. I thought the Robinsons were dying out. What do you use them for?

The problem with flat heads in impact drivers is that the bit slews sideways out of the screw slot due to the action and speed of the impact driver. I don't think we'll ever get away from that and may be why they're not as common nowadays.

HSS bits with a 1/4" hex shank you say? Interesting!

https://armeg.com/news/2018/12/04/make-an-impact-pt-2/

https://www.armeg.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=69&product_id=129

Thanks for the feedback 😊

Phil

 
The thing is this: a good quality set of torx  bits will last for many a year usually the threat of pilfering or absent mindedness is the biggest problems. So I’d suggest having a look at the competition as to what they provide then add some USP perhaps a mix of lengths and make them out of good quality materials at a price that can be justified to the wife/partner as they’re the ones that usually object and I’d say most would purchase a couple of sets :C  

well that my tuppence worth. 
Thanks Sharpie,

I've been looking at the competitions ranges. We also have a little bit of a USP 😉. The different lengths may have to come later, without giving too much away, they will not be a standard length to start with and could be made in different lengths moving forwards.

Good quality materials is a given. 

As for justifying to the Wife/partner, you're on your own there🤣

Thanks again

Phil.

 
As said ... PZ2  has to be the main one  .  (  Personally I hate all these other things with a vengeance ,  Torx  etc  )   The other week  I went to connect a cooker , it had three different screw  heads on the back  , including the terminals  which were Torx. 

More magnetic bit available would be a luxury .   

Oh   And how about a (-) (+)  driver  , whatever they're called ,    that doesn't break off  after a weeks use  on fitting boards .   I had three makes all lettuced out  within a month ...CK ...a German one  and a Spanish one  .  

I think I ended up with four makes  , only one has survived .
Thanks EE,

Unfortunately I think Torx is the way forward. A lot of screw manufacturers are going that way because of the more positive drive and less chance of "camming" out. The torque they can apply is greatly superior to PZ as well.

Magnetic you say?🤔😉

We do +/- drivers and blades for our Torque Screwdriver sets and we are forever getting people breaking the smaller one. The main reason they break is when the smaller one gets used in a screw that should have been tightened with the bigger one. When the smaller one is used in this way there is movement between the tip and the screw recess and all the force is applied over less surfaces than its designed to. Any movement between bit/blade and screw recess will cause problems. This movement can be caused by many different factors. Wrong tip for the screw in question is just one. Others are as follows

  • Worn screw recess
  • Poorly manufactured screws
  • Tip not being held perpendicular to the screw head.

With +/- drivers their almost exclusive use is in RCBO's etc. and some manufacturers of these things put the screw heads down a very long narrow tunnel. This sometimes causes problems when the large +/- driver won't fit down the hole due to the VDE insulation. For this reason, some people use the smaller +/- thinking it should do the trick. The maximum recommended torques for our blades tells an interesting story

  1. +/-1 blade maximum recommended torque   -   3.5Nm
  2. +/-2 blade maximum recommended torque   -   8.2Nm

Thanks again,

Phil.

 
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PZ2 then PH2 then, 10mm nut spinner, 6mm hex then probably torx25.

Renovating a new But old house for myself just now and it is all flat heads I am taking out, you easily forget how much of a pain these are as wood screws.  I have a plastic tub full of boxes of brand new slotted screws that I have never looked in for years.

I tend to buy the 50mm long impact bits (CK) as I have found them to be good, funnily enough it was a freeby from the CK forum sponsor on here that got me started on them 2 or 3 years ago.
Thanks Roys, yeah slotted screws are only ever any good when driving by hand really aren't they?

What do you use the 6mm hex for?

Yes, the 50mm impact bits are popular products in our range too (and we do 75mm long 😉)

Thanks again,

Phil

 
Thanks EE,

Unfortunately I think Torx is the way forward. A lot of screw manufacturers are going that way because of the more positive drive and less chance of "camming" out. The torque they can apply is greatly superior to PZ as well.

Magnetic you say?🤔😉

We do +/- drivers and blades for our Torque Screwdriver sets and we are forever getting people breaking the smaller one. The main reason they break is when the smaller one gets used in a screw that should have been tightened with the bigger one. When the smaller one is used in this way there is movement between the tip and the screw recess and all the force is applied over less surfaces than its designed to. Any movement between bit/blade and screw recess will cause problems. This movement can be caused by many different factors. Wrong tip for the screw in question is just one. Others are as follows

  • Worn screw recess
  • Poorly manufactured screws
  • Tip not being held perpendicular to the screw head.

With +/- drivers their almost exclusive use is in RCBO's etc. and some manufacturers of these things put the screw heads down a very long narrow tunnel. This sometimes causes problems when the large +/- driver won't fit down the hole due to the VDE insulation. For this reason, some people use the smaller +/- thinking it should do the trick. The maximum recommended torques for our blades tells an interesting story

  1. +/-1 blade maximum recommended torque   -   3.5Nm
  2. +/-2 blade maximum recommended torque   -   8.2Nm

Thanks again,

Phil.
Thank you for the reply ,  very informative .      I'd forgotten about the smaller size +/-     drivers   , they fit the neutral & earth bars in boards  but every one I bought sheared off .      I can see what you mean about Torx  screw heads  .   I think some manufacturers need to address the use of  multiple screw heads , causing an installer to jump from one to the other .   

 
Personally, I wouldn't use Armeg stuff these days, it's carp! years ago I used to use Armeg masonry bits, they were great,used to buy the long ones too, but a couple of years ago at one of the shows I wasted money on a set of Armeg, 'nail proof' wood bits. First time I clipped a nail with one and it was goosed, I bought a set of Irwin ordinary bits and they were a lot better,and cheaper it would take a lot to persuade me to go back to the Armeg stuff again. 

 
Personally, I wouldn't use Armeg stuff these days, it's carp! years ago I used to use Armeg masonry bits, they were great,used to buy the long ones too, but a couple of years ago at one of the shows I wasted money on a set of Armeg, 'nail proof' wood bits. First time I clipped a nail with one and it was goosed, I bought a set of Irwin ordinary bits and they were a lot better,and cheaper it would take a lot to persuade me to go back to the Armeg stuff again. 
Hi Phil,

We're disappointed you feel all our products are "carp". We're sorry the isolated incident you had with one of our Nail Proof WoodBeavers has affected your views on our brand. We produce a myriad of products and it's great to hear you're a fan of our masonry bits.

Did you contact us about the issue you had with our Nail Proof Wood Beavers? If so, what was the outcome? The Nail Proof WoodBeaver range is one our best selling lines and has a reputation for minimal quality issues, so we'd have been keen to discuss any potential problems you had.

If you still have the goosed Wood Beaver, I'd be more than willing to take a look at it for you. DM me for details on how to return - we're always here to help.

Phil. 

 
Thank you for the reply ,  very informative .      I'd forgotten about the smaller size +/-     drivers   , they fit the neutral & earth bars in boards  but every one I bought sheared off .      I can see what you mean about Torx  screw heads  .   I think some manufacturers need to address the use of  multiple screw heads , causing an installer to jump from one to the other .   
Thanks for that EE.

Yes, it would be good if screw manufacturers got their heads to together and introduced some commonality. Unfortunately we are deeply entrenched in existing products and manufacturing processes so I feel we're a long way off that yet.

I feel that the whole Torx thing only came about due to increased impact driver usage and increased torque output within that power tool range. An exercise to improve drive and less chance of "camming" out.

Phil.

 
Hi Phil,

We're disappointed you feel all our products are "carp". We're sorry the isolated incident you had with one of our Nail Proof WoodBeavers has affected your views on our brand. We produce a myriad of products and it's great to hear you're a fan of our masonry bits.

Did you contact us about the issue you had with our Nail Proof Wood Beavers? If so, what was the outcome? The Nail Proof WoodBeaver range is one our best selling lines and has a reputation for minimal quality issues, so we'd have been keen to discuss any potential problems you had.

If you still have the goosed Wood Beaver, I'd be more than willing to take a look at it for you. DM me for details on how to return - we're always here to help.

Phil. 
Quite strange indeed the last time i hit a nail with one of those it went straight through the nail and kept on going, with minimal damage i might add. 

 

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