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Gwalk

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Hello all,

I have a circuit that feeds my electrical job and cooker in my fuse board, it went bang, so I decided to test cooker and the hob, which goes through a switch. When I tested the hob I was only getting around 180v but it’s was jumping lower, I then tested across the common buzz bar in the fuse board to the put going cable and I’m still getting around 180v, the common is receiving 240v from the main. I have tested from the out going live to the Neutral and Earth and not getting anything so I think that is fine and there is a good connection on both. Any ideas?

 
Not much that you have said makes sense other than to demonstrate you don't have much understanding of electrics so you would do very well to call an electrician who can test and diagnose the fault safely.

 
There is a volt drop between the common (live) and the out going cable, inside the fuse board, why would the happen?

 
The fuse is fine hence why there is voltage at the load it’s just that it should be 240v but there is only 170/180v at load. The outgoing cable from the fuse board is fine it’s just the link from the common buzz bar through the fuse to the out going cable where it’s dropping voltage 

 
Start with basics. Is the buzz bar fixed correctly into the Mcb? Similarly is the outgoing cable caught in the right side of the cage and not just resting behind it? 

 
The fuse is fine hence why there is voltage at the load it’s just that it should be 240v but there is only 170/180v at load. The outgoing cable from the fuse board is fine it’s just the link from the common buzz bar through the fuse to the out going cable where it’s dropping voltage 
No it is not. If it was fine everything would be working.

 
Or your testing device is faulty. The simple fact is if this was a problem you could solve, you wouldn't be asking on here. From your opening statement something has gone bang? This requires far more extensive investigations than just measuring voltages at random points in your fuse box. The quickest, cheapest, safest and most efficient solution is to employ a competent person to diagnose the cause of the original problem, carry out any appropriate remedial work. Then re-test to verify everything is still electrically safe and compliant with current wiring regulations.  The only other option is to randomly swap wires and take readings until something changes or not.

Doc H

 
Any low voltage or "voltdrop in the board" will not be the cause of your circuit going bang. It may be a result. but not a cause. First of you will need to carry out dead tests on the circuit to verify the integrity of the wiring, before even venturing into looking at any voltages.

Doc H

 
Well if you actually read that that has been written you’d realise that the issue is likely to be something to do with the connections at the ‘fuse’ and not the fuse itself. 

I believe that this is what ‘prodave’ is alluding too. 

Perhaps it’s not his knowledge that is flawed but maybe your understanding? 

 
So your saying everything would be fine if I changed the fuse? Come on now “prodave” this seems to be the extent of your knowlege 
This forum does not like insults.  If you think my knowledge is lacking then ignore it.

As I have said before you don't have the knowledge to solve this yourself, call an electrician before you hurt yourself or anybody else.

It is a VERY simple circuit. There is a connection from the busbar to the fuse or mcb (you still don't seem inclined to tell us which) and then from the fuse or mcb to the outgoing terminal.  There are very few places it can go wrong and it should be pretty simple and obvious to trace it through until you find where the break is.

 
So your saying everything would be fine if I changed the fuse? Come on now “prodave” this seems to be the extent of your knowlege 


So how about elaborating upon...

A) what test equipment you are using...

B) what actual test you have done...  

C) how you have deduced that the outgoing cable is fine...

D) what sort of protective device is actually in your board...

Rather than moaning back at someone who pointed out quite correctly that your earlier statement that the fuse was fine is completely un proven by the information you have provided so far.

The fuse is fine hence why there is voltage at the load it’s just that it should be 240v but there is only 170/180v at load. The outgoing cable from the fuse board is fine it’s just the link from the common buzz bar through the fuse to the out going cable where it’s dropping voltage 


What instruments, connected between where, have you used to reach the above opinions???

How up-to-date is the test instrument calibration??

:C

 
I then tested across the common buzz bar in the fuse board to the put going cable and I’m still getting around 180v, the common is receiving 240v from the main. I have tested from the out going live to the Neutral and Earth and not getting anything so I think that is fine and there is a good connection on both. Any ideas?
The first bit sounds like you have the tester in series .

Then you say you tested  from the outgoing live   (  Presumably the top of the fuse /MCB   and get nothing  ...but you think that is fine   when actually it isn't fine . There should be 240 V  showing between  fuse outgoing terminal and   neutral bar .  

So as the others are saying .. there may be something wrong with the fuse /MCB   

Listen to what these guys are saying ...answer their questions and you may get somewhere ..chucking insults in  won't work on this Forum . 

 
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