Consumer Unit Fitted Cover/Box For Other Items.

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Ed51

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Hi,

Have just had a new consumer unit fitted, all tested and signed off. In attached photo can see some of original board components visable. Can I contrive some kind of wooden box with door, or does it have to be fireproof, metal? Any ideas on how to make cover and attach it?

Thanks

Consumer Unit On Board.JPG

 
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I'd just build a wooden cupboard with a door , the  board is metal which satisfies the Regs , the mains gear is'nt included  in our Regs . 

Can't help wondering why theres a separate RCD  in the mains .., could have been in the board .  ..never mind.

 
As above. The CU has be be 'non-combustible'. 

You can make a box round the entire board with wood if you want.

Make sure an electrician can still get the cover off the CU easily though, when required.

 
Obviously short on space.  I would have removed that up front rcd and fitted an all rcbo board in there. That would have given you a little more space for the CU. And I would have changed those tails out of the isolator.

 
If you can construct some sort of cover arrangement that can be completely removed with some suitable brackets, screws, battens etc that would be an enormous benefit for anyone who has to come and do any maintenance, alteration or inspection work at a later date. Nothing worse than a beautifully crafted wooden boxed cover, that only has a small access door to allow the MCB/RCD to be operated but no space to get a screwdriver in to add that new circuit for the garden hot-tub.

Doc H.

 
It’s not going to be easy to box that lot in. There’s no room at the left hand side and you have the door architrave below and a loft hatch above. If you could get a frame made then you could make a front cover and attach it with keku clips which would mean it would be fully removable. 

 
Make the cover out of white hardboard with a small 1/2” x 1/2” frame, rest the bottom piece on the architrave, a piece of 1” x1/2” batten to right side fixed to wall, take the front tight to the left wall with batten of same, either screw to battens or use alternative fixing-  magnetic, ball catch etc. It will be light enough to hold in place. You can then paint it to match wall, a little caulk up edges for decorative blend, easily removable if needed. Of course this is all dependant upon the distance of loft hatch from wall? 

 
Make the cover out of white hardboard with a small 1/2” x 1/2” frame, rest the bottom piece on the architrave, a piece of 1” x1/2” batten to right side fixed to wall, take the front tight to the left wall with batten of same, either screw to battens or use alternative fixing-  magnetic, ball catch etc. It will be light enough to hold in place. You can then paint it to match wall, a little caulk up edges for decorative blend, easily removable if needed. Of course this is all dependant upon the distance of loft hatch from wall? 
What your saying seems to be the right approach, thanks. I'm intending to have the new CU visable but contrive some type of box with door or sliding opening, cover the stuff to the right hand side of CU. Any more advice on your construction approach, welcome.

 
It’s not going to be easy to box that lot in. There’s no room at the left hand side and you have the door architrave below and a loft hatch above. If you could get a frame made then you could make a front cover and attach it with keku clips which would mean it would be fully removable. 
Just had a quick Google, and saw a you tube those keku clips seem easy, peasy 123..... I'll have a think cheers:)

 
Piece of 4x1' no nailed to architrave head below board....full length

ditto up hfs of board

ditto adjacent wall.....but this can be narrower as it is only providing a ground for the left side

in effect you will,have formed a wooden "U" along 3 sides of board

fix a front on using magnetic catches

sort of like this

View attachment 10219
OK thanks I see your idea. I'd need to check for clearance when hatch drops down, just had a look, don't think the hatch down would clear the 4 x 1

 
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I can't see any earth from the head so likely the rcd is the 100mA S type for a TT system. DP rcbos to enure discrimination in the event of a  N-E fault would have been nice, but...

 
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