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corax

Bathroom extractor fan

Question

corax

Hello

 

Wondering if someone can give me some advice. I have an s&p td silent fan that I want to use as a bathroom extractor fan. I'm looking to run the fan (no timer or humidistat) from a switch outside the bathroom by turning the existing 1 gang light switch to a two gang. Is this possible? Would I just connect the fan cable to the 2nd gang of the switch?

 

Thanks in advance for any insight

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Geoff1946

Depends if the circuit neutral is also available in the switch box.

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ProDave

.... and the practicality of getting a new cable from the switch to the fan, which depending on the house construction may mean chasing a new cable into the wall.

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corax

should be easy enough to get the cable from the switch to the fan as have plasterboard walls

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Murdoch

Out of interest why do you want it on a seperate switch?

 

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ProDave
3 minutes ago, Murdoch said:

Out of interest why do you want it on a seperate switch?

 

I have always done that in my own house, so you can go for a pee in the night without the fan noise, and only use the fan when showering (or making a smell)

 

Never do it in a rented property, tenants can't be trusted to actually use the fan when showering,  for them it has to be automatic with no way to turn it off (no fan isolator switch)

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binky

I like 2 lights in bathrooms, main lighting and a dimmer single  light (can be something like an illuminated mirror) for those midnight piddles.

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kerching
1 hour ago, binky said:

I like 2 lights in bathrooms, main lighting and a dimmer single  light (can be something like an illuminated mirror) for those midnight piddles.

For the purpose of nocturnal micturation  I have a PIR in the ceiling. This switches 1 LED mini spot mounted in the wall at low level adjacent to the bog. This also has the advantage that when the grandchildren visit they are not searching for a switch, they just go in and on comes the light. Simples.  Saves them having to remember to switch it off afterwards as well

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Murdoch

The way I did ours, is the light over the shower and the fan are on 1 (short) pull cord and the other lights are on a 2nd (longer) pull cord. Then there is the option of the illuminated cabinet too.

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corax

OK so on further inspection getting a cable up through the wall is not that easy. As an alternative can I just power the fan from one of the existing 50w downlights? i.e. run a two core cable from the live and neutral of the downlight to the live and neutral of the fan?

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Murdoch
Just now, corax said:

OK so on further inspection getting a cable up through the wall is not that easy. As an alternative can I just power the fan from one of the existing 50w downlights? i.e. run a two core cable from the live and neutral of the downlight to the live and neutral of the fan?

 

 

Probably, and being perdantic it needs to be 3 core 

 

oh, and  1 further question - are your lights LV or 230v?

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corax

they are 230v GU10's. What would I use the 3rd core for? There doesn't seem to be any earth for the fan and on the downlights the earth is just folded back..

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Murdoch
Just now, corax said:

they are 230v GU10's. What would I use the 3rd core for? There doesn't seem to be any earth for the fan and on the downlights the earth is just folded back..

 

do you have a copy of the regs? 

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corax

Hello, no was hoping this was a diy job to be honest, would you recommend getting someone in?

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Murdoch
Just now, corax said:

Hello, no was hoping this was a diy job to be honest, would you recommend getting someone in?

 

There is a requirement to provide an earth at every point in a 230v circuit and continuity of which needs to be confirmed back to the fuseboard. This is especially important in bathrooms. 

 

I would recommend you get this checked by a spark with a suitable tester - and just for good measure all changes to lighting circuits require RCD protection.

 

Hope this helps

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corax

ah ok, sounds like this job is maybe a bit beyond me then. Thanks for the info

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Evans Electric

1)   If you wire fan from a downlight , it will only work while the lights are on .

 

2)  If you get a  cable down to your wall switch and a  neutral from  one of the lights  you can switch it on  & off at the wall .  

 

As said above  ,  as electricians we are obliged to work to the Regs ...generally speaking   DIYers  do  as they like . 

 

 

Edited by Evans Electric

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Murdoch
Just now, corax said:

ah ok, sounds like this job is maybe a bit beyond me then. Thanks for the info

 

Maybe post your location and see if anybody on here is close to you?

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corax

sure am in East Lothian here, let me know if anyone is in the area

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Risteard
57 minutes ago, Murdoch said:

 

 

Probably, and being perdantic it needs to be 3 core 

 

oh, and  1 further question - are your lights LV or 230v?

Being pedantic 230V is low voltage.

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Murdoch
34 minutes ago, Risteard said:

Being pedantic 230V is low voltage.

 

You know that, I know that.

 

Joe Public thinks 12v is low voltage

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Evans Electric

So do I  TBH   .      I 've always thought the change to calling 240V    "Low Voltage"   is one of the most  ludicrous ideas ever  mooted by the IEE   .    

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kerching
49 minutes ago, Evans Electric said:

Low Voltage"   is one of the most  ludicrous ideas ever  mooted by the IEE   .    

Oh, I don't know....forgetting to put RCD sockets and Spurs into the 18th edition I think must come close to the winning post

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Evans Electric

Photo finish  there then !! 

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