Cooker Terminal Block wiring

Quick question about wiring a cooker terminal block.  Just had new cooker delivered which the installer fitted for me.  Switched it on, set the clock (the only load at this point - no oven on) and after about 2 minutes sat there the RCD tripped (whole house off).   Reset, powered on again, reset the clock and it tripped again.  
 

The Cooker was connected to a new point that was fitted a few days ago by our electrician.  I say new, the wiring has been in place for years however he had fitted a new Isolator switch box and double socket.

To get to the point (!) the installer left the cooker disconnected and I took look at the terminal block after he’d gone.  The picture below is from the installation manual; the live should be connected to terminal 3 with shorting links 1-2 and 2-3.  The installer had actually fitted the live cable to terminal 1 (I’ve drawn the line in).  The shorting links were correct.  
 

My question is then does it actually make a difference if the Live is connected to 1 or 3?  I’ll get my electrician in to sort it out but I don’t want to call him out if it’s just something this simple.
 



This is the panel after I reconnected the Live to the correct terminal:

No it makes no difference.  And being pedantic you also have the neutral in the "wrong" terminal but again it makes no difference.

Get your electrician back to test what is going on.  It is perfectly possible that the oven is faulty, or the wiring somewhere else is faulty.

Dare I ask if said electrician did any form of testing and leave you the details?

Murdoch said:

Dare I ask if said electrician did any form of testing and leave you the details?

Click to expand...

He did test it but didn’t leave details.  He’s a good guy who I’ve used before.  I’ll get him back in to take a look.

Thanks for the replies

Chances are the cooker has been in storage for a while and one or more of the elements will have absorbed some moisture from the atmosphere.

Murdoch said:

Dare I ask if said electrician did any form of testing and leave you the details?

Click to expand...

dont see how thats relevant? if did test the circuit then that wouldnt make any difference to the cooker not working. its also unlikely that he fully tested each and every element in the cooker. you cant easily test some of them anyway without dismantling it and testing directly on the elements, so reasonably high chance that even if he did 'test' on install, a faulty element wouldnt be found

fault is probably a damp element. any decent electrician should be able to get it on to heat it up for a bit to see if it does dry out

The Op suggests that the trip occurs without any elements being turned on?

 Just the clock!

Also it appears to be a single RCD protecting the whole house...

It could be a small amount of natural leakage through the cooker...

combining with some existing leakage on other house circuits..

Causing sufficient to trip the RCD...?  :C

OR  it could be a poor IR between conductors in the supply circuit..

It would be interesting to know the IR test readings for the cable..

Trapped wiring in the back of the isolator switch box could cause the described symptoms...   :C

various possibilities...

But back to basics I would still want to know the supply cable is all good and sound...

I'd do full dead circuit tests whenever connecting new cooker or shower.. 

Just to eliminate any stupid call backs later.

opcorn  

What does the connection look like in the Cooker Connection Unit (the plate on the wall behind the oven)?