2 way lockable switch

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I can't locate a key lockable switch that is 2 way - they all seem to be just double pole.

I want to put one in an IP66 1 gang enclosure and wire it 2 way with an indoor switch for some exterior lighting

Is the only solution to use a standard 2 way switch in a lockable enclosure? (not quite the same thing though)

 
But take care in your choice.

The majority are aimed at security applications with low voltage and current ratings. 

Many more will only release the key in one position; I imagine you want to remove it in either.

 
yes there are lots of options you just need to pick the one you need , I would say one N/O one N/C set of 230 volt, 10Amp contacts, with a key that can be removed in any position, also a stay-put type would do your job.

 
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yes there are lots of options you just need to pick the one you need , I would say one N/O one N/C set of 230 volt, 10Amp contacts, with a key that can be removed in any position, also a stay-put type would do your job.


I should have mentioned in my original post that I intend to switch about 300W of LED lighting.

I've spoken with Schneider about this and they've been very helpful, but they don't have a product like this so they have suggested a switch actuator, a set of contacts and a contactor as they don't have contacts that can switch the load involved. I could do this but can I get just a key switch that will do this from a different manufacturer?

 
Ok, so why would a 10amp switch not be good enough ?

300w LED @12Volt = 25Amp 

LED's are feed by a transfromer 

230 volts down to 12 volts

300w (the same watage ) but now at 230 volts now that's 1.3 amps 

So if you switch before the transformer(230 side ) it's only 1.3 amp and if you switch after the transformer (12 volt side) it's now 25 amps 

 
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Ok, so why would a 10amp switch not be good enough ?

300w LED @12Volt = 25Amp 

LED's are feed by a transfromer 

230 volts down to 12 volts

300w (the same watage ) but now at 230 volts now that's 1.3 amps 

So if you switch before the transformer(230 side ) it's only 1.3 amp and if you switch after the transformer (12 volt side) it's now 25 amps 


The LED lamps are 230v. (15 lamps @ 20W)

So a 10 amp switch would be good enough but Schneider tell me they don't have the contacts for a key switch capable of switching 300W LED @ 230V so suggested a contactor.

 
Apologies, I'm unfamiliar with this sort of kit.

Schneider initially suggested this to me 

https://www.se.com/ww/en/product/ZB5AZ105/single-contact-block-with-body-fixing-collar%2C-plastic%2C-screw-clamp-terminal%2C-1-no-%2B-1-nc/

which seemed ideal, but like the product you found the spec states:

[Ie] rated operational current                                               3 A at 240 V, AC-15, A600 conforming to EN/IEC 60947-5-1

I assume they are concerned about in rush current associated with LEDs

 
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