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voltage two probe testers


ladyspark

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hi

i have been given a draper vT1 two probe voltage tester, how do you use them to find the live black wire from the other two neutral black wires? and are they safe to use?

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to id which is live, you will need another reference, i.e earth conductor. some testers (like the fluke T140 & others) dont need both leads, it will show as live when one probe touches anything live (but needs second lead to give you a voltage)

dont know the exact specs of yours, but its safer than a neon deathscrewdriver

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It's one of these

You need to do as Andy says and test each wire with reference to earth. The power needs to be on so be very careful, but the unit itself is fully insulated.

Neutral to earth should give no reading but live to earth will light up, as would live to neutral.

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hi

i have been given a draper vT1 two probe voltage tester, how do you use them to find the live black wire from the other two neutral black wires? and are they safe to use?

You turn the circuit off and check for continuity between red & black.... not voltage:O:O

When the switch is open you get no continuity

When the switch is closed you get continuity

Then mark the switched live with some Red or Brown sleeving before you forget which one it is;);)

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You turn the circuit off and check for continuity between red & black.... not voltage:O:O

When the switch is open you get no continuity

When the switch is closed you get continuity

Then mark the switched live with some Red or Brown sleeving before you forget which one it is;);)

If you don't have a continuity meter you could measure voltage!

Carefully!

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If you don't have a continuity meter you could measure voltage!

Carefully!

If you don't have a continuity meter you shouldn't be doing this kind of testing...

Get someone in who can do it safely...

ELECTRICITY CAN KILL... without warning!!

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many better quality testers like this can test continuity along with voltage.

and you should have marked the black wire before the light was removed

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many better quality testers like this can test continuity along with voltage.

and you should have marked the black wire before the light was removed

I have a Fluke T50 with a continuity function. I sometimes use it to verify that the circuit is off before I do anything.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fluke-T50-T-50-Voltage-Continuity-Tester_W0QQitemZ260385949328QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET?hash=item3ca0364690&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

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Sometimes use it? it should always be used to make sure something is dead before you play with it!

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Sometimes use it? it should always be used to make sure something is dead before you play with it!

I usually use one of these :P

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they can be dangerous and give false readings. you should only use something that has direct contact to check its dead. although i have used similar detectors in the past

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are these things insulated ?if they are not safe to use why are the allowed to be sold ?and how you suppose to test wires ,i have heard so many different opinions it`s mind bending, all i want to do is to test a wire and i may get electricuted, i only bought this one because it was recommended by an electrician if it`s so dangerous why are all you electricians out there still alive?

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Because we mainly don't work live....

for one it's dangerous

and two, it's against HSAWA

P.S. Perhaps you should change your user name to "LadyNotASpark", because the name implies that you are

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the only parts uninsulated are the probes which make contact. no-one has said they are not safe for use?

this is a basic model, but as long as you test it on a known source when isolating, it should tell you its the cable is dead/live (but if you only test between live and neutral, it will not show if neutral is isolated by live is really live - which is why you must also check between live-earth and neutral-earth)

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what you mean you don`t work live ,so you can tell if a wire is live just by looking at it ?,there is always a wise guy, i maybe a lady but i do know the basics you know, i do not go around toughing electric wires ,i only ask about the testing ,because the light fitting broke and i was left in a position were i could not tell which wires are which,because the electrician who fitted the fixture last time never marked the wires and done a rubbish job, or it would not have fallen to bits when i went to change the light bulb,is that not dangerous,that is why i am doing the job myself,you charge far to much anyway,a lot of us have to because we can`t afford your prices,also i ask about the tester because i have not had to use one before,as i always know which wires are which because i put tape on them.

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so you put cost over your life?

as already pointed out, a voltage tester is not the way you would find which wire is to the switch. whilst a voltage tester can be used to ID incoming supply to light, it will not tell you which of the remaining 2 is the switch, and which is the loop to next light (although it may work if the light in question is end of line).

people have tried to give you advice, but you just sound like you want to ignore it. and i never said i dont work live, because i do at times. and im sure everyone else here has (even if they dont want to admit it)

and finally, by your last comment, i assume you do this often? in which case, you should know what your doing, and if you are a 'spark', you should be fully aware which test equipment you use to ID a switch wire

Now go get your yellow pages and look under either

Electrician

or

Funeral Director

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2 points -

!st point - We are not too expensive we charge enough to make a living thats it. Do you appreciate the costs invloved in being a qualified spark? Have you considered the

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ok you have made your point about the tester ,if i thought 1 could get the job done that cheap without a doubt i would get an electrician, but the price quotes i have got are nowhere near as cheap as that, more like

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ok you have made your point about the tester ,if i thought 1 could get the job done that cheap without a doubt i would get an electrician, but the price quotes i have got are nowhere near as cheap as that, more like
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I said we mainly don't work live,, not that we don't!

But then again we have respect for electricity and have had training so that we know what we are doing and how to reduce the risks.

But the way that we would identify a switched live is; firstly we would switch the circuit off and prove that it's dead, then we would separate the (normally 3) pairs of cables at the fitting and check for continuity across the red and black whilst operating the switch. When you find the right pair you will have continuity when the switch is on and you won't when it's off. You then need to mark the black as the switched live, all the reds, earths and neutrals should be put into separate connectors. Your light then connects to the switched live, neutral and earth (if required).

I was not trying to be a smart guy, just trying to give you some some advice so that you can sort this problem out safely. If you don't manage it yourself then I as others on here would charge about

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2 points -

!st point - We are not too expensive we charge enough to make a living thats it. Do you appreciate the costs invloved in being a qualified spark? Have you considered the

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ok you have made your point about the tester ,if i thought 1 could get the job done that cheap without a doubt i would get an electrician, but the price quotes i have got are nowhere near as cheap as that, more like
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