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may have F**ked up!


danny7299

Question

I have been getting my job's together to register with NICEIC Domestic. And there are something is wanted to check...

The Major Job is a kitchen Extension, with bathroom and changing room above it.

Due to the way the house was laid out, I decided to run a sub feed to the Extension and run all new cables to the new Dis board. In hindsight I should have done this in SWA but I clipped 16mm T&E to the ceiling Joist before the ceiling went up. But I didn

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SPECIAL LOCATION
I undestood it that no 240V switch gear should be in the bathroom in or out of zones, apart from pull switch because of suitability for the environment. However, talk nicely to inspector bloke and go 'oh silly me look what I did, v sorry won't do it again, promise to fix soonish' and he'll probably let you off anyway.

another old MYTH I am afraid!

BS7671 pages 165 to 169 covers regulations for rooms containing a bath or shower.

e.g.

701.512.2 External influences.

zone 0 at least IPX7.

zone 1 and 2 IPX4.

OUTSIDE OF ZONES... no major problems UNLESS exposed to water jets

e.g. for washing down / cleaning at least IPX5.

i.e.

3pole Isolators,

fused spurs

light switches

CAN be installed INSIDE the bathroom..

provided not in zones 0,1 or 2!

even a socket outlet can be fitted if its 3m horizontally from edge of zone 1

STEAM and moisture are not much worse than in a kitchen during cooking where sockets & switches can be within 300mm of ovens sinks etc.!!!

:|

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SPECIAL LOCATION
Only if suitable for enviroment so I would not put a normal light switch in any bathroom. Could use mk masterseal though

Normal light switch is suitable provided you are not hosing your walls down.

and its outside of zones.;)

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Normal light switch is suitable provided you are not hosing your walls down.

and its outside of zones.;)

Bit like I said then :P

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SPECIAL LOCATION
Binky - thought you could now have a normal light switch or even a socket outlet if outside of zone?

Correct Patch!:DApplaud SmileyGuiness Drink

you could have a normal switch outside of zones in old regs as well!

ye old zone 3 requirements referenced to IPX5 IF communal baths & showers where wall may be hosed down for cleaning.

reg 60106-01, Bottom of page 135 old brown book!

your average domestic bathroom is an environment with minimal adverse external influences......

other wise the wallpaper would keep falling off the walls

and the towels on the towel rail would be dripping wet

and you would never have found a bathroom with carpet

cuz it would have been sodden!

:|

I think some contractors avoid putting anything in a bathroom for fear of sticking it in the wrong place.:(

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SPECIAL LOCATION
Bit like I said then :P

calm down boy...

I was answering your bit as well!

Blushing:x:^O:p

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The Godfather

I'm not sure about admins view, but Danny no need to use such abbreviated words on the title of your thread.

'Messed up' would of been fine, in the Don's book.

The Godfather

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Been fitting 3 pole switchs for a while now so cant quite remember but if the bathroom has a window do you need a switch if not could you blank plate it for the inspection.

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Been fitting 3 pole switchs for a while now so cant quite remember but if the bathroom has a window do you need a switch if not could you blank plate it for the inspection.

Good idea to fit a switch for maintanance and if it goes wrong customer can isolate without calling sparks.

Batty

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I undestood it that no 240V switch gear should be in the bathroom in or out of zones, apart from pull switch because of suitability for the environment. However, talk nicely to inspector bloke and go 'oh silly me look what I did, v sorry won't do it again, promise to fix soonish' and he'll probably let you off anyway.

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Binky anything like that I use a drylining box in the ceiling, I am finniky. It wouldnt take much to swap a 3 pole switch over to a 3 pole pull cord switch.

AndyGuiness Drink

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Fair enough

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Good idea to fit a switch for maintanance and if it goes wrong customer can isolate without calling sparks.

Batty

and the instructions will say you have to have one along with a 3A fuse usually.

If it was for my assessment i would put a lockable switched fused spur in the feed for the bathroom and remove the local isolator, i cant see how you can wrong doing this.

Is the fan of a appropriate IP rating for its position?

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and the instructions will say you have to have one along with a 3A fuse usually.

If it was for my assessment i would put a lockable switched fused spur in the feed for the bathroom and remove the local isolator, i cant see how you can wrong doing this.

Is the fan of a appropriate IP rating for its position?

Only problem with this if you switch spur of lighting will be off to. I think fan switch should be enough that way with fan switch off it is isolated and it also gives people option of having it off or not at night.

Batty

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accepted i would not wire it like this in my bathroom but if its for my assessment and the customer didnt state they want a accessible kill switch for the fan i woudnt install one.

i cant see a spur controlling the fan and lighting a non compliance? but i could be proved wrong.

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accepted i would not wire it like this in my bathroom but if its for my assessment and the customer didnt state they want a accessible kill switch for the fan i woudnt install one.

i cant see a spur controlling the fan and lighting a non compliance? but i could be proved wrong.

I have always only used fan isolation switches and no spurs and never have had problems on my assessments.

Batty

Plenty of sparks put no isolators in at all.

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My understanding:

1. 16mm2 T&E will need RCD protection if installed less than 50mm in a WALL........

2. Isolator OK if outside zones, otherwise doesn't comply

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I`d concur with this mate. why would you have used SWA?

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I undestood it that no 240V switch gear should be in the bathroom in or out of zones, apart from pull switch because of suitability for the environment. However, talk nicely to inspector bloke and go 'oh silly me look what I did, v sorry won't do it again, promise to fix soonish' and he'll probably let you off anyway.

Binky - thought you could now have a normal light switch or even a socket outlet if outside of zone?

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Binky - thought you could now have a normal light switch or even a socket outlet if outside of zone?

Only if suitable for enviroment so I would not put a normal light switch in any bathroom. Could use mk masterseal though

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simply because that what me old boss made me do in that past...

so the real isue is the isolator, the customer hasn;t got the plumber to 2nd fix yet and by the sounds of it when the NIC come round it still wont be 2nd fixed. any other options if it is in zone 2?

dont think you can get a pull chord can you? he he

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