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moose man

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hi any plumbers on here

i have a volera 726 the problem is that it wont presherise i have checked

the filling loop and water is comeing out up to the next value they is a stop cock on that valve which is ok any ideas it s running on 0.5 bar

thanks moose man

 
Is it filling and then loosing pressure again or just not filling in the first place? Is it a built in filling loop (on the boiler) or is it part of the pipework below. If the latter there is usually 2 valves to open. Has it ever filled up. Check valve may be on reverse.

Photie may help the situation.

 
it is part of the pipe work below the one part is a 3 poistion tap up is boiler mid is off

and bottom is loop this is on the rh side and they is a tap on the lh side which

is on 22mm pipe it as working fine then lost presure and wont fill by the loop

all the valves are the correct direction

 
Not terribly helpful but most pressurised boilers (all?) have a component that blows if the pressure gets too high. Designed to fail for safety sake. Forget what they call it but it may need physically replacing.

 
Not terribly helpful but most pressurised boilers (all?) have a component that blows if the pressure gets too high. Designed to fail for safety sake. Forget what they call it but it may need physically replacing.
All pressurised systems of any sort will have a PRV somewhere, unless it's been bodged in. As these are not used very often bits of grit and crud build up around them so if they are opened then the grit and crud jams them open, so sometimes removing and cleaning works. As it's a safety device though, I'd usually replace them but it can sometimes get the heat back on and confirms the fault.

 
You can normally hear the water rushing through the valve/tap when you open it to fill her up. Do you hear this. If not, or if no water is escaping the prv as above then probably a knackered valve/tap. Sometimes the balls stop turning even through the lever still turns.

 
You can normally hear the water rushing through the valve/tap when you open it to fill her up. Do you hear this. If not, or if no water is escaping the prv as above then probably a knackered valve/tap. Sometimes the balls stop turning even through the lever still turns.
The water is flowing up to the central heating flow valve so i think the ball valve is working but can not here the water flowing when loop pipe is connected dont mean to sound thick but what is a prv

thanks moose man

 
PRV is the pressure relief valve which prevents a dangerous build up of pressure by venting the excess pressure outside. Is the arrow on the non return valve pointing towards the boiler?
it pointing in the direction of the water flow to the l/h side

 
when you try to fill the system, can you hear water flowing through filling loop?

have you opened both valves? do all arrows point in the direction to flow (cold to heating)

 
Think one of the filling valves in kaput! Disconnect flexible filling loop, and carefully open one valve a little bit (bucket under the end could be advisable!)

I think you may find that the handle turns, but the valve doesn`t open. Either that, or there is ANOTHER valve further back, which has turned water off.

One other thought just occured to me. IF the flow & return taps below the boiler are off, the rads ARE pressurised, up to the cold water pressure, but the gauge won`t show anything, as the boiler is "empty"!. That would explain not hearing it - the system may be at mains pressure!!!!!

Check the valves on the boiler manifold, ensure they`re all open.

HTH

KME

 
is the valve actually turning? if the plastic handle breaks, it may not be gripping the valve enough to open it, but enough resistance to make you think its doing something

 
The prv is the pressure release valve as mentioned above. You have tested the water upto the boiler you said. So that just leaves the 'other' valve which i'm guessing is a check valve (1 way with arrow on). So even if you took the filling loop off and opened the valve, no water would come back through it. Seems though the system is already low on pressure my next step would be to drain the system down enough to undo the non-tested valve and then open it to test if it is working. My personal thought is that it wont be. Replace if required and fill her back up. Bleeding radiators as per norm. Dont forget that if you completely drain down. Any inhibitor will have been drained down and should be replaced.

Looks like it's going to be a chilly xmas.

 
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