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  2. Your a very naughty boy, confusing someone who was woken up at 1 am by some cretin with a car radio, then again at 4 by a couple of idiots having a domestic on my front, I wouldn't mind but they live further down the street. lol I know where you're going with the 2 singles though, in fact, I think it actually said in the 15th, one double or two singles, I was going to say that common sense should be applied, but then I remembered, wasn't that banned around the same time that RCD's became a form of primary protection. lol
  3. Thanks Spesh, really helpful, will have a look and let you know. The only thing about having the fan on longer is that most of the time it isn't ideal, eg quick toilet, bed time etc, but if that is the only option I guess it will have to be....
  4. Andy™

    ACT 4000 pro door access controls.

    i use these for data sims https://www.aa.net.uk/ would be easier hard wired though? bit dd to have mobile data links
  5. Today
  6. binky

    ACT 4000 pro door access controls.

    I've had a good poke around the system today, the little white box you can see the corner of beside the main control panel contains a sim card and is wired to the 'doors' comm controls in the main unit. There's actually 3 of these boxes to link to 3 different parts of the building, with no hard wiring exept to the one door that works with the new cards, so I'm guessing no one's paid the phone bill for the sim cards or renewed the contract. Out of interest, does anyone know of a company that does sim cards only for this sort of application?
  7. The timer adjustments are normally something like the little black variable resistor that I have just highlighted in your photo... A fine blade screw driver into the white bit should allow it to turn with very light finger pressure... IT WILL NOT ROTATE FULL 360degree.. there will be a stop point which if you force it can break the adjuster! generally clockwise increase / anti-clock decrease... If you can turn power off try giving it a tweak then gently take it all the way clockwise.. Then restore power see how long it runs then... You could also try repeat the above for the full anti-clockwise position.. to see what the shortest time is. It may sort your problem just having it running longer.. But as has been said you do need enough flow of air coming in so other air can get out. Have you taken the inner cover off to dust off the fan blades....? I use a soft half-inch wide paint brush for dusting these sort of things... It is amazing how much muck sticks onto a moving blade!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  8. SPECIAL LOCATION

    Anyone come across this very often ?

    I/ I doubt he's proved anything to be the cause.. 2/ A floating earth wire could have any "apparent voltage" floating on it with a cheapo plumbers meter.. 3/ There is a requirement in the regs to run a CPC to all accessory points.. If said item is ClassII they generally have a clump of brass with a hole in it and screw as somewhere the park the unused CPC. Other than that the CPC is doing nowt! 4/ The order of the LEN, LNE, NLE, NEL, ELN, ENL is purely down to the logistics and costs of the circuitry inside the accessory and how their gubbins connects easiest. 5/ Assume plumb-bob is an incompetent baffoon until you have proved other wise.. 6/ Could easily be an earth fault anywhere else on the heating system, that only goes live because the thermostat has kicked in. thus causing a current to trip the RCD.. 7/ Has the full circuit been IR tested... Has the RCD been tested... If Not.. BACK TO BASICS!
  9. Hi Doc, love the Avatar There is no over ventilation in the room, no windows, there is a gap under the door but not big enough to get my fingers under, can just about get my finger tips there. I am a ground floor flat so any ducting doesn't go above I presume, there are vents at the side of the building so maybe it is linked to them? If so that would be several metres of duct. The fan turns off about 2 minutes after the light goes out, so not sure how to adjust that? Regards, Martin.
  10. Plumber just phoned me ... hes installing a wet floor heating system somewhere , he's limited scope qualified for boiler electrics . Part of the system is a RF stat which he traced to being the cause of tripping the RCD . Fitted another one , same thing , multimeter shows 50V on the Earth wire of both stats. (Meter between disconnected E wire & E bar .) Manufacturer tells him to get an electrician in. This what I'm asking . He says the terminals on the stat are marked L E N clearly . I'm thinking we don't see that very often and its just waiting for someone to connect it L N E . I'm thinking fluorescent light fittings are often like that but not devices like his stat . I'm also thinking as the stat is apparently plastic , why does it need an E connection unless its to dump data down ? Or is it trying to use the E wire as an aerial . ?
  11. Evans Electric

    Adding Spur sockets

    I know it used to say that , I was being a bit sarcastic TBH ....which is very naughty & I apologise .. . The way I see it is , the regs will never stop the DIYer doing exactly what he thinks is correct ...they are aimed at us . And in my humble opinion , whatever the Regs say , 2 single sockets on an unfused spur will be fine . If concerned , introduce a 13A spur unit. If anyone chooses to alter or mess with an installation , they assume the responsibility that we assumed in the first instance . You cannot cater for every future eventuality ....yes someone could plug in a couple of multi sockets then plug in eight 2KW fan heaters , overloading the spur leg. But I do despair at the over complication of stuff these days .
  12. Case in point...security guard at work literally just asked me to OK his plan for a bathroom heater. Ground floor rented flat with an upstairs containing just a landing and bathroom. No socket outlets upstairs. He wants to fit a 2kW wall mount heater in the bathroom. His plan...run an extension lead from a socket outlet downstairs and site the outlet somehow on the wall "just outside the bathroom". Then plug the heater in and take flex from here "under the door" and into mini trunking to the heater above the window. Why is this wrong he asks! Foreign lad btw. Previously asked me if he could "pour water" into a burnt out 2G socket that keeps burning out to force the landlord to sort it Reminds me of my old man who was a British Gas technical rep. Went to a property. Large landing upstairs, 4 families, one in each room. 4 gas cookers on the landing fed from a gas fire point. All run in green garden hose!
  13. Hello MartyJ, welcome to the forum. Are there any other openings in the room such as vents or windows. If the room has no other openings, is the fan operating correctly with a suitable duration of run-on timer? (building reg's recommend 15minutes). How long is the ducting before the vent reaches outside? Many people have a fan that is only on while they are in the room that then goes off immediately they leave. This will not have sufficient time to remove residual moist air / steam so will promote mould growth etc. Also to extract air out, there must be an equivalent vent size letting air come into the room. (otherwise the fan is trying to create a vacuum.) Typically with an enclosed room this requires a 10mm gap under the bottom of the average 760mm door to allow a standard 100mm diameter extractor vent pipe to pull in the same volume of air. Again many people have plush fitted carpets in the adjoin room so there is no inlet ventilation to the en-suit. (a simple test to check the gap is can you poke you fingers under the en-suit door from both sides?). Providing you have appropriate inlet ventilation, adequate timer run-on and the extract duct is not several meters long though the loft void, then the fan should do the job. It looks like a Greenwood Airvac to me? But if there are several metres of duct to reach the outside it would be better with a higher power in-line centrifugal fan. Doc H.
  14. Your sparky will assess all the points that have been mentioned hopefully, inspecting and testing the existing installation before correcting any faults, select the correct components & cable to repair or upgrade etc. Most of this he'll do without involving you because it's second nature and he's trained and competent to do it. For people here to simply tell "you" how to do this properly they would have to touch on initial verification, testing and inspection, volt drop, safe isolation techniques, notifiable works etc. For instance did you know that running a cable under insulation for a certain distance and you may need to HALVE the current carrying capacity of that cable. Issues are frequently come across where existing electrical installation cables, in a loft are covered up by masses of new insulation and the "shower" cable or whatever subsequently melts. Get any of those wrong and you or a loved one could end up dead. Honestly, no one is being melodramatic or anything. I wish you all the best in getting it sorted
  15. Hi all, My property is 13 years old and the extractor fan in the ensuite is rubbish. Lots of moisture left after a quick shower, mirror covered, noisy, Sonu think it needs replacing. I'm not sure if it is standard though, and what the best one to replace it with is, and if it is a job a novice DIYer can do? It has an isolation switch which is currently off. Also, I know it needs a clean, I have cleaned it recently! Thanks as always, Martin.
  16. Welcome to the forum, A bit of background detail may help you make your decision. An RCD is a safety device designed to protect against electrical shock. It measures any current leaking from the circuit. It must NOT operate at 15miliamps or less, but MUST operate at 30miliamps or greater as that is sufficient to kill a healthy adult. (That is 0.03Amps, remember your socket circuit could allow over 1000 times this amount of electricity to flow through it in normal use if it is rated at 32Amps). So we are talking exceptionally small amount of electricity leaking, but some appliances also have natural leakage, especially computer equipment. So if you have multiple appliances with sufficient natural leakage then they can trip an RCD. Or an RCD may be over sensitive and tripping too early. Wiring regulations do say that installations must be designed to minimise inconvenience in the event of a single fault (Reg 314). I would suggest that either your RCD is oversensitive or your installation has insufficient RCD's per the quantity of final circuits. Probably the latter, it is easy for someone with an appropriate tester to verify if you RCD is operating correctly, probably just a standard 1hour call out charge. In an ideal world every circuit would have its own RCBO, but they are more expensive than standard MCB fuses which is why a lot of electricians & customers opt for the cheaper, but potentially far more inconvenient option. An individual RCD board may well solve your problem as you can get similar issues with some makes of electric ovens/cookers as they can have natural leakage, also old fluorescent tube fittings, so the more potential leaky appliances you have sharing a single RCD, the greater the risk of inconvenience. Doc H.
  17. Please understand, that whilst we are willing to assist Diyers we have to understand your level of knowledge and capability, we are not elitists however we all have to understand that electricity kills and if you should misunderstand the advice given and subsequently have an accident who would you come after? It’s far better for us to assess your capability and if we are in doubt to advise that you obtain the services of a suitable electrician who can always give you advice based on what he/she has in front of them.
  18. If I remember correctly, the last time I looked it said 1 double or 1 single, it used to say 1 double or 2 singles, I don't think it mentions that anymore though, I think it had something to do with the possibility of some diy'er opening up a socket, seeing 2 cables behind it and thinking it was on the ring and adding a spur. On the 17th it was 7.2.2, A non fused spur feeds only one twin socket or one permanently connected item, such a spur is connected at the terminals of a socket outlet, or at a junction box, or at the origin of the circuit in the distribution board. Sorry can't find my latest regs book at the moment, but I'd imagine it's still the same, although it did used to say 2 singles or 1 double years ago iirc.
  19. phil d

    Quality door entry manufacturer ?

    Agreed, Paxton every time, plus if you're not familiar with their stuff they do free training days around the country, I did one a couple of years ago.
  20. That maybe has given me the answer I want. Why do some of you so called tradesmen always want to be elitists? I'm in business myself and deal with customers all the time.I just wanted a bit of advice and constructive ideas....this seemed the ideal place for that as it had a DIY section. OK there were a couple of helpful posts but overall I've been left feeling a complete numpty how dare I even suggest doing anything myself. So Thanks but I'm off...you'll be pleased to hear I've found a helpful local sparky (well qualified) to sort this out.
  21. Andy™

    Quality door entry manufacturer ?

    videx do a prox system, but its not the easiest to delete / add fobs. paxton is very easy to do
  22. Or is it the way people receive it? Whilst Murdoch may be direct with his approach what he says isn’t actually wrong, so why do people take issue with the direct approach- perhaps it’s the nanny state that we live in where you offend people before you speak these days?
  23. it's not what you say, it's the way that you say it !
  24. binky

    Quality door entry manufacturer ?

    is it just 1 door or multiple? Paxton are good units, that ACT unit I posted about is very good, but probaby overkill for what you want. Think Videx do a swipe card option?
  25. Andy™

    Quality door entry manufacturer ?

    id be going with 2 manufacturers. videx for the intercom and paxton for the prox reader. paxton uses either cards or fobs. same sytem, just buy the card or fobs to go with it with paxton stand alone, if someone leaves and you cant to block their card, then you get the shadow card from the pack, put it on the reader and there now banned 1 system is connected to the door, the output from the other is connected to whatever you use to control the door what you could do if the intercom is working fine, either disconnect or change the code to the existing keypad, then fit a paxton prox reader and connect it to the intercom
  26. Onoff

    Another case of Big Brother watching ?

    Best we all throw our tellys away then: https://www.technobuffalo.com/wikileaks-cia-can-turn-your-smart-tv-into-a-surveillance-device%3famp
  27. @Murdoch's points are pretty valid imo. OP hasn't said how the cable in the loft is run, is it buried in insulation? Is the "ring main" cable really 2.5mm2? Earthing system at the cu might dictate whether 2 or 3 core swa be used, whether to put the garage on its own rod etc. Could just be a loose jb terminal.
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