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These are connected with a 13A plug - Q - is it then acceptable to plug one (permanently) into a spur as I believe spurs are suposed to be 2 sockets only... Ta

Is this what Wozz was talking about and I was asking about?

Not if you are a sparky and have 80cm of it in the van along with your wall chaser - however if you have to buy it specially (only in 3m lengths guv) it's a PITA , ditto fp200 - 30m roll and I need 80cm! Much easier for a "visible if you look for it" JB justabove the top of the chimney, to...

Would the conduit not have to be earthed to the appliance supply though? Meaning cutting into the cable and attaching it to the conduit ....(would have to destroy hood internals to get to its earth stud). At the moment I have the following answers : Use capping Capping no good, use 20mm...

Nope, thought of that, - chop the plug off the end and pull the cable through (with a mouse line attached of course!) As it will be secured top and bottom but left loose behind the glass....

That was part of my original question, - does the appliance create its own safe zone?

Nope, the chimney does not go all the way to the ceiling, therefore would need to conceal the cable above the chimney... which would not be a safe zone so back to square one! I can get power to it easily from the kitchen ring or hob (will use ring), it is just what needs to be done to comply...

Chimney does not go all the way to the ceiling - vents out the wall. Bungalow has shallow pitch flat roof so no real access from above, but good idea!

Yes I remember reading that on here, but not sure about it. - If that is correct then problem solved!

Thanks for that but it's a bungalow...! :| Isolation switch going elsewhere, the idea is not to have anything electrical visible, so pop up sockets, under cabinet sockets and cooker isolation switch. All the details here: http://www.talk.electricianforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=8878 Seems the...

.... or could I just install an empty box with a blanking plate - would look identical to a JB!

Well it is bonded and/ or screwed to the wall. With all of this armour plating required it will be much easier to run the cable all the way to the top of the (fake) chimmney, put a just visible JB in and run it all the way back down again.

hmm... was hoping for some common sense in the regs - it will be mechanically protected by 6mm of toughened glass! Does that not count? Yes, RCD protected Thanks

Hi All Another kitchen question... Installing a wall mounted extractor hood as pic , no units to side or above. ideally would like to cut into the wall and run its' (pre-attached, flex) cable directly down to below the work surface and right into the next cabinet to a patress socket box - ie...