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I am actually using some floodlights already, mounted on a tripod next to my desk and aiming them towards the wall/ceiling because they are too bright to look at directly.

Thanks for chiming in on this Dave, sounds like you're confirming my initial guess that the power ratings are about heat dissipation from the bulb and not electrical resistance in the fitting itself generating too much heat. That would imply that the thermal properties of the bulb matter a lot...

A couple questions: - Do you think the circuits wouldn't have reached steady-state temperature after two hours of use? I can certainly leave it on for longer if that's the case. - What other tests do you think I should do, and with what equipment?

I also opened up the fixture and touched all the contacts after I'd had the light on for a couple hours. All of them were barely warmer than room temperature. Humourme: to be clear I'm only ever talking in actual power drawn, not "equivalent" output.

I actually just replaced the old Bayonet pendant fixture with an E27 one a few days ago. I'm testing now by drawing 105W using a 7-way bulb splitter (replacing the corn bulb in the previous picture). The bulbs are warm to the touch but the fixture is room temperature.

I have a pendant light fixture which is rated at 80W, and I would like to understand why it is rated this way. From what I've read online, this is largely to prevent damage to the fixture from heat dissipated from the bulb. However, if the bulb is just hanging (see attached picture), isn't most...

Hi. I'm trying to set up some powerful lights in my room to combat SAD. Here to ask some basic questions!

I'm planning on running 1000W from a 5amp circuit (round pin, switched from the wall). At 230V, this should only draw 4.3amps, which is a bit close to the limit. Is there any danger here? I'm also thinking of putting a 5amp fuse in the plug just to be safe. I'm curious if the fuse orientation...

Just took apart the box and apparently the brand is "Hamilton Litestat". I'm curious if I can buy another switch from a different brand and have it fit.

Ok great, thanks for the help!

I have a switch box that I'd like to replace, but it seems to have non-standard screws, closer to the center than what I can find online. I'd like to know what standard this is so I can search for the right thing. Thanks!