Cooker control question

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typical.me

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Hi Guys, after more advice if possible !!

Ripping out my mum kitchen and fitting a new one, ceiling down for lights etc.

Question is regarding cooker/hob control.

Been told by supplier induction hob 7.5 Kw = 32 amps & Cooker 3 Kw = 13 amps (without applying diversion)

New 6 way (4 spare ways) consumer unit provided purely for kitchen arrangement, your views on circuit provision below,

1) 10mm t&e from consumer unit via 45a mcb to cooker control unit (with socket outlet), then

From ccu, 10mm to a click 45Amp double adaptor box which I could supply, hob via 6mm t&e, and cooker using 2.5mm to 13amp fused connection unit (or single socket outlet with cooker plug 13amp)

Or would it be better to supply 2 separate circuits with suitable protection and isolation at each final circuit, as the hob is rated at 32 amp and mcb is 45amp

I don

 
You can apply diversity if you want?

What you suggest seems logical, no different to all as 1 oven with hob.

The only remote possibility of a fault with one, will mean both have to be turned off. Remote chance, but possible.

 
Hi Batty,

thanx for reply,

dont want two seperate isolators above worktop, would prefer one control,for the overall appearance.

These are just ideas, the guys who fit kitchens seem to install them on inside of the carcasses, this is really my first full kitchen install,

cheers

Mick

 
Good Choice on hob type, It's the only electric hob i would ever contemplate using, very controlable, similar to gas but a whole lot more efficient, 90% in fact!!! Best piece of kitchen equipment i've ever bought, ...bar none...lol!!!

Can't see any reason why you would want to run these two cooker appliances in 10mm T&E. 6mm has proved more than capable for cooker loads upto 15Kw for more years than i care to remember.

Your aging mum will thank you for mounting the cooker switch(s) above the worktop rather than below believe me !!!! You can get very nice plated switches these days that won't distract from the overall finish. Feed them down to flush connection points, neat and practical as can be!!! ...lol!!! Do the same with any S/FCU for other under worktop appliances so that you don't have a fuse in a plug top popping, and having to drag the appliance out, just to replace a blown fuse...

A fitted kitchen just needs a little thought put into them to make them and your elect installation work best for you and your needs. And don't skimp on socket outlets, at least a double every linear metre of worktop....

 
Good Choice on hob type, It's the only electric hob i would ever contemplate using, very controlable, similar to gas but a whole lot more efficient, 90% in fact!!! Best piece of kitchen equipment i've ever bought, ...bar none...lol!!!Can't see any reason why you would want to run these two cooker appliances in 10mm T&E. 6mm has proved more than capable for cooker loads upto 15Kw for more years than i care to remember.

Your aging mum will thank you for mounting the cooker switch(s) above the worktop rather than below believe me !!!! You can get very nice plated switches these days that won't distract from the overall finish. Feed them down to flush connection points, neat and practical as can be!!! ...lol!!! Do the same with any S/FCU for other under worktop appliances so that you don't have a fuse in a plug top popping, and having to drag the appliance out, just to replace a blown fuse...

A fitted kitchen just needs a little thought put into them to make them and your elect installation work best for you and your needs. And don't skimp on socket outlets, at least a double every linear metre of worktop....
I run on the rule of thumb a double every 2' if a length, or at least one every place there is a worktop at all, ie, even on a little 500mm gap filler cupboard.

this doesnt include appliances on SFCU's .

 

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