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Insulation Resistance Testing of downlights
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<blockquote data-quote="Doc Hudson" data-source="post: 483474" data-attributes="member: 1607"><p>The "load" part of any electrical equipment, (lights/toasters/showers/boilers/T.V.s/garden pond pump/internet router/etc/etc/etc), is connected between the Live &amp; Neutral conductors. So as you suggest a 500v DC test between Live &amp; Neutral could damage any equipment vulnerable to IR test voltages, Or just give a low continuity reading through the equipment rather than testing the cable itself. Whereas if Live and Neutral are combined, i.e. they are both at the same potential and any tests between [Live &amp; Neutral combined] to [Earth] will only give 500v DC to earth. So potential between L-&gt;N is still = 0v and zero volts can't damage much. However it can still be good practice to test at 250v before doing 500v, Just in-case you have forgot something still connected, plus if you do get a low reading at 250v, you don't stand much chance of a clear test at 500v.</p><p></p><p>Doc H.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Doc Hudson, post: 483474, member: 1607"] The "load" part of any electrical equipment, (lights/toasters/showers/boilers/T.V.s/garden pond pump/internet router/etc/etc/etc), is connected between the Live & Neutral conductors. So as you suggest a 500v DC test between Live & Neutral could damage any equipment vulnerable to IR test voltages, Or just give a low continuity reading through the equipment rather than testing the cable itself. Whereas if Live and Neutral are combined, i.e. they are both at the same potential and any tests between [Live & Neutral combined] to [Earth] will only give 500v DC to earth. So potential between L->N is still = 0v and zero volts can't damage much. However it can still be good practice to test at 250v before doing 500v, Just in-case you have forgot something still connected, plus if you do get a low reading at 250v, you don't stand much chance of a clear test at 500v. Doc H. [/QUOTE]
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Insulation Resistance Testing of downlights
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