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Anyone Recommend An Adhesive ?


Evans Electric

Question

Evans Electric

Looking at a job to light a stable ,   client wants LED bulkheads which sould be fine .

 

However the construction is blockwork to 8 ft  then single sheet steel cladding .... I don't want to drill or pierce it with Drivascrews & then it starts to rust away or leak .........so thinking of glueing a squares of  20mm thick blockboard  to the sheeting & screwing the fittings to  them .      

 

So can anyone recommend an adhesive to stick wood to steel sheeting ?

 

Gripfill  type stuff ?

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20 answers to this question

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I have tried Gripfill type adhesives before on a similar application but they failed after about 4 weeks, I put that down to the metal getting hot during the day and cooling down at night, the expansion and contraction causing the bond to break. I ended up using roofing screws, the ones with the rubber washer, drilling through the metal and screwing into a wooden baton, worked a treat and no corrosion problems.

I have recently started using CT1 for flexible applications and Gorrila Glue for others, but don't know if I would trust them to support bulk heads.

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Evans Electric

Thats a good point Roys , thanks for that ...... in the summer that steel sheeting will be red hot .....great idea with the roofing screws  though ,  thats the way to go . :Salute

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Zeespark

Would fixings like wedge nuts be of any use Deke?

 

Andy Guinness

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Apache

Or mount a pole to the blockwork and attach the light to that? Secure fixing and leave the cladding untouched.

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SLIPSHOD & SLAPDASH

I personally would not trust adhesive alone in this case.

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Wonder if expanding foam would do the job. Supporting it whilst the foam sets might be the problem though...hmmm

I've also used stixall (i think it's called) It's a bit like gripfil, but it has a very high initial grab... It's about £7-8 a tube

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NozSpark

I'd go with roofing bolts and rubber washers....

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kerching

Roofing bolts/screws/rubber washers.....or PU adhesive sealer..comes in a mastic tube. Used for car body panels, sealing sunroofs etc. CT1 people have some new stuff called Multigrab ( i think).....stickier than a date with RR

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SPECIAL LOCATION

I personally would not trust adhesive alone in this case.

 

+1..

 

The only sort of adhesives that IMHO could do such a task would be some of the stuff used in the automotive industry where some components are glued together...

and have to put up with heat / vibration etc...

 

 

Oh...

 

Kerch has snuck in while I was typing with the car body stuff!!!!

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kerching

I am VICTORIOUS!

Used some PU ( non expanding type) on a job a couple of weeks ago as I had some left from fixing car sunroof.

Another option is some of the stuff SIKA use.

We used to do lectrics in tanked basements. No holes within 1m of floor or any corners, no drilling external walls. Conduits chased prior to SIKA tanking and held into chases with glue before gobbing up. Accessories held to wall with Sika adhesive. 30 years on all the stuff is still,stuck to the wall

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binky

roofing screws defo, if sill concerned about leakage past screw, then add a bead of silicone to top of fitting to prevent water accessing behind that part of the fitting where srews are. CT1 is brill, window grade silicone is good - UV stable

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kerching

Have you tried the Multisolve cleaner solvent from the CT people?

Use it to clean PRIOR to sealing. Use it again to "wet" your finger/tooling with before smoothing it out. F Brilliant!

Plus removes MOST sealers and those "stubborn sticky residues"

Just saying

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Blue Duck

Another plus for ct1, held the spoiler (factory item) on the car and various bits of the van together for years!!

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NozSpark

I have some Sikaflex 291,,,, f'in expensive,,,, £17 for a 300ml tube :o

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Evans Electric

I was thinking of gluing a peice of wood on the inside & screwing  an LED  Fern  Howard to it ....my thanks for the info on all the glues but I think I'll use the roofing screws through from outside .

 

I'd hate to get the phone call that all fittings are swinging loose after a blazing hot summer.

 

I did a stupid thing years ago   (Well did a lot of stupid things TBH , this was one of them )  ...    1st fixed an office in an old building in twin /earth  ...thinking containing the connectors for the heat resist flexes  I used up a load of old PVC  25mm conduit boxes , flush at each point. 

        Fittings were to be some sort of circular things.

 

Ceilings up & plastered , the fittings were those round , metal gallery...60W  ES  GLS lamp ....substantial cut glass type cover fixed with a half turn .

After being on for half a day , the heat from the enclosed 60W lamps softened the PVC conduit boxes and the brass M4 inserts all dropped out .

 

About 12 fittings , all still working , hanging from the ceiling  on their flexes   :o

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Andy™

weld a lump of 100x100x8 box to the ceiling then bolt the light to that... the roof may fall down, but at least the light will still be securely fixed...

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revjames

I tried to think of some advice....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I really did....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

but in the end.....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I got stuck.... :slap :slap

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pewter

This cladding, single sheet, thats above the brickwork.  Which then goes up to meet the roof.

 

 

Is it fixed to a steel L shape?  or timber frame? which is then fixed to upright RSJ's.  could you not get a fixing off any of that?  or a bracket off it?

 

 

Or is the single sheet cladding taking the weight of the roof all by itself.

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Sikaflex or one of the other Sika products would work but you'd need to find a way to keep it supported for at least a few hours.

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