Hive help

I have just purchased a HIVE active heating. My boiler is a basi M90e

https://www.biasi.co.uk/assets/public/installer_literature/34/Riva Compact_Service Manual.pdf

I think I have a thermostat currently it’s always set to maximum I don’t really use it. I took the cover off and there’s a red black and earth wire. I have old wiring so I assume live neural earth. No idea if this thermo is even in use. How would it connect to the boiler if so?

Heres the wiring set up on the boiler

02821-AAA-026-E-4-C77-AF45-5-A66-FCC43-C8-D - https://ibb.co/9v7Ky2r

the hive set up

06388BFE 09B0 4376 A46B 0E369D87A60E - https://imgshare.io/image/prHwpt

I know it’s the bottom block I need to change. Please could someone explain which wires I put into which bits on the HIVE. Also do I remove that black linking wire? What should I fit to the earth tether. Do I need to set the boiler current clock to always on? I assume I remove the live and neutral wires from the top connector box and put these into my hive L and N. Then the bottom block blue I think is my CH on as it links with the red terminal wire which I think is maybe my thermo. So CH on blue, CH off grey take these out and out them into the hiv correct on/off ports. Now it’s just the red wire I am unsure about. 

Thanks

Matt

Sorry but your links don’t work. Upload pics to a third party app and add a link that way? 

If those wires in your stat ARE live and neutral then it will go when calling for heat. More chance of being a live and a switched live

Sharpend said:

Sorry but your links don’t work. Upload pics to a third party app and add a link that way? 

Click to expand...

https://ibb.co/b1QVcvT
https://ibb.co/9v7Ky2r
https://ibb.co/hLTVK7L

kerching said:

If those wires in your stat ARE live and neutral then it will go when calling for heat. More chance of being a live and a switched live

Click to expand...

The manual seems to suggest they are 

https://ibb.co/b1QVcvT
https://ibb.co/9v7Ky2r
https://ibb.co/hLTVK7L

You are not reading the drawings correctly. Thus you don’t know what you are doing or need to do, which will result in tears if you get it wrong. The back plate you have shown us for a programmable thermostat or time controller. Have you a pic of what you have taken off the plate? 
 

the brown blue (L,N) if removed from boiler means your boiler will not work. 

A switched live goes between the terminus that the link black is in. 
Is the boiler a combi or system boiler? 

Sharpend said:

You are not reading the drawings correctly. Thus you don’t know what you are doing or need to do, which will result in tears if you get it wrong. The back plate you have shown us for a programmable thermostat or time controller. Have you a pic of what you have taken off the plate? 
 

the brown blue (L,N) if removed from boiler means your boiler will not work. 

A switched live goes between the terminus that the link black is in. 
Is the boiler a combi or system boiler? 

Click to expand...

Combi.

I know my top block is per live I need to link the live and neut to my hive controller. The bottom block then I need to link the ch one and ch off wire to the hive ports. I don’t have a back plate I only have the wires in the boiler at the moment and an empty hive back plate. I need to work out how to get the wires from the boiler blocks to the hive. I think I am 90% once I like live to live neut to nuet and the grey/blue from the bottom to the hive ch on/off it’s just the red wire I am unsure about. 

Why do you want a CH off signal?

just curious

Have you any electrical voltage indication equipment? 

kerching said:

Why do you want a CH off signal?

just curious

Click to expand...

One is the CH off and one is CH on switch. I don’t need one but if you look at the hive back plate it’s how it’s wired 

https://ibb.co/b1QVcvT

Sharpend said:

Have you any electrical voltage indication equipment? 

Click to expand...

No. I don’t have wires either tbh. If it was as easy as just switching the live to live on the hive and n to n on the hive then ch on ch off it wouldn’t be an issue. I think due to the wire lengths I would need to extend the wires somehow and I am clueless on that front. I guess for the live and neutral I can just use something like the below. Remove the bottom wires from the top box and wire this into the connector onto the hive back plate. For the ch one and off I guess I use hook up wires or conduit wires https://www.screwfix.com/p/time-3183tq-white-3-core-2-5mm-flexible-cable-5m-coil/207JY?tc=IA5&ds_kid=92700055281954475&ds_rl=1249401&gclid=Cj0KCQiA34OBBhCcARIsAG32uvPHoZoHgre7IGaDf-gRoe8qeOs3AcmwSImvPUJQ0ddSGaNMSUn3Hd0aAh7fEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

I have installed loads of these

CH on heating works

CH NOT on.     CH is off

it doesn't need a signal to turn it off UNLESS you have some weird "power to close" valves

But does he take live from boiler out and return via boiler in or does he link at the back plate.  This is his unknown. 

Just a thought, it may be a 12/24 signal and not mains voltage! Could prove expensive if you don't know what you are doing

Safest bet, with ambiguous/incomplete connection information like that.

1. Make sure completing and removing that black link starts and stops the boiler OK.

2. Connect live & neutral of boiler supply to live and neutral of Hive unit.

3. Connect the NO Hive contacts in place of the black link.  You don't then have to guess if the signal is mains; it doesn't matter if it's low voltage.

Geoff1946 said:

Safest bet, with ambiguous/incomplete connection information like that.

1. Make sure completing and removing that black link starts and stops the boiler OK.

2. Connect live & neutral of boiler supply to live and neutral of Hive unit.

3. Connect the NO Hive contacts in place of the black link.  You don't then have to guess if the signal is mains; it doesn't matter if it's low voltage.

Click to expand...

I think I have established the thermostat on my wall is not being used. If it was that black linking wire wouldn’t be present as the manual states it must be removed for external controls.

I really wanted to learn on do this job myself but I think it’s best I get someone in. I have a sparkie coming in a few weeks for some other work so I will ask him. 
if it was just as simple as moving wires from the blocks to the hive I would give it a go. However, the hive sits away from the boiler so these wires aren’t long enough. Therefore I would have to buy wire and run it from the hive to the blocks. I’ve not got a clue on what wires to buy 3 core, two core, hook up? I would guess I can use a 2 core wire for the live/N. Then single lead wires for the control block 

kerching said:

Just a thought, it may be a 12/24 signal and not mains voltage! Could prove expensive if you don't know what you are doing

Click to expand...

concur, my thought exactly. 

Geoff1946 said:

Safest bet, with ambiguous/incomplete connection information like that.

1. Make sure completing and removing that black link starts and stops the boiler OK.

2. Connect live & neutral of boiler supply to live and neutral of Hive unit.

3. Connect the NO Hive contacts in place of the black link.  You don't then have to guess if the signal is mains; it doesn't matter if it's low voltage.

Click to expand...

very good advice if you have an idea of what you’re doing. 

Tuharax said:

I have a sparkie coming in a few weeks for some other work so I will ask him. 

Click to expand...

Probably your wisest option.  I think most would agree that heating controls aren't the simplest to start learning basic electrics on.

kerching said:

Just a thought, it may be a 12/24 signal and not mains voltage! Could prove expensive if you don't know what you are doing

Click to expand...

I guess so 

https://www.biasi.co.uk/assets/public/installer_literature/34/Riva Compact_Service Manual.pdf

pages 5 and 6 are wiring diagrams. I see the eletrical supply connector is 230. Doesn’t seem to say anything on the connection one. I assume would indicate it’s a on/off signal wires