Sharpend
"It Just Is"
Sorry to say pip unless you have some understanding of the wiring of the current system or can at least use a multimeter and post some pictures of what you have then I think you'd be better getting a spark in.
Hive & My Old Thermostat
- Thread starter piphead
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Thank you all for your help.
Having spoken to a number of people it turns out I need to connect the wires in the thermostat to make the circuit. I can then remove the old thermostat and hide the wires.
I'll give it a go tomorrow and see what happens.
Cheers
Having spoken to a number of people it turns out I need to connect the wires in the thermostat to make the circuit. I can then remove the old thermostat and hide the wires.
I'll give it a go tomorrow and see what happens.
Cheers
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If the thermostat is redundant, link it out at it's source (the old wiring centre?) and disconnect the wires feeding it.
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I could be wrong, but I think pip is talking about removing the thermostat and connecting the Hive unit at the old thermostat position utilising the existing wiring.
My disclaimer, I have never seen a Hive unit (except where my bees live) so I have no idea how feasible this is.
My disclaimer, I have never seen a Hive unit (except where my bees live) so I have no idea how feasible this is.
In which I don't think it will work if its anything like the Salus IT500 which I have and install!
So fitted the Hive today and took brman's idea of fitting the hub, controller and new thermostat and then leaving the old thermostat in place, but set to max (30).
Lo and behold the system is working great. But as I am so picky, I'm going to go back to my original thought of removing the old wired thermostat, because the new hive doesn't require any wiring, and then shorting out the wires in the old thermostat (but not the negative of course) with block connectors thereby creating a permanent circuit in as much the same way a setting it to 30 is achieving. I'll then hide them behind the wall for future use if needed.
Unfortunately having looked again today, there is no way to remove the existing thermostat wires from the boiler end as they are hidden behind the walls and untraceable.
That is of course unless anyone advises me that it dangerous. Although my sparky says it will be perfectly fine.
Thanks
Lo and behold the system is working great. But as I am so picky, I'm going to go back to my original thought of removing the old wired thermostat, because the new hive doesn't require any wiring, and then shorting out the wires in the old thermostat (but not the negative of course) with block connectors thereby creating a permanent circuit in as much the same way a setting it to 30 is achieving. I'll then hide them behind the wall for future use if needed.
Unfortunately having looked again today, there is no way to remove the existing thermostat wires from the boiler end as they are hidden behind the walls and untraceable.
That is of course unless anyone advises me that it dangerous. Although my sparky says it will be perfectly fine.
Thanks
Yes..... IT'S DANGEROUS
Do not leave, what will become, random cables in a wall,,,,, they need to be disconnected at the boiler
Do not leave, what will become, random cables in a wall,,,,, they need to be disconnected at the boiler
Rob_the_rich
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Where is your new thermostat sited?Why not put it in the same position as the old thermostat? There is a back box you can buy to accept the terminations and to screw the new thermostat to. No decorations needed. Having a thermostat in front of the terminations gives future electricians a clue that there could be live wiring in the walls within safe zones above, below and to the sides.
Please don't decorate over wiring connections.
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The old thermostat wires WILL terminate somewhere, you just haven't found it yet. Keep looking.
Possibly behind the old time clock but more likely in a separate dedicated wiring centre (posh name for a box with a load of terminals in it)
Occasionally people put them in silly places, I found one hidden in the back of a built in wardrobe once, that took some finding.
Rob_the_rich
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If you look at the wiring centre, the most easily recognised cables are the black ones coming from the motorised valves, they have multi-colured wires including an orange one. Depending on your system you should have either one (3-port valve) or two (2x two port valves) of these black cables. the thermostat cable will be connected between the programmer connections and the heating motorised valve
Which system do you have?
If you have 2x two port valves, looking at the pipework, can you work out which valve controls water to the cylinder and which controls water for heating?
If you are allowed to post a photo (I think a moderator has to allow this first) of the wires in the wiring centre, we might be able to identify which connections will need to be linked out to make the thermostat cable in the wall(s) safe.
Which system do you have?
If you have 2x two port valves, looking at the pipework, can you work out which valve controls water to the cylinder and which controls water for heating?
If you are allowed to post a photo (I think a moderator has to allow this first) of the wires in the wiring centre, we might be able to identify which connections will need to be linked out to make the thermostat cable in the wall(s) safe.
actually I think he has.
Piphead: you mention earlier up the thread a box next to the boiler with lots of wires in it. that is almost certainly the wiring centre and the thermostat cable will terminate there. All you need to do is find out which wires and disconnect them there. you can then leave the cable in the wall if you like as it will be dead and no danger to anyone.
As Rob-the-rich said, the reason we are saying don't just remove the thermostat and connect the wires together is there is then no indication there are live wires buried in the wall. This is both dangerous and against the wiring regulations. Mine you, this does depend on exactly where the wires go and and how they are fitted so it is impossible to say this categorically without seeing it. You say you have an electrician friend who says it is ok to do this. Is he really a competent electrician or just someone who dabbles in it? I ask because he either knows something we don't or is not advising you properly.
Regardless, can you not just get him to help you find the right wires to disconnect at the boiler end? I'd be surprised if it took more than 10 minutes......
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Sorry for my late reply I was away for the weekend, but thank you all for your replies.
The system is working fine now but I will take all your advice and have my spark come round and disconnect the wires at the source in the boiler
I'll also leave a note behind my new thermostat to let future owners know the wires are there in case they need to go back to a wired thermostat in the future.
Thank you all once again.
Regards
PH.
The system is working fine now but I will take all your advice and have my spark come round and disconnect the wires at the source in the boiler
I'll also leave a note behind my new thermostat to let future owners know the wires are there in case they need to go back to a wired thermostat in the future.
Thank you all once again.
Regards
PH.
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