3 way valve problem

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Theorysparky

Domestic Electrician
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Been pulling my hair out with this allday

Request for hot water from clyinder thermostat all fine

Same time request for heating fine

Request for heating only the boiler flags up a fault

Thermostat to wiring box 240v,,,going into valve 240v

coming out of valve down to boiler 130v ish

any ideas,,,,,me and the plumber think it might be the valve even though its new.

Disconnected hot water wiring made no difference

going to test another valve tomorrow before plumbing it

thoughts please guys

 
Been pulling my hair out with this alldayRequest for hot water from clyinder thermostat all fine

Same time request for heating fine

Request for heating only the boiler flags up a fault

Thermostat to wiring box 240v,,,going into valve 240v

coming out of valve down to boiler 130v ish

any ideas,,,,,me and the plumber think it might be the valve even though its new.

Disconnected hot water wiring made no difference

going to test another valve tomorrow before plumbing it

thoughts please guys
Initial thoughts... ?:|

What make of valve is it?

How many and what colours are the wires coming out of it..?

Is this a brand new install?

or a refurb / replacement on an existing system? ; \

[oh and can you get permission to stay up late again and come and play out after midnight?? :D ]

 
Initial thoughts... ?:| What make of valve is it?

Honeywell mid position diverter v4073

How many and what colours are the wires coming out of it..?

5 white orange grey blue g/y

Is this a brand new install?

no

or a refurb / replacement on an existing system? ; \

its a replacement from a 3 wire to a 5 wire valve as the customer had heating everytime there was a demand for hot water

[oh and can you get permission to stay up late again and come and play out after midnight?? :D ]
10.30 bed as i didnt do very well at work today :(

 
Theo:

Any chance of either a diagram; or description of controls fitted, connections, etc. please?

Ta.

Don`t think it`ll be new divertor. Maybe microswitch - but shouldn`t be able to "lose" volts. That sounds more like a floating wire - how did you read that 130v m8?

 
Right m8.

D.C.H. only fault - you`ve got 240 v on white wire, with respect to neutral?

But only 130 ish on orange?

This rises to 240V if grey is given 240v?

In combined / DHW mode, does it operate correctly?

Does it matter if you stop the DHW by timeswitch or tank stat?

r.e 130V orange. What I meant was, could that be an induced voltage; and you didn`t really have any voltage there?

Again, take the casing off, and test the microswitch. I`ve had to adjust a new one before now.

HTH

p.s. thanks for schematic.

 
Well was about to put another post together..

then reminded by my good lady that I had to go and fetch my daughter back from guides!!! Doh!

Come back and you been posting quite merrily behind my back! :D

 
Don't do C/heating very often but am I right in thinking with a 3 position valve there is a condition where 130v is present across one of the wires...

(not the output to trigger the boiler though! )

Doesn't the room stat provide a resistive neutral signal to the valve in one state... and a 230v in the other state?

Cuz the valve motor needs to have three positions to drive to.

all water / all heat / or midway (both)

Have you double checked your cylinder and room stat connections..

i.e. not go two wires reversed?

Honeywell valves are normally pretty good!

Is it the type of 3-port valve that you can lift the motor assy off the pipe tee section and watch the physical motor turn the bade assy that engages with the actual pipe gate valve??

i.e.verify it is driving to three positions? when the input voltages are applied.

?:|

again if I remember right...

White normaly comes from the room stat.

Grey back to timer switch & cylinder stat.

Orange to boiler & cylinder stat.

... :|

 
Right m8.D.C.H. only fault - you`ve got 240 v on white wire, with respect to neutral?

But only 130 ish on orange?

This rises to 240V if grey is given 240v?

In combined / DHW mode, does it operate correctly?

Does it matter if you stop the DHW by timeswitch or tank stat?

r.e 130V orange. What I meant was, could that be an induced voltage; and you didn`t really have any voltage there?

Again, take the casing off, and test the microswitch. I`ve had to adjust a new one before now.

HTH

p.s. thanks for schematic.[/QUOTE]

cheers M8 for those points/ideas

think i am going to start the wiring again 2morrow

and test the switch tomorrows another day

also i have other diagrams that i downloaded c/s/w/y plans

ill try and post the link
 
again if I remember right...White normaly comes from the room stat.

Grey back to timer switch & cylinder stat.

Orange to boiler & cylinder stat.
Indeed you are sir.

If the grey lead has 230V at the valve on it then the valve has failed in one way or another, if there is no voltage at the grey lead at the valve and voltage on it at the cylinder stat then there is a fault between them. And if the is no voltage on the grey lead at the cylinder stat and the 'hot-water OFF' on the programmer is dead then the programmer is faulty or misprogrammed.

This is the little I know about domestic systems! :(

 
If you spell ho****er as one word it edits it automatically! (that's hot-water) :^O

It thinks your trying to spell 'tw@t'! :^O

 
Don't do C/heating very often but am I right in thinking with a 3 position valve there is a condition where 130v is present across one of the wires...(not the output to trigger the boiler though! )

Doesn't the room stat provide a resistive neutral signal to the valve in one state... and a 230v in the other state?

Cuz the valve motor needs to have three positions to drive to.

all water / all heat / or midway (both)

Have you double checked your cylinder and room stat connections..

i.e. not go two wires reversed?

Honeywell valves are normally pretty good!

Is it the type of 3-port valve that you can lift the motor assy off the pipe tee section and watch the physical motor turn the bade assy that engages with the actual pipe gate valve??

i.e.verify it is driving to three positions? when the input voltages are applied.

?:|

again if I remember right...

White normaly comes from the room stat.

Grey back to timer switch & cylinder stat.

Orange to boiler & cylinder stat.

... :|
more ideas for me to think about

cheers for those

 
If you spell ho****er as one word it edits it automatically! (that's hot-water) :^O It thinks your trying to spell 'tw@t'! :^O
:^O :^O:^O:^O:^O

You cant write ch***** either.. as in I threw somthing away!!! :(

c h u c k e d away ]:) ] :)

 
Get yourself off to bed now... quick..otherwise WW will ground you for the rest of the week!! :(

mug of Coco is on the bedside table....
yes im off now

will let you know how i fixed it tomorrow

Cheers guys

now where is my teddy..... :(

 
yes im off nowwill let you know how i fixed it tomorrow

Cheers guys

now where is my teddy..... :(
:^O

Goodnight Mate.

 
Got your HW off wired reet?
nope !!!!!! try putting in the right terminal it helps :_|

changed the cylinder stat as the old one was constantly on

hey presto all works fine

not sure i would have had that amount of help on the otherside

Thanks for all the useful posts

:) :) :)

 
Changed the cylinder stat as the old one was constantly onhey presto all works fine
Have you taken it to pieces to find the fault? Contacts welded together?

 

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