Help Me Identify A Failed Accessory (Fcu)

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I don't have a picture of the failed one.

Here's the story.

I fitted one to feed a 3KW heater a few weeks ago.

Called today as "the fuse had melted"

The whole thing had cracked down the front in line with the fuse holder.

So I thought nothing of it, it must have been a faulty one, and replaced it, with another the same.

2 hours later, telephone rang "it's getting hot and smelling" so I told them to turn it off.

I'm going tomorrow to fit a Crabtree one in it's place.

I've not had any of the others of this batch fail, but I don't recall fitting them to anything big, just small stuff like extractor fans and cooker hoods.

I resent the waste of my time having to go back and swap this sh!t.  Yes I know it was a cheap make, but a 13A FCU should be capable of supplying an 13A load.  I've used a lot of Pro Elec and Marbo stuff and never had a problem before.

 
I used some Knightsbridge sockets on a job a couple of years ago and had nothing but trouble with them... in the end I must have replaced nearly all of them under warranty.... not a happy chappy and I'll never knowingly use cheap stuff again

 
Yes please have a look, you have pictures now of the front and the back.

I just want confirmation they are the Pro Elec ones than I can go and complain at CPC

 
Cant help you with this except i remember  PMS stuff 15 years ago as they copied the MK logo but with PMS letters. It wasnt to bad back then & didnt know they were still in production.

The worst stuff i have used recently was Toolstations budget  range, which a builder supplied to me. It was that bad i refused to fit any more after the first few sockets & he agreed when he tried them himself.

 
For a contrary view on LAP, I wired a new build with them.  I can't recall exactly which ones they were, other than they were NOT the flat plate ones, but "normal" fronts with a brushed chrome finish.

I found the light switches utter rubbish.  The terminals were not very deep and the screw just didn't seem to grip the cables very well at all, and I had numerous problems where multiple cables went into one terminal with cables just falling out of the terminal as you tried to fit the switch into the back box.

 
That's good. since I emailed CPC about this issue today.

NOT happy with their response:

Thank you for your email. I am sorry to hear about the problem you have had with this item

I did try to contact you by phone a number of times today.

These products are rated at 13amp max, and at 3Kwatt they are running very close to this limit.  (at 235 volts about 12.75 amps)

If the heaters have a fan it could well exceed this at start up for some time

Ideally a 3Kwatt heater should be connected via 15amp plug, or be connected on a separate fused circuit via a 20amp switch.

If you wish to discuss this further, please feel free to contact me on........
Click to expand...
Needless to say I'm not accepting that reply.

I measured the actual current drawn by this heater today (when I fitted the Crabtree replacement) and my clamp meter measured exactly 13A.

The question therefore is, would you expect a 13A FCU to be able to handle a load of 13A for an indefinite period of time?

I think it should. Am I being unrealistic?

 
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it should be able to safely handle its rated current 24/7

maybe contact trading standards with the part that is failing within its design limits?

 
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To be honest, in this day & age mate - probably yes. 

I`ve been to three hotels now, with these semi-commercial "chain drive" toasters? 

They`re provided, new, with a 13A plugtop.

They draw 12.78A

The hotels have `em on for breakfast, which can be up to 3.5 hrs.

Two staff had to have entries in the accident book, after unplugging the toaster and getting very bad burns on their hand from the plug.

We initially Replaced the 13A plug with a 16A commando - until a plug & socket had a terminal "escaped smoke" type failure.

They`ve now got 32A commandos on `em. Happier times ahead.

BTW - MLA is the trading name of ML accessories. Watch out for `em!!!!! 

 
I will be replying to CPC stating that I believe a 13A rated part, should be able to deliver 13A continuously.  I will throw trading standards, and a claim for my wasted time into the discussion.

 
I have no idea but does the standard its tested to BS wise require constant full load operation?  

in the same way fairly sure a double socket isnt required to handle 26A.  

Its crap so return it, but personally not sure id trust a cheap thing like that with a 3kw heater connected to it, DP switch ( if possible) or a MK unit.

Personally id find it frustrating but not entirely unexpected.  

 
TBH at work they have gone through I think 4 MK 13A FCUs at work that feeds an overhead 3kW curtain heater. It gets replaced and not long after there's the "brown mark" along with the obligatory "crack". It's another contractor responsible, just makes me laugh that they KEEP replacing it rather than addressing it as an issue. It's fed I think from a 16A breaker at the DB. 

It's in a small security hut and I think the night shift like it nice and warm! I reckon they leave the thing running full pelt with the door shut so it's nice and cosy when they come back for a kip! The ambient temperature in there must get quite high! Plus there's no stat!

I've suggested a 20A DP but it's fallen on deaf ears!

 
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