Today's Eicr : Cooker Circuit Hazard

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Revved Up Sparky

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Whilst doing an EICR on a rented property this morning I was inspecting the cooker circuit and noticed that the live conductors had been connected to the centre terminal of the low level connection outlet. (The back box was a dry liner/ fast fix/ cavity box and was therefore plastic)

The centre terminal is, of course, the earth terminal. It is clearly marked with an "E" and is connected to the metal part of the outlet including the two cover plate screws which screw into the metal section.

So therefore the cooker was earthed and working fine BUT if anybody had touched those cover screws - or tried to undo them whilst the power was on, would have received an electric shock.

I'm sure you've heard a similar story before. The landlord has a handyman who is not a qualified spark and this was one of his jobs. :red card

It's possible that there are some sparks around who, under pressure to get their EICR's done quickly so their bosses can make more money, might be tempted to just take their test readings from the socket of the cooker switch and avoid pulling the cooker/ oven out to check the connection outlet !.

This was a good learning experience for my apprentice, I reminded him to always check the outlet plate and try and avoid the easy option of using the socket on the cooker switch and dismissing the outlet plate as a limitation due to lack of access etc ! I know limitations keep our backs covered but someone could still die.

 
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Well spotted.

Carrying on the cooker theme something i see a lot is a cooker supply with a 30-45A overcurrent device. No cooker connected but various combinations of 0.50 flex for hob ignitions and 1.0-1.5 flex for fan ovens (normally about 2kw)

Now i know the various arguments re fixed loads etc, manufacturers recommendations (which more than likely said 3 amp fuse etc, but are not available) short cable runs (say 2m max)   Whats every one's views on this ?

 
Head shaking fave find was yellow arctic used for a hob ignition! I started looking for the 110 trannie behind the units! Clearly cut from someone's site lead as is was covered in paint of various shades. Went along with the gas ignition AND leccy oven flexes in the SAME plug top!





 
Head shaking fave find was yellow arctic used for a hob ignition! I started looking for the 110 trannie behind the units! Clearly cut from someone's site lead as is was covered in paint of various shades. Went along with the gas ignition AND leccy oven flexes in the SAME plug top!



sorry but thats all id got on me van :slap but i swear id put them in seperate plug tops, i just left a extension lead coiled up behind the cupboard though :coat :slap

 
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sorry but thats all id got on me van :slap but i swear id put them in seperate plug tops, i just left a extension lead coiled up behind the cupboard though :coat :slap
I was just thankful it was all terminated properly.............



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Why oh why is anyone bothered about how the cooker is connected

Ok then,  What about a new job/rewire and you have priced for connecting/fitting appliances. You have wired a 10mm cable on a 40A  breaker through a local switch to a outlet plate behind the oven. When you return to 2nd fix there is a gas hob with a 0.5mm flex for its ignition and a fan oven rated at 2.2kw with a 1.5mm flex. This has happened to me numerous times, what is the correct procedure now to follow ?

 
Ok then,  What about a new job/rewire and you have priced for connecting/fitting appliances. You have wired a 10mm cable on a 40A  breaker through a local switch to a outlet plate behind the oven. When you return to 2nd fix there is a gas hob with a 0.5mm flex for its ignition and a fan oven rated at 2.2kw with a 1.5mm flex. This has happened to me numerous times, what is the correct procedure now to follow ?
if Im wiring new cooker circuit I put a s/skt beside the outlet plate for an ignitor.

 
if Im wiring new cooker circuit I put a s/skt beside the outlet plate for an ignitor.

I do similar, been caught out as above but its just as easy to fit a dual box rather than a single so i can then 2nd fix   either 2 single sockets or outlet connector/blank plate/socket whatever is thrown.
I wish everyone was so considerate :)

 
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