Garage Consumer Unit Help Please

I am wondering if any one can help me please?

I am having power put into my shed come office to to save myself money with the electrician I want to wire all the plug sockets and the light up myself, something which I am more than capable of doing.

The problem I am having is figuring out how to wiring up the British General Garage enclosure,I know that all the Neutrals go to one set of terminals at the top of the enclosure and the all the Earth's go to the other set of Terminal blocks on the other side, the problem I can't figure out is how to wire up the MCB and the 2 RCB 6A and 32A and how they all link together.

The electrician will of course test all of my wiring before he connects it to the house CU.

Any help would be fantastic and any money I can save will keep me in the wife's good books for a little bit lol

Thanks

Ian

The L for each circuit goes into the top of it's respective MCB

There should be a little bit of busbar to link the L out of the bottom of the RCD main switch into the bottom of the MCB's.

DO ensure your electrician checks everything you have done.

This should be explained in the instructions.

ProDave said:

The L for each circuit goes into the top of it's respective MCB

There should be a little bit of busbar to link the L out of the bottom of the RCD main switch into the bottom of the MCB's.

DO ensure your electrician checks everything you have done.

This should be explained in the instructions.

Click to expand...

I have figured it out now, the Busbar I have got is for 3 RCD's so it leave a Live part of the Busbar exposed, unless I cut it down.

There wasn't any instructions with the enclosure!

Ian 

If the bus bar has 3 prongs then 1 of them needs to go into the bottom of the switch (or RCD) and then the other 2 go into the MCBs

The Instructions are usually on the back of the sticker sheet

NozSpark said:

If the bus bar has 3 prongs then 1 of them needs to go into the bottom of the switch (or RCD) and then the other 2 go into the MCBs

The Instructions are usually on the back of the sticker sheet

Click to expand...

The Busbar has 4 prongs and there are no stickers in the box, looks like I am going to take it back

If the CU has space to fit a third MCB, and you think there's a chance you might add another circuit at some point, then leave it. Your electrician should have a little blanking thing to stick over the end of it.

If there is only physically space to fit two mcb's then get the hacksaw out and cut the spare one off the busbar.

No , don't take it back Ian,  one prong of the busbar goes in the bottom of the main switch ( or main RCD incomer )  opposite the L incoming  connection .

Then your two MCBs go on the next two  ,  the last one is spare .  Theres often a plastic insulator to stick on the spare prong ( or you could tape it up ,, or cut it off)

Does this sketch help?

 

Lovely drawing Deke

+1 That drawing needs to be saved for immortality.  A picture paints a thousand words and all that rubbish.

Aw!!  I forgot to sign it .

I'm getting it framed .

Yes no need to take it back.

If this 4 prong busbar confused you, then wait until you try a split load full size CU. Some makes just give you one long (sometimes far too long) busbar and leave you to decide where to cut it.

(and yes people have installed them as one busbar without cutting them and wonder why things don't work as expected!!!!!!)

On the subject of consumer unit busbars ........how many others tape up the bare copper bar , leaving just the fingers , as I do . ?

Don't the come insulated these days??

I haven't got permission to view the sketch :-(

Blue Duck said:

Don't the come insulated these days??

Click to expand...

Some do ...some don't.

Assuming the cu he has is a "CUGAR 1" then it's a 5-module enclosure.

http://www.nexusinds.com/bg/downloads/circuit-protection-mini-brochure-2013.pdf

I'd keep the spare finger for possible later expansion. I assume the BG busbar has a cover along it's length - never used one? Surely the bus bar isn't bare like the link photo suggests?

For the spare finger on Hager's I like to fit a bit of heatshrink - give's a nice little "pinch" at the top but then they have nice plastic covers along their length anyway. Make sure there's a blank on the front covering the spare way.

Ian72 said:

I haven't got permission to view the sketch :-(

Click to expand...

Ah  You need to post 10 times I think  .   I'll see if I can get that by-passed. 

ian72 keep posting, hopefully some useful posts, and you'll soon hit your 10, you're on 6 as I type this.

Then you should be able to see the pic.

Onoff said:

Assuming the cu he has is a "CUGAR 1" then it's a 5-module enclosure.

I'd keep the spare finger for possible later expansion. I assume the BG busbar has a cover along it's length - never used one? Surely the bus bar isn't bare like the link photo suggests?

For the spare finger on Hager's I like to fit a bit of heatshrink - give's a nice little "pinch" at the top but then they have nice plastic covers along their length anyway. Make sure there's a blank on the front covering the spare way.

Click to expand...

The CU is the CUGAR 1 and yes the Bus bar has got a rubber cover over the length of it.

I should see no reason to expand in the future but I will cover the spare finger properly

Call me a cynic as I don't believe theres a sparky involved at all...

I rest my case:

http://talk.electricianforum.co.uk/topic/26529-wiring-to-a-shed/