Cooker Circuit

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Think this through.

If the NEON goes out, it means there is NO POWER getting to the hob and the oven.

So it WON'T be a fault with the hob or the oven, so disconnecting one of them will not prove anything.

It has to be the switch or the MCB. If you don,t want to pay someone for hours of diagnosis, then just pay someone to change the switch and the MCB.

As has already been stated now at least twice, the function of an mcb is to turn off in the event of over current (a fault). If as we suspect you have a faulty switch that's going open circuit, why would you think the mcb will trip.  With your fault no current will flow so the mcb can't possibly turn off.

Feel free to ignore the advice given, we like wasting our time.
Sorry, the penny just dropped !  Its been a long day so thanks for your patience and help.

I'll go get a new switch and fit it at the weekend !

Thanks again all.

 
It might be the MCB though.... as has been said previously

It might be faulty, installed incorrectly or have a loose termination.....if it's either of these it'll have probably been exposed to an excessive amount of heat so should be replaced

 
Hi all,

I have to go away until end of the week on a business trip but when I get back I'll start investigating.

Perhaps I'm totally wrong but the reason I suspect the MCB is because it remains in the ON position even when the power to the cooker switch is interrupted (i.e. Neon goes out). I don't think it can be a problem related to physical wiring because if left alone for a few hours and without me touching anything, the power comes back on by itself - neon lights on cooker switch and clock flashes on the oven.

Seems to work again then for a few hours / days and then the problem starts over again. As I said before, we've been here 8 years or so and never had a problem with it before - just suddenly started happening week last Tuesday !.

I thinks its going to be a case of disconnect oven and just use hob on its own to start with and see what happens.

Cheers for all the suggestions / support - most appreciated !
From your post it does look as through you lack a bit of basic understanding about how electrical circuits operate. just to recap on a bit of basics: Electricity always generates heat when current is flowing through a circuit. The bigger the current the greater the heat. Joints and connections are the weakest points in a circuit. Screw connections are joints, Switches are joints that are typically spring loaded contacts operated manually. Loose joints will cause arcing and sparking reducing the connectivity of the joint. Poor joints create more heat. All of these factors can combine to cause intermittent connection problems that can 'appear' to resolve themselves after current has stopped flowing and a joint has cooled back down. It is very probable that your problem relates to a poor joint somewhere in the circuit. A few basic tests on the circuit wiring with correct test equipment can eliminate a lot of grey areas out of the equation. Just using the cooker or hob on its own will only reduce the convenience when cooking your dinner and prove very little. If you are not able to do these tests yourself, then as Essex says and hour or two by a competent electrician should be able to fully test the supply circuit, the switch, connection plate MCB terminations and any other relevant joints.

Doc H.

Sorry, the penny just dropped !  Its been a long day so thanks for your patience and help.

I'll go get a new switch and fit it at the weekend !

Thanks again all.

Just noticed your other post, it would be wise to check the joints at the MCB as well.

Doc H.

 
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