The Wife Wouldn't Let Me Buy One...........

[kerching]

I would expect part of the incumbent's remit , after she had brought me the beverage in a hand crafted crytal flute, would be to tidy away all the mess

Just saying

 

[OnOff]

Feel free mods to move to the Student section as I might be asking numpty questions here:

So, I'm lashing together this electric wacker plate. Using a scrapped (I've now repaired) 3-phase motor, this is the plate:



Now, in my day job I only now ever deal with 3-phase motors off a 400V supply, mainly star, some double star wired and the odd delta. Everything is on an inverter too. Years back did a lot on 230V single phase capacitor start / run stuff but not any more.

I'm connecting the above motor up in delta as per the circuit below. Basically hold in the Start button until it's up to speed then let go, back feed thru the cap keeps the coil closed:



Current through the Start and what will be permanently in circuit Stop button is my concern. All the NO/NC contact blocks I have are rated 3A. I assume I'll only be pulling 3.2A at full load (as there's only one phase)? But start up (and stall currents) will be higher. Thinking to maybe double up and put the contact blocks in parallel or run through another contactor?

Just roughing it out for fit:





Cheers

 

[apprentice87]

Welding...

You want full on then.. Use a 3.2 6013 rod with the rod connected to the positive. When you strike up, make a little weld pool and fuse both edges before you set off. Once going keep the rod jammed in the very corner, actually very lightly touching the plate. You will then most likely need a second run next to it [making the horizontal leg longer than the vertical] and then a third run in the "new" corner if you like, only this time a slightly, and i mean slightly longer arc length.

You want it to look like this...

http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x373/resistance87/GC136.jpg

http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x373/resistance87/GC137.jpg

john..

That was 3 runs, a 3.2 rod and about 112 - 115 amps on DC neg...

 

[apprentice87]

Here is some angle to plate, bit like you are doing..

This is with a single run using a 4.00mm rod [6013] on AC and running about 160A from memory..

http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x373/resistance87/MR11%20I%20was%20welding%20in%20a%20day%20in%20the%20past.jpg

john...

 

[OnOff]

Welding...

You want full on then.. Use a 3.2 6013 rod with the rod connected to the positive. When you strike up, make a little weld pool and fuse both edges before you set off. Once going keep the rod jammed in the very corner, actually very lightly touching the plate. You will then most likely need a second run next to it [making the horizontal leg longer than the vertical] and then a third run in the "new" corner if you like, only this time a slightly, and i mean slightly longer arc length.

You want it to look like this...

http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x373/resistance87/GC136.jpg

http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x373/resistance87/GC137.jpg

john..

That was 3 runs, a 3.2 rod and about 112 - 115 amps on DC neg...

Lovely bit of welding there John! Not just my opinion, I have a fair bit of TIG done for me commercially on ali and st/st and know a good weld when I see one! Keen to have a bash myself though. Just sent the cheapo buzz box back and got a full refund. Looking at this one:

http://www.weldequip.com/parweld-xti160.htm

What do you reckon?

 

[apprentice87]

Hmm, now welders.....

Right, when it comes to easy starting and arc stability, DC is what you want, BUT arc blow can be terrible, drive you mad... you can do TIG though with a suitable set, i will write more on this if you want.

An old fashioned thing like an oxford takes a LOT of beating...

Not sure about Parweld stuff, never used it, supposed to be ok though.

Try these people, i have never used one of their welders, but had some stuff from them and that was ok!! http://www.technicalarc.co.uk/

The welding in the first two photos was done with one of these...http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Murex-Stick-Welder-/161723945029?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item25a77f9045

Offer them £100 as it has been on there a while, three phase mind.... I gave £69 for mine... Does scratch start TIG, but as you can add a pedal, you can start at 5 amps which trust me, is as good as ANY lift arc set. I got a remote and a pedal for mine, so i can tell you all the pot values and stuff!!

john..

 

[Sidewinder]

I would use a contactor instead of the pb contact, even the good ones don't like carrying any real load IMHE.

 

[Andy™]

When you burn the motor out you can buy a single phase one :slap

if he was going to 'buy' a motor, he wouldnt be bodging a 3 phase one onto it!

 

[OnOff]

BUY - 

BODGE -

 

[ProDave]

OMG a variable speed wacker plate. What next?

P.S our building control inspector's name is Waquar. I wonder what his nickname is at work?

 

[OnOff]

On/Off - Ill have a look on Monday - May have a throw away(free) 1Ph to 230V 3Ph inverter if thats of interest to you ?

 That's incredibly generous of you I must say! Hang fire if you would though. Working with VSDs I'm wondering how good one would be at handling the as yet unknown level of vibration! Let me get it running as is and I'll see how things look.

OMG a variable speed wacker plate. What next?

P.S our building control inspector's name is Waquar. I wonder what his nickname is at work?

Aren't the petrol ones variable speed anyway, as in throttle control? Reverse I should be able to sort on the leccy one no problem. On the petrol ones I've seen them with an "idle" mode where you flick a lever and it just hump's on the spot!

 

[Sharpend]

Is that coded talk ' flick a lever and it just humps on the spot' ?

 

[steptoe]

A petrol one that humps on the spot,?!?!?!    

Wouldn't the petrol be a fire risk with the duvet and all that stuff,???!!?!?!

 

[ProDave]

It's only the really big ones that have reverse.

Yes the petrol ones have a throttle. It's a case of finding the right speed for maximum vibration.

By the time you have bought the new welder etc, you could have just bought a second hand petrol wacker. But you would have deprived us of much amusement.

 

[Andy™]

By the time you have bought the new welder etc, you could have just bought a second hand petrol wacker. But you would have deprived us of much amusement.

but by the end of it he would only have a wacker. this way he has a welder & wacker

 

[ProDave]

My philosophy on building tools / plant is buy them, use them, then (possibly) sell them.  Certainly worth it when building a whole house anyway and for a project like mine much cheaper that hiring.

 

[OnOff]

but by the end of it he would only have a wacker. this way he has a welder that'll work & wacker that might work!

Changed that for you!  :lol:

"Success is a journey, not a destination. The doing is often more important than the outcome" - Arthur Ashe

 

[OnOff]

Erm..........call me a cop out but an electric wacker plate has come up cheap so I'm getting that and putting the home made one on the back burner until I get a decent welder. 

 

[Andy™]

:slap

maybe you should borrow the motor from the proper one for the DIY one?!

 

[kerching]

Yes BUT you can use the bought one to "adapt and improve" the home build THEN sell the bought one

Just saying