3 gang 1 way smart switch (no neutral)

Talk Electrician Forum

Help Support Talk Electrician Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jonnyy2357

New member
Joined
Jan 5, 2020
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Hi everyone,

I'm trying to replace my current 3-gang, 1-way switch with a smart switch. The new switch only has one 'live' terminal and three (L1, L2, L3) terminals for each light, whereas my old switch has 3 pairs (1 COM and 1x L1) for each light i.e. 6 terminals altogther.

I'm aware my old switch doesn't have a neutral, so i've gone for one of the 'no-neutral' smart switches that has a capacitor i need to install on one of the lights.

My question is how do connect my 6 wires into just 4 terminals on the new switch?

My current thinking is to wire all 3 COM wires into the one L terminal, then each of the three blue wires into L1, L2, L3 respectively - is this correct?

Or can i just use any one of the COM wires, and leave the other two disconnected?

Many thanks for the hel

6bf2fe5ffdf6aca7a8a8c5646a97c1dc.jpeg.e07aa830338306547c97abddffc56d78.jpeg
p!
65fa077884b793ef00cb5074c2578dee.jpeg.19c8b718dd55d732d1ec16df9e691939.jpeg


 
Are they all supplied from the same MCB??


Thanks @Nozspark. All 3 lights turn off when i flip the same breaker, so i think that should mean they're on the same MCB.

If so, does that mean i'm ok to join the 3 lives together? Or is better to try leaving 2 of the lives disconnected and just using 1?

Thank again!
 

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Update:

I got it to work by using 1 of the COM wires, and isolating out the other two. All three COM wires were on the same circuit, and i double-checked using a multimeter and testing pairs to the COM wires on the resistance setting and found all three wires were already connected to each other (i.e. the meter had zero restance between any pairs of the COM).

The capacitor method worked nicely too. The blurb is that without the neutral wire, the switch keeps a low amount of current flowing one of the lights to keep the switch itself powered up (otherwise you'd lose the smart connectivity when all the lights are off). The light that's kept on low power will flicker if using low energy bulbs and the capacitor is used to stop the flickering.

Once i wired up the switch, i turned it on to see which of the lights flickered before installing the capacitor just to double check which one needed it.

Pretty happy all round :)

 
Top