Advice please - Electrician has opened wrong knock-out - do i need a whole new board?

[Noddyman]

Hi, We are having an extension where the consumer unit is mounted up high near the ceiling, with the meter and the solar PV isolator etc all down low in a cupboard, with a false wall hiding all the cabling between them.
The electrician has gone off spec and run the tails from the meter out a side knockout on the consumer unit and infront of the false wall to an isolator switch completely exposed and in the wrong place - it looks ugly!

The tails should have been hidden behind the false wall (with all the other cabling) with the isolator switch in the bottom cupboard next to the Solar PV isolator switch - surely it's common sense from a safety perspective that you have both isolators next to each other, not one visible next to the consumer unit and the other in a cupboard below.

I don't know what solution he will propose when he comes back next week but should i demand a whole new consumer board (as the drilled knockout will mean it's no longer IP rated) or is there a safe/quick/cheap solution to "fill in" the knockout that would be acceptable? He was given the spec, the builders knew it was wrong (and apparently queried it with him when they saw it) but i've not spoken to him directly yet but wanted some professional advice please.

Thanks

 

[Murdoch]

The hole could be filled by a grommet

 

[binky]

Hi, We are having an extension where the consumer unit is mounted up high near the ceiling, with the meter and the solar PV isolator etc all down low in a cupboard, with a false wall hiding all the cabling between them.
The electrician has gone off spec and run the tails from the meter out a side knockout on the consumer unit and infront of the false wall to an isolator switch completely exposed and in the wrong place - it looks ugly!

The tails should have been hidden behind the false wall (with all the other cabling) with the isolator switch in the bottom cupboard next to the Solar PV isolator switch - surely it's common sense from a safety perspective that you have both isolators next to each other, not one visible next to the consumer unit and the other in a cupboard below.

I don't know what solution he will propose when he comes back next week but should i demand a whole new consumer board (as the drilled knockout will mean it's no longer IP rated) or is there a safe/quick/cheap solution to "fill in" the knockout that would be acceptable? He was given the spec, the builders knew it was wrong (and apparently queried it with him when they saw it) but i've not spoken to him directly yet but wanted some professional advice please.

Thanks

Post a picture.

 

[Noddyman]

Post a picture.

The isolator (yellow) should be down by the PV isolator (red) where cupboard will be built (below the blue dotted line). You can see how plaster board is mounted on battons to allow sufficient cable-run behind it.

Once the wall/cupboards are finished if you weren't familiar with it then you'd assume the board would be off if you flipped the isolator in its current position, without realising secondary isolator also needed flipping in the cupboard below.

 

[monkey5]

Some good photography in the forum today!

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

"Blind Grommets" are available in various sizes. (and colours)..

so the round hole could be blanked off.

e.g. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/tcl/search?query=BLIND+GROMMETS

 

[kerching]

I'd have cut and blocked the tails
RCE2 or similar
Separate unit for solar

But that's just me, and I don't do solar

Edit
Due to pic being taken with a I can't actually see what that isolator is for. Is it for the new circuit board? If so, why?
Why not use the onboard isolator?

I'm confused

 

[binky]

I'd have cut and blocked the tails
RCE2 or similar
Separate unit for solar

But that's just me, and I don't do solar

Edit
Due to pic being taken with a I can't actually see what that isolator is for. Is it for the new circuit board? If so, why?
Why not use the onboard isolator?

I'm confused

It's good practice to fit a rotary isolator with the ability to be locked off for the solar circuit, especially if the inverter is remote to the main board like in an attic or garage. There should also be another lockable isolator directly adjacent to the inverter.