Consumer has been nicked, how to test what cables go where?

[J Bourne]

Buying an old property, all cables are in the sockets/switches, and still in the position where the consumer used to sit.
But the consumer unit is also missing.
How can I 'test' what cables go from the consumer to sockets, (up and down) and to light switches with no consumer unit or electric power?

 

[Murdoch]

Employ a spark?

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

With appropriate calibrated test equipment, continuity and insulation resistance will need to be verified for all cables.
Whilst doing these test the functions of each cable should be identifiable.
Once the composition and types of circuits are established then a suitable new consumer unit can be selected and installed.
Once fitted further live tests of earth loop impedance, prospective fault current, RCD operating times etc.. can be undertaken.
All test results with then need to be documented onto an electrical installation certificate.
And a building regulations compliance notification will also need to be issued.

This is all quite basic stuff for a competent electrician.
But generally replacing consumer units is not a DIY task..
(Even though places like B&Q will sell consumer units to DIY'ers)

Best solution, follow Murdoch's advice.

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

You don't say what has happed to the incoming supply tails, (still live?), that used to go into the consumer unit?

 

[ProDave]

I would have a bit of a guess that what you are buying might be described as "derelict"? It would probably benefit from a full rewire or at least a very good inspection test and no doubt some upgrades as part of fitting the new consumer unit. a job for a spark, not DIY.

 

[Murdoch]

If you are about to buy or have just bought - I would recommend a decent thorough EICR ..........

 

[J Bourne]

Employ a spark?

Every village has
I guess you are ours?

 

[Sharpend]

Every village has
I guess you are ours?

Possibly wish to add an explanation?

 

[sirsparkabit]

Rude

 

[ELECTRICMEN]

Buying an old property, all cables are in the sockets/switches, and still in the position where the consumer used to sit.
But the consumer unit is also missing.
How can I 'test' what cables go from the consumer to sockets, (up and down) and to light switches with no consumer unit or electric power?

Simples, get yourself a PP3 Battery [oblong flat battery used in Test Meters] and connect one terminal to all
the Black wires and then take any Single Red wire and connect to the other terminal, you are now good to go.
Now with any simple test meter set your meter to detect D.C. Voltage and go check at the House Sockets,lights etc.

TOP TIP -
Lights = 1.0mm cable
Sockets = 2.5mm cable
Immersion Heater = 2.5mm cable
Cooker = 6.0mm or 10mm cable
Shower = 6.0mm or 10.0mm cable

knowing these sizes you could just test the lighting, then power and so on, remember you could have lots
of lighting cables, for different circuits, say up and down lighting and you will need to join all the Nuetrals to one of the terminals of the Battery via a joint box.

 

[Andy™]

Simples, get yourself a PP3 Battery [oblong flat battery used in Test Meters] and connect one terminal to all
the Black wires and then take any Single Red wire and connect to the other terminal, you are now good to go.
Now with any simple test meter set your meter to detect D.C. Voltage and go check at the House Sockets,lights etc.

TOP TIP -
Lights = 1.0mm cable
Sockets = 2.5mm cable
Immersion Heater = 2.5mm cable
Cooker = 6.0mm or 10mm cable
Shower = 6.0mm or 10.0mm cable

knowing these sizes you could just test the lighting, then power and so on, remember you could have lots
of lighting cables, for different circuits, say up and down lighting and you will need to join all the Nuetrals to one of the terminals of the Battery via a joint box.

easier to do the job properly than mess about with a 9v battery and multimeter

 

[Sharpend]

easier to do the job properly than mess about with a 9v battery and multimeter

Yes but then you’d have to have all the proper test equipment and know what you’re doing. This way he can prove a voltage at the other end of a cable but will he know it’s safe for a real voltage?

 

[johnb2713]

Yes but then you’d have to have all the proper test equipment and know what you’re doing. This way he can prove a voltage at the other end of a cable but will he know it’s safe for a real voltage?

And armed with this information he does what?

In all likelyhood he will need one of you lot to go round and connect it up / test etc so he may as well just leave it to the real cowboys electricians.