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The 4 holes won't line up with the holes in the sockets/existing boxes though AFAIK.

It is possible to change metal back boxes without re-plastering, patience is a virtue (that I don't have these days), but it can be done, I have done it and seen it done.

This is one of those PITA jobs.
I know the holes won't line up with the existing, but the fixing holes on the plate can be drilled and fixed through the opposite corners in the back box. Put a bit of sleeving over the screws to eliminate sharp edges it's a lot less mess than changing the box

 
I know the holes won't line up with the existing, but the fixing holes on the plate can be drilled and fixed through the opposite corners in the back box. Put a bit of sleeving over the screws to eliminate sharp edges it's a lot less mess than changing the box
So what are you proposing that the holes line up with?

You are going to drill them to match what?

Why sleeve?

I'm not picking holes, it's just that your statements don't add up to me.

 
So what are you proposing that the holes line up with?

You are going to drill them to match what?

Why sleeve?

I'm not picking holes, it's just that your statements don't add up to me.
The fixing plate has 4 fixing holes in the corners, in the corner of the back box drill through the back put a rawl plug then screw the plate back into the rawl plug. The sleeving over the screw does away with the sharp edge of the thread in the box. I have used this method before where the side lugs were broken off of a box in a polished plaster wall where taking the box out wasn't an option.

I'm sorry I can't explain it simpler than that hope that adds up now

 
Right now I see, OK, not something I would do, but, not saying it can't be done and done well.

I suppose it depends on the masonry behind the box though also?

 
That's true it does depend on the masonry but if the masonry isn't up to scratch use a self tapper through the box instead.

 

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