ze but no zs

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its the leads on the tester I was referring to, which the OP (Soulman) seems to have understood quite well.

if you used the fluke 16xx series of testers you would know are identified with L N PE

 
its the leads on the tester I was referring to, which the OP (Soulman) seems to have understood quite well.if you used the fluke 16xx series of testers you would know are identified with L N PE
A bit like my 'Meggers' red, black and green then - doesn't matter which ones you actually use though.

That isn't what you said in the quote above though, is it.

The neutral, whether we mean the 'lead', the 'hole' in the meter (where the lead goes), or the incommer, has nothing to do with testing Zs - except for when your using the no-trip, three lead method.

Two lead Zs is between Line an CPC - no matter which leads you actually use.

 
sorry, but on a normal setting on a fluke 1652 the 2wire test uses the L and N leads by default,

so if you decide to use the L and Pe leads you wont get a reading.

so it does matter what leads you use.

 
You know what, Steptoe, I think I've just realised what you mean.

Are you saying that to 'loop test' on the Fluke, you have to use the 'Line' and 'Neutral' ports/leads.

If so, that actually makes it an inferior meter to the 'Megger' - because at least the 'Earth Loop' is measured using the 'earth' and 'Line' connections/leads.

No wonder the OPs confused - and me!! :|

 
well if you think more adaptable = inferior then you must be correct.

the fluke can be configured in many ways with leads and settings to do many different things, as I have said, that are beyond the normal remit of general house/domestic form filling testing,

on the other hand, the megger has a slidey position thing so you cant plug different things in at the same time, thereby limiting its usefulness at being adapted to differing situations.

 
So, just so I've got this right.

You're testing Zs on a circuit.

You have your 'red' lead plugged into 'L' and your 'black' lead plugged into 'N'

You then connect your 'red' lead to the 'Line' conductor and the 'black' lead to the CPC.

Is this correct for the two-wire test?

You then plug your 'green' lead into 'PE'.

What are the connections for the 'three wire' test?? - 'red' to 'Line', 'black' to 'CPC' (as the two wire test), and then 'green' to 'Neutral'...........that's ****** up, mate, sorry!!

No wonder the OPs not getting a reading - and you think 'Fluke' are superior?

 
simple test for you,

continuity from the earth pin on a socket to the screw on the plate,

plug in your plug lead to your tester, then plug it into the socket, then take your probe and place it on the screw head and then plug it into your tester,!

oh, sorry, you cant, can you, you have a megger, and nowhere to plug anything else in cos you have the 13a plug lead plugged in,

see, megger is OK if you dont know what to do or only write down faults, not fix them,

its does the tests to fill the forms in, it doesnt do the tests to fix the faults left behind by people that dont understand electrics.

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BTW, fluke dont have a black probe.

 
simple test for you,continuity from the earth pin on a socket to the screw on the plate,

plug in your plug lead to your tester, then plug it into the socket, then take your probe and place it on the screw head and then plug it into your tester,!

oh, sorry, you cant, can you, you have a megger, and nowhere to plug anything else in cos you have the 13a plug lead plugged in,
Yes, I can.

I have one of these:

Ethos 2100 R1 & R2 Socket Adaptor - Ethos Security Products

Funny enough, I used it today to do pretty much what you've just described.

BTW, fluke dont have a black probe.
I honestly can't contest this - I've never used one.

 
oh right, so megger is so good they need 3rd party products to do the functions of a basic tester,?

thats just top notch that is,

BTW, thats only a very basic example of one of the many variations,

and I do hope you have that little dinky box sent off with your meter for calibration every year too.

and you have now admitted to trying to slate a product you have no experience of,

thats nice.

I have in the past banged megger to the lowest, for various reasons,

recently , due to working with a guy that has a new one I have had the chance to use one again,

I still dont rate them,

ok for house bashing/general domestic testing, but thats their limit, form filling meters, nothing more.

 
Fluke haven't brought a MFT out yet to match Meggers new offering - so without further examples of tests that the 'fluke' can do that a 'Megger' can't, I can't really comment.

 
oh, havent they, so what can the 'new' megger do then that the fluke cant?I really dont know, I havent used or seen the new megger yet.
iirc, it does doesnt need a neutral on non-trip Zs. dont know if fluke have a tester what does this

 
Now now!!!! I have got a nice shiny new Megger 1730!! You can plug the 13A plug thingy in if you want, but the leads coming from it are all separate anyway, so you can stick them in any hole you like!! [on the meter!!!!]

All tests apart from the earth rod resistance test only use two leads. The "high" current loop test, and the "low" current "no trip" one, use the same leads [or the "plug" thingy] but with the leads stuck in different holes on the meter. If you try to do, say, a no trip earth loop test, but you have the leads in the wrong holes on the meter, the meter will show "CON" on its display, so you know you have made a mistake!!

If you want to though, you can use the plug thingy with all three leads plugged in at the same time and do a "normal" L/N loop impedance and then a "no trip" low current, L/E one, just by turning a ****, no leads to move!

There is a "slidey" thing covering the holes, but all this does is to stop you trying to use the meter at the same time as the charger is plugged in, [Remember, it has rechargable batteries in it]

Megger have made a video of their meter, but it does make it look more complicated to use than it really is. The manual is not bad, but could be improved on though. Still, at least it is not written in Fluke's version of "Pidgin English" so that is something..

I am really pleased with my Megger, i have never used a Fluke, so i cannot comment, but i have a Fluke phase rotation meter, and that is REALLY nice, and i nearly bought a Fluke voltage probe, and that had a really nice "feel" to it i must say. Soooo, Fluke, Megger, all comes down to personal choice i suppose.

Still, if it does explode, at least i cannot say i was not warned!!!

john...

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How funny is that!!! When i tried to use a four letter word to describe the "handle" on a rotary control on the meter, [word starts with a "K"] the "system" thought i was being rude and "bleeped" it out!!!

john!!

 
RIGHT!

Can we get back on track, instead of having a weeing contest about "my meter`s better than yours"?? (BTW - Albert`s right. I`ve used both - Megger is inferior, IMHO)

Soul - can you tell me HOW you "toggle" between L-N and L-E? Cos I can`t do that on mine 1652.

ADS. For info: the 2 wire test uses the "L" and "N" ports ; the 3 lead uses all three, in the configuration you`d normally expect. Why that should be an issue is beyond me, TBH - just about the only time I use / used that function was phase/phase PSC.

KME

 
RIGHT!Can we get back on track, instead of having a weeing contest about "my meter`s better than yours"?? (BTW - Albert`s right. I`ve used both - Megger is inferior, IMHO)

Soul - can you tell me HOW you "toggle" between L-N and L-E? Cos I can`t do that on mine 1652.

ADS. For info: the 2 wire test uses the "L" and "N" ports ; the 3 lead uses all three, in the configuration you`d normally expect. Why that should be an issue is beyond me, TBH - just about the only time I use / used that function was phase/phase PSC.

KME
sorry to carry on the weeing contest mr kme but are you suggesting your flukes better than my megger cos I can assure you it ain't :slap :coat haha

 
Well, apprentice has just proved the point with a brand spanking new megger, if you try and put the leads in different ports to do a non standard test it wont allow it.!

This just proves my earlier point,

Fluke is designed for people that test,

Megger is designed for people that fill forms in.

 
I prefer Fluke personally when mines working which generally is most of the times the readings are consistant and i am happy to put them down on my certs. If megger have improved the design since they did the cm range i would maybe consider one again but unless some one guaranteed that i would not buy one again. The cm500 i have cannot do an accurate loop test on low current range never has been able too and i don't think it ever will maybe its because they only use two wires but the design is poor and megger have never helped with the problem as the saying goes one bitten twice shy.

 
I've used both Meggers and Flukes and prefer Meggers. Flukes don't automatically conduct tests which can be a pain trying to balance the leads and press the test button at the same time. That said, both Megger and Fluke manufacture great meters and really it is whatever you prefer.

Not sure why you suggest a Megger can't conduct a line/neutral loop impedance test - simply connect the leads across line and neutral conductors. Does it matter which port they are in?

Incidentally, instead of toggling L-N instead of L-PE with a Fluke I just connected the leads across line and neutral. Seems less hassle to me.

 
anyway,

get a wandering lead out and check continuity between the rod and the socket in question, I think you will find you will have no continuity. There is a break somewhere.

 

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