2 gang 1 way switch replacement

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biggurs

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Hi all.
I'm replacing a 2 gang switch. My new one has com labelled on the top of each side and L1 and L2 on each side.
The old one (10 years old) has L1 L2 L3 labelled on each end? It's just 2 gang 1 way switch I want to change
First pic is of the current switch (old) and the end pic is of the new one (labelled)
I'm obviously not an electrician but I'm usually somewhat competent with stuff like this but I'm a bit confused with this.
Any help would be greatly appreciated .
Regards
 

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The old L1 is now COM. The terminals are in different places but connect the same using COM for the L1 wires.
 
Old L1 = New Com
Old L2 = New L1
Old L3 = New L2

It's a classic bit of electrical design where manufactures terminal descriptions can totally confuse DIY'ers..

and cause mayhem when they just try wiring it as L1 to L1, L2 to L2 & L3 to Com.
especially if its on a two-way landing/hall switch arrangment!!
 
Thankyou everyone. I just want to confirm... in the current switch the brown wire going diagonally from L1 to L1 will now go horizontally from com to com in the new switch?
 
Hi again. The reason I changed the switch was because the bathroom light stopped working. Changed the bulb still didnt work but the fan worked when switched on so I thought maybe the switch for the light could be faulty. Anyway I still have the problem. Light not working but the fan still works (2 gang switch . One switch for light and 2nd switch for fan)
When I install the bulb (ceiling light and bulb facing horizontally) the bulb in my opinion doesnt stay as in a 9 o''clock position but kind of drops down a bit to 8 o'clock position. Is that just gravity or something loose?
 

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I forgot to mention that I've installed the new switch and light still doesnt work
 
Sounds like you have done the typical DIY fault finding exercise...

"Swap something without actually testing that the item you are swapping is faulty first" !?

Where-as a few tests with some appropriate continuity and voltage testers would quickly establish where the actual cause is:

e.g.
(a) is there a live supply to the switch?
(b) is there a switched live supply leaving the switch?
(c) is there a switched live supply reaching the light fitting?
(d) is there a neutral supply connection at the light fitting?
(e) has the lamp been proved to work?
(f) has the lamp holder got a broken / damaged internal connector preventing continuity to the lamp? (very common with screw thread lamp fittings)

The answers to the above checks would identify the reason(s), and which remedial action is required.
 
The lamp works as it's new and I've checked it does work. The lamp fitting I'm going to change if someone can kindly tell me what the technical name is please. Its horizontal pointing. As for the other suggestions I can only say I'm not an electrician and yes I may have to call one in if I replace the lamp fitting and it still doesn't work. I could have called one earlier however I've been quiet ill following a stroke and so financially I'm not in that position.
Thankyou. I have uploaded a pic of the lamp fitting
 

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Hi again. The reason I changed the switch was because the bathroom light stopped working. Changed the bulb still didnt work but the fan worked when switched on so I thought maybe the switch for the light could be faulty. Anyway I still have the problem. Light not working but the fan still works (2 gang switch . One switch for light and 2nd switch for fan)
When I install the bulb (ceiling light and bulb facing horizontally) the bulb in my opinion doesnt stay as in a 9 o''clock position but kind of drops down a bit to 8 o'clock position. Is that just gravity or something loose?

Have you screwed the lamp in far enough?
it's a BC lamp holder. You are unlikely to get one just like that. But it's unlikely the problem, it looks in good condition, the usual fault is heat from the lamp makes the plastic brittle and it falls apart.

You could continue the fault finding by random part replacement and it probably won't fix the issue.

Is there a fan isolator switch? Often the cable to the lamp tees off from there, it could just be a loose connection behind the fan isolator switch.
 
it's a BC lamp holder. You are unlikely to get one just like that. But it's unlikely the problem, it looks in good condition, the usual fault is heat from the lamp makes the plastic brittle and it falls apart.

You could continue the fault finding by random part replacement and it probably won't fix the issue.

Is there a fan isolator switch? Often the cable to the lamp tees off from there, it could just be a loose connection behind the fan isolator switch.
Theres a thin metal heat shield type of cover that shields the electronics behind it. The fan has it's own seperate switch. It can be turned on and off independently of the light.
I'll check the bulb holder and its contacts tomorrow if I get the chance. I did give it a bit of a clean with contact cleaner earlier
 
Some lamps (bulbs) can literally be too short by a few mil and don't make contact, or a pin slightly lower due to a previous lamps contacts being larger.
Thanks . I'll check the contacts tomorrow. I did give it a clean with contact cleaner earlier
 
Thankyou all for your replies. I'll double check the bulb holder and contacts again tomorrow.
I asked my daughter if the lights flickered or acted strangely before it stopped working and she did say it flickered a bit... however, our neighbourhood has had some power issues with neighbours complaining of flickering lights and power.
 
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