Replacing Old Cooktop with Induction

[Gatriel]

Hey all, 

I am hoping for some insights into replacing an ageing electric cooktop (almost 30 years old) with a newer induction range.  I am pretty handy and would greatly prefer to "do it myself" (and don't worry I'm not taking any revenue from you guys - I am an American in Germany and simply needing some insights into 220/240). 

My current cooktop location has three 16amp breakers running to it, each with the traditional blue/brown/yellow+green.  For clarification, the current cooktop is actually three stuck together - each with its own 16 amp breaker and wiring.  

I am wanting to install the Sharp KH-9126CT00-EU: 

http://www.sharphomeappliances.com/cee/products/cooking/hobs/kh-9i26ct00

Relevant is it needs 50 amps at 220v, so my three 16 amp breakers should be adequate (48 amps). 

The wiring diagram for the new cooktop is as follows: 

If you gentlemen could kindly make some suggestions as to how I should properly do this it would be greatly appreciated. 

Kind regards, 

E 

 

[Evans Electric]

Its a bit difficult as I'm not conversant with German  wiring methods .  

Your present layout  sounds like a 16A  breaker for each of the  3 hobs  .        Those breakers may be  all different phases  , giving 400V   as in your R/hand diagram. 

Most hobs / cookers etc  are made to suit the Euro market ,  but your Left /hand diagram shows  two separate supplies  ...which here in the UK  would need a "Linked "circuit breaker  on the mains . 

 

[ProDave]

A picture of your consumer unit showing these 3 circuit breakers might help, and the size of cable that is connected to each.  Oh and the power rating of the new induction hob.

 

[Evans Electric]

To be honest I've never seen  a hob with two separate   single pole   supplies .  In the UK  the local isolator would have to be a 4 pole  switch .   

 

[kerching]

Is this in the UK?

 

[poni]

I am an American in Germany and simply needing some insights into 220/240).

Is this in the UK?

 

[kerching]

Ah....in my defence Mr Merlot has arrived early today ....he rocked up at about 3!!!!!!!!

 

[poni]

Mr Merlot has arrived early today

 

[kerching]

I've got 5 gallons of Home Brew merlot to get through    So I'm set for a couple of weeks  

 

[Andy™]

this sounds like you have 3 seperate supplies of 16a feeding 3 sepate hobs. thats fine. but it appears as though you want to connect all 3 together to feed one. you cannot do this. its not simply a case of 3x 16a MCB's equals a 48a supply

if you had a 3 phase 16a supply you could use it, but not 3 individual supplies

 

[Gatriel]

this sounds like you have 3 seperate supplies of 16a feeding 3 sepate hobs. thats fine. but it appears as though you want to connect all 3 together to feed one. you cannot do this. its not simply a case of 3x 16a MCB's equals a 48a supply

  

if you had a 3 phase 16a supply you could use it, but not 3 individual supplies

This is essentially what I was planning on doing.  I re-checked my breaker box and they're 25 amps not 16 -- but when I metered one of the cables it was 240 volts ... not 400.  

So to recap: 

I'm replacing a 25+ year old Gaggenau unit, which is three 29cm products stuck together.  

I have three separate 25 amp supplies, each of which feeds its own hob.  I wanted to use all three together to feed a single larger hob.  It seems this isn't possible, thus I'm going to have to pay a pro to do his magic in my electrical box and get three phase 400v sent directly to the unit. 

What I am gathering though is this is one of those times I need to get a professional involved, which in this instance I am fine with.  I'll do 95% of my own work but opening up the electrical box or going on the roof -- I'd rather pay someone.  

Oh and the picture in my first post is either/or wiring diagram - not both. 

 

[Evans Electric]

Then you need to know if you have a  3phase   x 400V  supply before making any decisions 

Is this in the UK?

No  the guy is an American in Germany  asking on a UK Forum  .  

 

[Gatriel]

No  the guy is an American in Germany  asking on a UK Forum  .  

What a strange world.  

Although last time I was up in the North-East I was called a "cheeky Colonialist" ... which I very much got a kick out of. 

 

[Evans Electric]

We do live in a strange world ,   certainly strange at the moment .       How are you getting  on in the colonies by the way   ?   I understand this bloke Washington is putting a government together  ...I'm sure  you'll  manage without us  !!      :Salute     It was such a waste of tea though     

Although last time I was up in the North-East I was called a "cheeky Colonialist" ... which I very much got a kick out of. 

You actually understood what they said up there !!!!!     Respect !  

I'm thinking   Its an odd one to us, as in the UK  we  wouldn't get the option  of two supplies to one appliance  , it does occur but  unusual ,  as a fault on one part would leave the rest of the unit still live  .   I guess its possible as long as the local isolator  killed all the  feeds.   

 

[Geoff1946]

Standards vary a lot. A few years ago I spent a working holiday installing a kitchen in a relative's house in France. I did all the woodwork, which was just the same as UK system of flatpacks etc.

The house was newly re-wired, so I connected the tail left for the built in oven, somewhat dubious that there was no local isolator.  (The cable was not connected in the consumer unit.)  When the spark came back to connect up, he checked my terminations to the oven, and did the consumer unit bit. No local switch required.   

Conversely when the gas fitter arrived to connect the hob he insisted of fitting an isolator tap in the cabinet below.   All the gas pipework joints were hard soldered too. No soft solder like UK.

 

[BorisJ]

No local switch is required in the UK either. The fact (nearly) everyone fits them is irreverent.

Hard soldering for plumbing is traditional in France, but again is not a requirement.

 

[Murdoch]

No local switch is required in the UK either. The fact (nearly) everyone fits them is irreverent.

Hum... not sure I agree with that.
 

Most MIs state local isolation AND if the circuit is on a shared RCD not fitting one is a mugs game because when the RCD trips, and it will, the only way then to achieve DP isolation is by disconnecting the neutral inside the fuseboard