niceiec assessment coming closer.

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switch10

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well guys, my niceic assessment is next week. and the nerves are settling in .. only reason im nervous is, i havent actually started much work in the way of domestic electrical as i wated to achieve niceic status first (loads of work booked in though) .

anyway just a few queries,

after a consumer unit change which im being assessed on i have done the relevant testing and filled certificate out (will post pics as soon as i find where ive misplaced my camera), now i had a friend with me when i done these tests who has said that he would turn the main switch off on consumer unit, and also go outside to where my isolator switch is , in cupboard with meter and turn that of awell. is this the correct way or can i just turn the main consumer unit switch of and continue my dead tests? minds starting to go blank with all the revision ive been doing, been some length of timne since i finished all courses etc so need some refreshing . maybe a silly question however better to check than be caught out on assessment.

2nd of all, i have purchased the cal card ext 1, which i use for the couple of tests to prove calibration of my megger, but i know ive got to test more to prove to niceic? also know i have to prove consumer unit is live before isolating, but cant use megger and cant use multi meter, whats the easiest way?

last but not least i have today been to look at a family members job which has been done by a part p electrician , he had a consumer unit replaced and the property has an earth rod installed.

the consumer unit is in a cupboard outside the property, with the rod directly in the ground below this cupboard. however the earth wire from the rod to cupboard has no protection and is simply clipped to the wall, is this ok? my feelings are it should be ran in some form of conduit but thought i would check.

cheers for replies in advance

 
now i had a friend with me when i done these tests who has said that he would turn the main switch off on consumer unit, and also go outside to where my isolator switch is , in cupboard with meter and turn that of awell. is this the correct way or can i just turn the main consumer unit switch of and continue my dead tests?
Just turn the cu main switch off, you can then use the tails/suppliers side of the switch as the known live supply to proove your leads.

Or ask the assessor which switch he would like you to isolate & if he asks you which you think should be used go with the above & tell him why.

2nd of all, i have purchased the cal card ext 1, which i use for the couple of tests to prove calibration of my megger, but i know ive got to test more to prove to niceic?
All they want to see is that you are self calbrating your meter & the cal card does just fine (my assessor said it was ok)

also know i have to prove consumer unit is live before isolating, but cant use megger and cant use multi meter, whats the easiest way?
A voltage indicator that is GS38 approved, as can be obtained from one of the forum sponsors

http://isswww.co.uk/VoltageContinuity-Probes/Martindale/Martindale-VI13700G-Voltage-Indicator/?source=googleps

last but not least i have today been to look at a family members job which has been done by a part p electrician , he had a consumer unit replaced and the property has an earth rod installed.the consumer unit is in a cupboard outside the property, with the rod directly in the ground below this cupboard. however the earth wire from the rod to cupboard has no protection and is simply clipped to the wall, is this ok? my feelings are it should be ran in some form of conduit but thought i would check.
Agreed it looks far better when dropped through conduit into a rod enclosure, but depending on the csa no other protection may be needed if you take a look at table 54.1 that should give some more info.

 
On point 1 if you have installed a sub main from your switch outside he will want to see the test results and may wish to repeat the tests. If just tails and switch is in for convenience then should be ok.

 
By the way good luck! We all start somewhere and although NIC get bad press the engineers do want to pass you.

Got my 7th next month and I will still get nervous!

 
yeah im just a very nervous person around tests,exams etc etc, dont know why but have allways been the same, and i do to much in a day and then get a blank mind, now ive walked away from everything for a few hours i feel so much better. having a day tomorrow where im checking my 2 installations over to make sure all is what it should be ready for the assessment.

at the moment for my safe isolation/means of testing to make sure aknown source is either live or dead i di the following.

first of all check the voltage on a known working socket, then turn the mcb off and re test , this is all done using the voltage on my megger and plugging leads into a socket and see adaptor .

i i then test a further live point on the consumer unit to check the meter is still ok befoe starting my testing.

and i do the usual lock of mcb etc as required.

 
yeah i will buy one, however as i normally have my mft out ready for testing it hasnt really been a problem, but im allways looking for ways to make life easier. cheers

 
yeah i will buy one, however as i normally have my mft out ready for testing it hasnt really been a problem, but im allways looking for ways to make life easier. cheers
you have your MFT out for testing before you even check anything is dead before starting a job!?

 
well generally i get all stock, and equipment of the van ready to use. save multiple trips to the van, as parking in chelt is bad and normally a fair walk to the property, so i have the tester there. as the mft has a voltage indicator why is it so hard to believe that i can use that to check for power? i understand not the best/ possibly correct way but it works, if i try it then isolate and try again and the powers gone, then it works

 
safe isolation is all that you need to prove. This can be done with any instrument.

The procedure is very simple, test on live, indicator shows circuit live, switch off, test on dead, indicator shows no live, test on known live, indicator shows live.

You have now proved that your voltage indicator (multimeter/voltage tester) is working and you have double checked that the circuit is dead and fit to work on.

Proving units have come down a lot in price these days so is always a good buy, but you do not need one your tester will do the job providing you follow the steps above.

 

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